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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 25
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hello all,
i have been having a problem with my tractor that i can't quite nail down. the traction lock lever is difficult to engage and consequently it seems difficult to disengage. now this never presents a problem unless i am mowing the pastures and choose to pivot on a rear wheel to make a sharp turn by splitting the brakes and spinning around on the braked wheel. when doing so it will make a gear on gear grinding noise. not good. the dealer has looked at this but to no avail - but - it wasn't making the noise until recently. anyone else experience this before? anyone else have trouble engaging the traction lock? Ben |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: P-Town, Upstate New York
Posts: 485
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are you saying that you are trying to make a sharp turn with the traction lock lever(differential lock) engaged. If you are this is a big mistake that can cause potential damage to your rear differentials. When engaging the differential lock you are only suppose to go in a straight line foward or back. When trying to make a turn with it lock in the rear tires are spinning at the same speed and cause gears to bind or slip and can cause damage.
I have used my individual brakes to turn but never with the differential locked. And no noise. To engage the traction lock you are suppose to be stopped and then press it down and drive forward or back slowly to allow it to engage. Hope this helps
__________________
Montana 4340C w/loader, AgroTrend FU78 rear snowblower with hydraulic shute rotation, Horst 48" pallet forks, 3pt. 2-bottom plow, 6ft. bush hog rotarty cutter, 3pt. Woods 7ft back blade, 3pt. cultivator, 5ft 3pt. york rake, 6ft. KK 3pt. Disk, 6' KKII tiller, JD1240 4-row planter, JD494 4-row planter. Future attachments: backhoe, grapple |
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#3 (permalink) | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 25
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Quote:
after re-reading my post i can see where you would interpret this but, no, i am simply saying it is difficult to engage and consequently it is difficult to know if it is DISENGAGED. i live in Florida and my use of the traction lock is very limited. in the times i have needed to use it is when i travel in a straight line in subtle off camber situations or if i get stuck in sugar sand (that happens now and then when things are dry here and i am doing road grading). i view the traction lock like a spool in a drag car - it is only intended for straight line use. Quote:
the big issue for me is there is still some strong ambiguity as to its status of engagement. to diagnose things: if i step on an individual brake pedal and the lock is FULLY engage the engine will stall. conversely, if step on an indivdual brake with the front wheels turned in the proper diection and the lock is FULLY disengaged it will pivot on the locked wheel and not make any noise while doing so. it is those times when i unlock the pedals to pivot and i knowingly have not engaged the pedal in a long time that it makes the noise. but if i engage it and then disengage it seems to go away. on a side note: rolling forward to engage the traction lock i literally have to pound on the "pedal" with the heel of my shoe to make the pedal move ever so slightly. ultimately, what i am asking is how easy is it for other R owners to engage their traction lock? Thank you, Ben |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Placerville, CA
Posts: 174
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I"ve got a 4344HST. To engage the diff lock you step down on that little pedal, don't push it down with your hand. To release it, hook a toe of your boot under it and lift up. Spinning on a locked brake doesn't do a whole lot of good to me; I've tried it and it just feels wrong; like I'm working against something internally.
BTW, my dash light for the diff lock never lights up. Does yours? I need to know if I should contact my dealer. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Placerville, CA
Posts: 174
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Look at the diff lock peddle. There is a symbol on it for the differnetial. Then look at your dash. An identical symbol is on the dash. If it's not lit, then look at it under bright sunlight and you can make out the shape because it's a slightly different shade of black than the rest of the dash. Hope that helps!
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Silver Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: SE Denver
Posts: 219
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Quote:
I can't help with the diff lock, but I will offer that you should never never push an individual brake with the diff lock engaged. Doing this puts 100% of the engine torque on one axle, putting tremendous stress on the differential, outboard gear reduction, and axle shaft. I wouldn't even do this as a diagnostic measure. It is slightly possible that this practice is at least partially responsible for your difficult diff lock engagement now.
__________________
JD 5303 with 522 Loader, CAT I iMatch, Frontier RC1072 Cutter, 7.5' KK Disc Harrow, 7' Road Boss Grader JD 110H with Snow Blade, Mower Deck |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 25
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Quote:
to clarify this is not a "practice" of mine. i have confidently engaged the traction lock four times total - once for diagnostic purposes and twice in an attempt to get unstuck from sugar sand or from an off-camber situation. the fourth time when i got it back from the dealer after their inspection at hour 150. all other diagnostics were performed by the dealer. i have yet to get the traction lock fully engaged a fifth time. the tractor now has 251 hours. the trouble has been there from the start of ownership. i notice the issue at hour #40 when i first engaged the lock - the problem has always been difficult engagement/disengagement. i have owned this tractor since hour #4 Ben |
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