Mitsubishi S4L2 engine Service Manual

[R_Redding]

Hi All

My Schaeff HR16 minidigger has a mitsubishi S4l2 engine and for some time I've been looking for a workshop service manual for it..

Funnily enough one came up on ebay(been waiting ages for one to appear)....just 1/2hr after I'd found this site that has an online one in flash form..

So if anyones after one its here....

Diamond Diesels UK - Technical Diesel Engine Specification Downloads

specifically......

SL


HTH

Rob

 

[Maka]

Montana uses that engine, Volvo and New Holland used it in their mini excavators, Ingersol Rand in their portable environ. generators (GC20 model) I think so it should be pretty easy to find.

Montana dealers have it.

Maka

 

[Richard_S]

Hi Rob, thanks for the link, really helpful as I also have a HR16

Have you got any manuals for the machine itself? I haven't and was wondering if the were any hard to find grease points, on the slewing system in particular.

How do you like the machine? I think they are well built and powerful, the cab is big enough (and I'm 6'4") but the slew could be faster

cheers, Richard

 

[R_Redding]

Hi Richard

No...I dont have a manual either ...and Terex (& Coventry) will not allow me to have a service manual ..as they are trying to put work in BTE plants direction.

That said they (Terex) have answered every technical question I thrown at them over the phone so far..

I have collected service CD's for many HR16 size machines of ebay and the closest so far is the volvo EC30 as it uses the same rexroth controls/pumps etc in a very similar layout....the jcb 80 - 2s and 3s are useful to have aswell. They are all serviced in pretty much the same way..

There are a few hidden nipples(zerks) ...on the left hand side pod (when sat down) ...there is a remote greasing nipple (almost infront of you)and there are two more on the knickmatic ram well below the remote one.


How do I like the machine?...


A lot...very powerful for its size (the overslung boom ram (for less damage) ...Tracks well.. Slew speed seems okay...Although it does have some quirks... They all seem to have noisy-ish slew rings/pinions..tried quite a few..

I've had a few problems with mine so far (at 2000hrs)...but I'm an ex fitter so I can do the work myself..so its really a labour of love...

Ignition switch went (£13.00 for a close replacement on ebay)
Fuel pump (£16 ebay)
Diesel tank syphon tube cracked...had to fab a new one in stainless..real PITA to get at..had to remove the sidepanels/radiators etc..(on the HR14 you just remove the seat)...

Flexible exhaust section broke..(£10 of ebay for 2 meter lenght)..

And I'm currently making new bushes and pins for the kingpost /boom pivot..

I've never had to buy parts from Terex (BTE plant) yet sooooo ...fingers crossed....

Cheers


Rob

 

[Richard_S]

Hi Rob,

Funnily enough, I found that remote grease nipple the other day - I've had the machine over 2 years and never greased it It does the slew gear (if you take the plate off between the tracks you can see up there)

Also I found there is a slew gearbox which takes gear oil (capacity 0.9litres) didn't know that was there till I was looking on the castrol website

Last week the buzzer came on in the cab, it was the coolant temperature sensor faulty, went along to local terex dealer (who sells volvo minis but will get schaeff parts for me), priced the sensor - wait for it - £92 + vat! But then he got a Volvo part from stock - (they use the same engine I think) only £48.

Like you I do all the repairs myself.....

2500hrs on now, few problems so far namely rubber fuel hoses going porous, one bottom roller siezed up, fitted a proper fuel filter, thats all I think.

I only bought it in the first place because I couldn't afford a Kubota, but in alot of ways this is better

Richard.

 

[R_Redding]

Hi Richard

I've had the machine over 2 years and never greased it It does the slew gear (if you take the plate off between the tracks you can see up there)

That remote slew ring greaser and the slew bearing greaser are the ones I pump manically...Its probably an uneconomic repair if either of them wear out... I've never bothered changing the slew motor oil(or track motors ).. I probably should do the slew motor as it contains the brake plates in the oil aswell...and I expect that they'll wear at some point.

priced the sensor - wait for it - £92 + vat! But then he got a Volvo part from stock - (they use the same engine I think) only £48.

Well at least your near a dealer...I'm stuck on the arse end of nowhere........ I rang BTE two weeks ago after the price of bushings and pin for the kingpost/boom....Still havent got back to me yet....It was academic anyway as I'd already turned up and heat treated some new bushes and I've just finished welding and turning the pin ....(Still..it would have been nice to know how much I'm saving).. ..


Diggers....They're an absolute money pit if you can't do most of it yourself.. On this board,Eddie Walker has posted some good tales of woe due to breakages...pins...cylinders...etc...worth hunting for....

fitted a proper fuel filter,

When I first got the digger I thought WTF is that...plastic?.....I'd never seen one like that before...but its a standard one for misubishi plant engines as there's no bleed screw at the injector (as kubotas)...And I dont want to mess with the banjo union to much..

I went to a local Truck supply shop last year and asked if they had any...They had 5 ..and let me have them for £20 as they didnt know what they were for and had been in stock for quite a while ....(1 left now).

I have been looking on ebay for a cartridge filter header and will be changing to them when I get one...


Cheers Rob

 

[Richard_S]

Rob

I found and downloaded a Mitsi SL owners manual in pdf form on the net, but I can't find the site it came from any more one of the useful bits of info in it is that you must disconnect the cab heater hose at the thermostat housing before refilling with coolant. If you dont, it will air lock. Also, the attifreeze must be non amine and silica free (I've used the red stuff thats suitable for newer VW diesels etc)

Well at least your near a dealer

Yep, less than 3 miles away, and very helpful they are too

I have been looking on ebay for a cartridge filter header

Great minds.... thats where mine came from. It takes a popular coopers screw on filter, I actually mounted it in a space near the hydraulic pump, by tapping some threads into the rear weight block. Ive never had to bleed the air, just turn the ignition on and leave for a couple of minutes, the pump noise will slow down when all the air has gone...........

How do you transport yours? I use a home made trailer behind a tractor -



take care, Richard.

 

[R_Redding]

Rob I found and downloaded a Mitsi SL owners manual in pdf form on the net, but I can't find the site it came from any more

I have been able to copy the online one to my hard drive for future reference...they didnt make it easy though...hid *.swfs in hidden directories...

Good to know about the potential for airlocks... When I removed the radiator to do the fuel tank syphon tube I just pulled the top and bottom hoses...and when I reconnected I filled it...ran it...topped it up...ran it ..topped it and after 5 mins the level no longer changed... It runs cool so I'm sure I've managed to avoid an airlock and the cab heaters been on quite a lot recently . I've no idea what the antifreeze was..we buy it in 45 gall drums..but it is for wet liner engines so It should comply..

Rob
It takes a popular coopers screw on filter, I actually mounted it in a space near the hydraulic pump

I've been looking at one of the 296 cartridge fuel filter/water seperators...but the guy wants £30...could be worth it though as my digger is stored in a wooden barn with no heating...so theres the possibility of condensation in the tank if I dont remember to keep it full...

When my syphon tube cracked (a poxy copper affair) mine was sucking 50% air to fuel..and it still ran...so there quite forgiving...although I did put some injector cleaner in afterward that loosened enough crud (from tank to pre injector filter)to block the filter and flow altogether.. (Thats scary when your in the middle of nowhere and the engine stops)..

Rob
How do you transport yours? I use a home made trailer behind a tractor -

I usually ring a local Speedy Hire ...they have a 7ton wagon that it fits on nicely..(9 mile Grimsby to Immingham for £10) Although I s**t myself every time I drive it up the ramps....

I bought mine to use it at my local golf course and its normally just driven to where its needed but a trailer like yours would make things much easier and quicker...


That trailer looks awsome by the way...Do you drive up ramps to it or does it articulate?.
I've got enough steel to fab a body...but where'd you get the wheels and axels..did they come of a tranny van or are they bespoke?..

Your HR16 looks in good condition...paint jobs nice and clean ..and it the right colour...not all white LOL
Mines a 2002 model (in orange as yours) but the first 1800hrs were done by a hire company...so its been maintained well but the paint jobs been scratched to F**k and looks terrible in places (just cosmetic though)..Anyway I'm gonna respray the bad bits soon.. ( I wanted to know the RAL number of the orange..Terex said "Dunno,there white aint they")...


Merry crimbo

Rob

 

[Richard_S]

I've been looking at one of the 296 cartridge fuel filter/water seperators...but the guy wants £30...could be worth it though

Defintitely worth it - you don't get much of an injector pump repair for £30

Here's one - eBay.co.uk: Fuel Filter Assembly unit (item 170062513091 end time 25-Dec-06 21:27:26 GMT)

Do you drive up ramps to it or does it articulate?.

Just drop the trailer to the ground at the front and climb up

but where'd you get the wheels and axels..did they come of a tranny van or are they bespoke?..

the axle is a standard farm trailer one - the wheels are from a 7.5 tonne truck

Mine is ex hire too (Howden hire) I had the choice of 3 when buying and this was the tidiest and had good tracks, we repainted the rear weight and bonnet with paint matched by a local firm

Richard.

 

[R_Redding]

Hi Richard

Just drop the trailer to the ground at the front and climb up

How do you raise the trailer hitch up to the point where it connects to the drawbar...or do you have one of those 3point hitch drawbars that raises up and down???...

I was really thinking about building a trailer like yours...but I'm in the process of falling out with the golf club where my HR16 is stored.. The teddys already been thrown out the pram and I'm about to spit the dummy..

Rob