Montana shop manuals

[DocWhiteFox]

This repair has to do with the Montana tractor 3040 transmission and is not in the manual.
This repair has to do with the 3040 or any tractor that is hard to shift.
(((first off anything that is hard to shift take this as a tell tell sign there is something wrong with your clutch))) oil on the clutch or a bad pilot bearing can cause you a entire loss of your F-R shuttle.
Repair your clutch or bearing immediately. You should be able to shift with your tiny pinky...or it will break your shift linkage.

Ok this repair is for the guys who forced it and broke their F-R shiftier.
don't sweat it..ill step you thru it....since even the Montana tractor tech cant do this. (or wouldn't share it)

1: your going to have to remove your clutch box lid all shiftier's have to be removed F-R shifter will fall off since you broke it and the range shifter will remove easily with the roll pin.
pry lid at back slowly do not strike it with chisels a big pry bar and steady force the lid will ease upward after all the bolts are removed.
wiggle your lid up the remaining shifter rods and off.

2: drain your forward oil plug..nice clean pan you may be able to reuse it if you strain it.

3: study your trans so you understand when your in neutral and when in gear.
with your lid off you can shift nearly all gears except reverse by hand.
find and select neutral...your center shaft will roll freely by hand when your in N

4:roll your main gear shaft until you can feel the snap ring come TDC on the leading gear #34 on the print comes to the top dead center. LOCK TRANS IN GEAR.
Now either use 90 degree snap ring pliers or outward snap pliers with paddles that can release this snap ring. its a biggy no cheap tools with survive...use the good stuff.

5: after you release this most forward snap ring on your main shaft your gear 34 should advance forward. use brass as your persuasion...your internal any these gears will chip with steel hammers so use brass round bar to bring this gear forward toward the front of trans. just bring it up 1/4 inch.

6: go to your broken F-R shift shaft item #11 on the print clamp on with vise grips (broken shafts will vary) so grab toward the top.
wiggle the shaft upward by hand out of its machined pocket lift upward 3/4s of a inch and roll the shaft a little more than 180 degrees more like 270.
SHIFT TRANS INTO NEUTRAL AT THIS POINT.

7: bring the broken shift shaft upwards the shift selector ball #7 is roll pinned on to the shaft 11 and it needs to be brought upward until it is centered in the gear 34,,Now hand roll the main shaft so the the shaft and shift selector #7 feeds inside the gear cog between the trans case wall and gear there's only 1/4 inch clearance here and your shift selector will use all of it rch clearance. half of your selector will be in the gear cog and half will be scrapping the trans case wall as it comes out.
This appears to be built this way (and its the only way to remove this without splitting the tractor and removing all the shafts.)
I called a million people and no one came up with this for instructions.
either they were not willing to share or were simply dumbfounded when it told them top removal was possible.

so hopefully if you ever brake this F-R shaft in your 3040 tractor don't sweat it....it is possible to remove this shaft in just hours
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SPLIT THIS TRACTOR FOR THIS SHAFT REMOVAL
BUT YOU WILL UNDERSTAND THE "RCH" THEORY "when your done" THIS WILL BE ALL YOU GET FOR CLEARANCE TO REMOVE YOUR BROKEN SHAFT. (between the case wall and the unemployed side of your main shaft #34 gearcog))....its tight and it scrapes the red paint inside your case but it will not break item #7 selector arm.

It re-installs the same way. its your choice....a few hours my way.... or 40-80 hours to split your tractor and then remove all the shafts from your clutch box. some have told them they junked their tractors because of this shaft..needlessly. Montana tractor.com said this is a 5000 dollar job.

I just laughed.....this is a 200 dollar job people total....! with part.
but make sure your clutch is free....and your tractor shifts with 1 pinky finger when done with the engine running.
(otherwise this shaft will break again.):View attachment 443671

Wow! talk about good timing! I just bought a 2740 with no reverse in it. Can this repair method be done on the 2740 as well?
My maintenance guy at work said he could fix it if it was just a lever and not a sheared gear. Now he's acting unsure and he hasn't even seen it yet.

 

[spokane 1]

Wow! talk about good timing! I just bought a 2740 with no reverse in it. Can this repair method be done on the 2740 as well?
My maintenance guy at work said he could fix it if it was just a lever and not a sheared gear. Now he's acting unsure and he hasn't even seen it yet.

I just looked at your parts explosion.....the 2740 has a different shaft although the case is similar to the 3040....I assume you have a major problem... if you can feel detent's in your F-R shuttle.... detent clicks and stays either way its shifted... this is not a broken shift shaft but rather a eroded gear 9 (reverse idler). or the gear it meets with. 34-37 gears

pull the top off the clutch case...its not that big of a deal ...15-45mins...just keep the dirt out. look at both main shafts for gear erosion (don't quote me but Ive heard Montana tractor didn't do a proper degree hardening job followed by a oil and water cooling on any of their gears and they are soft.)

But if you fire up the motor and stab the clutch down and you hear the gears grind as you shift....(you got oil on your clutch and it has eroded your gear by constant grinding more than likely). reverse has zero syncros so it takes it harder than all the others.

http://partsformontanatractors.com/files/Montana_SParts_2740_32402.pdf

 

[DocWhiteFox]

I just looked at your parts explosion.....the 2740 has a different shaft although the case is similar to the 3040....I assume you have a major problem... if you can feel detent's in your F-R shuttle.... detent clicks and stays either way its shifted... this is not a broken shift shaft but rather a eroded gear 9 (reverse idler). or the gear it meets with. 34-37 gears

pull the top off the clutch case...its not that big of a deal ...15-45mins...just keep the dirt out. look at both main shafts for gear erosion (don't quote me but Ive heard Montana tractor didn't do a proper degree hardening job followed by a oil and water cooling on any of their gears and they are soft.)

But if you fire up the motor and stab the clutch down and you hear the gears grind as you shift....(you got oil on your clutch and it has eroded your gear by constant grinding more than likely). reverse has zero syncros so it takes it harder than all the others.

http://partsformontanatractors.com/files/Montana_SParts_2740_32402.pdf

Ugh, That doesn't sound good. I haven't taken delivery yet. Could you watch this video and tell me if you notice anything? Operator looks hesitant when releasing clutch. And i hear a small grind when he shifts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUqjQ0AT5N4

thanks for any input.

DWF

 

[DocWhiteFox]

I just looked at your parts explosion.....the 2740 has a different shaft although the case is similar to the 3040....I assume you have a major problem... if you can feel detent's in your F-R shuttle.... detent clicks and stays either way its shifted... this is not a broken shift shaft but rather a eroded gear 9 (reverse idler). or the gear it meets with. 34-37 gears

pull the top off the clutch case...its not that big of a deal ...15-45mins...just keep the dirt out. look at both main shafts for gear erosion (don't quote me but Ive heard Montana tractor didn't do a proper degree hardening job followed by a oil and water cooling on any of their gears and they are soft.)

But if you fire up the motor and stab the clutch down and you hear the gears grind as you shift....(you got oil on your clutch and it has eroded your gear by constant grinding more than likely). reverse has zero syncros so it takes it harder than all the others.

http://partsformontanatractors.com/files/Montana_SParts_2740_32402.pdf

a little confused on one of your comments so asking for clarification.
You said: "detent clicks and stays either way its shifted"
I think you are describing the way it should work if working correctly, right?
how will the F-R shifter act if it is in fact a broken shaft? no forward or reverse at all?
How will it act if it's an eroded gear?


Appreciate any help. I haven't taken delivery of the tractor yet and am considering not closing on it based on some probabilities and costs of different repair scenarios.
Also any opinion on what replacing an eroded gear should cost me? I'm not mechanically comfortable enough to do this repair myself.

thanks
DWF

 

[spokane 1]

Watched the video but nothing can be "identified by it" "except the fact the clutch seems well and alive not sticky"
The best thing is ,when you receive the tractor try shifting it with the motor off...find a non binding level location block the tires and shift into forward and then reverse. "Your looking for detent" detent is a spring and ball that locks the inner tranny shaft into a specified gear and holds it there forever until released.
if you fail to feel it click and hold in reverse...."You and I may have more to talk about with the shift rod"
But if this tranny clicks in reverse this means you must pull your lid off for further inspection of the gears. this is a 15-45minute procedure depending on tools and skill but I would suggest a nice dry clean shed or leanto to place the tractor into if your diving into the tranny. Remove the lid slowly from the backside a nice big prybar or screwdriver and about 50-75lbs of pressure slowly delivered to the clutch box lid should lift it from its centering pins. trap the pry bar between the lid and resting on the the next section of your tranny slowly force down.

Ive helped many farmer types who have zero tranny time split their tractor go diving into the beyond........the biggest tools are your "digital camera and explosion prints"
I photograph my way into the strange tranny and triple check my way out....always marking bolts locations and documenting procedure on paper.
its not a bad idea to have maybe 100 photos taken just in disassemble because of the wide variety of bolts syncros ,gears and snap rings. its always best to spread the whole mess out on a refrigerator size box flattened just as your part explosion is documented.
I have also found "there are some people who just shouldn't do this" they haven't the photographic memory nor patients to dive into gears.the type that lose their keys daily should not even consider taking apart a tranny.!!!!!!!!!!!!

Spokane 1

 

[spokane 1]

DWF never buy tractors sight unseen unless you have been given wide parameters on valuation! this could be a 5000 dollar rebuild and parts are very hard to get...we are still in hold pattern on the 3040 its been 2 weeks waiting for parts.

 

[Benny Blue]

spokane 1 and all,

I found and downloaded the parts list for my R3644 from Montana 2844 & Montana 3644 Tractor Part Catalog.

Do you know where to get a copy of a service manual?

Thanks

 

[spokane 1]

spokane 1 and all,

I found and downloaded the parts list for my R3644 from Montana 2844 & Montana 3644 Tractor Part Catalog.

Do you know where to get a copy of a service manual?

Thanks

You know Benny.....I really wouldn't waste 75 bucks on that site "partsformontanatractors" for the manual..I beat the manual and the guy who serves it up on that on my first repair of the Montana 3040 transmission.
How much general mechanic accumulated time to you have in your life? """when you go into strange beast's just photograph your way in and triple check your way out."""""
Just use your life lessons and torque lessons you have learned......its pretty easy to bypass the manual.

for me it was a snap since Ive done tech work on the following case/international/dresser/Yanmar/Hitachi/Versatile

just use this forum and ask us......I'm sure we can figure things out......Ive been wrenching for 40 years.

 

[spokane 1]

Did you take delivery yet DWF?

 

[Benny Blue]

You know Benny.....I really wouldn't waste 75 bucks on that site "partsformontanatractors" for the manual..I beat the manual and the guy who serves it up on that on my first repair of the Montana 3040 transmission.
How much general mechanic accumulated time to you have in your life? """when you go into strange beast's just photograph your way in and triple check your way out."""""
Just use your life lessons and torque lessons you have learned......its pretty easy to bypass the manual.

for me it was a snap since Ive done tech work on the following case/international/dresser/Yanmar/Hitachi/Versatile

just use this forum and ask us......I'm sure we can figure things out......Ive been wrenching for 40 years.

Hahaha... thanks for the confidence boost!
I've done minimal tractor mechanical (read: helper) when i was much younger, 20-25yrs ago or so.
My first car was a hand-me-down from my brother and i started doing things like oil changes, brakes, water-pump/thermostat, starter and alternator, timing belts.... from then on. I've always bought used vehicles and between my brother and I, we have taken care of 98% of any maintenance/repair my vehicles have needed. My brother is a pretty kick a** heavy duty mechanic and doesn't shy away from any car/truck or heavy duty job and loves an excuse to buy a new tool. He just has the nerve to have a full time job so he isn't always available to help :thumbsdown:
One of the bigger jobs i ever took on solo was changing the heater core in a '91 Jetta. When i got it all ripped apart i kinda stepped back and my eyes got pretty wide at the vast amount of parts and screws laying around. Luckily by this time i had picked up pretty good habits (IMO) like threading screws back in their place, when possible, when taking things apart and labeling parts and just noting steps taken when taking things apart.
But i digress.....

The job ahead of me is replacing the internal PTO drive shaft and gear and what ever else i find damaged when i get in there.

Initially i was told that this required splitting the tractor's back end off and started at around 25hr but after a quick call to Magee Farm Equipment in Poplar Bluff, MO the fella there assured me there is no need to split the tractor. You get to the PTO from the top down; starting with the seat and the fuel tank.... so, i'll be out in the garage....

FYI..... Any replies specific to this repair i'm doing would probably be better replied where I started a post on this repair job in the Parts/Repair fourm... http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/347524-montana-r3644-broke-internal-pto.html

or the Montana specific fourm... http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/montana/347429-r3644-broke-pto-looking-repair.html