R3644, Broke the PTO. Looking for repair guidance.

[Benny Blue]

I have an R3644 with a FEL, bucket, quick-attach snowblade, harrows and a 5' Razorback bush cutter.

It has been running great. Used it lots for moving snow last winter (and soon enough, again), pounding in fence posts (borrowed neighbors post pounder) and recently, clearing some brush.....

This weekend I was running the bush cutter. Mostly 1" or so brush, and ended up driving it over some chunks of wood (somewhat rotten logs) that were too big..... (hanging my head, yeah, i know a bush cutter is not meant for busting up logs, rotten or not) and the mower stopped spinning. Switched the PTO off, looked for broken shear bolts, didn't find any, turned the PTO switch back on and i could hear something turning, but the exposed shaft was not moving...

I ended up pulling off the 4 bolts that hold the PTO shaft in place and pulling out the PTO. The shaft that pulls out is roughly 10" long, the "teeth" on the inside of the shaft seemed unharmed, but when i looked inside the hole, i can see another shaft about 4-5" above where the PTO shaft would be and the "teeth" on it were obviously damaged/sheared off. (see attached pic)

Has anyone dealt with this repair before?
I am going to tackle this repair myself and am getting prepped as much as possible. I have a very helpful brother and neighbor who are both heavy duty mechanics and I consider myself relatively capable of handling this with their guidance and i'm hoping for some guidance from the World Wide Web (thats YOU guys!!!! :thumbsup: )

 

[milligjg]

Diamond R Equipment available in Missouri » Diamond R Equipment

They were a Montana dealer. Have a pretty good supply of parts and might offer some repair knowledge (service manual).

 

[Benny Blue]

Thanks. I'll maybe give them a call. I'm trying to find out if there is a "book rate" for a task like this....regarding how much time it takes.

 

[benedwardspi]

I've done a lot of research over the last 3 years for reliable help with my Montana. I've received great mechanical / technical help over the phone from Kenny at Magee Farm Equipment and ordered parts from Becky at Diamond R Equipment. Of the half dozen or so former Montana / TYM / Mahindra dealers and other folks I've called in the past, everyone recommended Kenny as the Montana brain. He also saved me some money by offering to cut himself out as a middle man and had me to order parts directly from Diamond R as that's where he would have gotten what I needed. Very honest folks and Becky at Diamond R will help verify any cross referencing you might have to do if you use similar brand manuals to find parts, etc. Good luck with your repair!

 

[Benny Blue]

Thanks Benedwardspi.

 

[Benny Blue]

Benny can you identify if you have broken shaft #4...looks like there is a rubber plug to pull for exit...that actually looks easy to extract from the rear but yes the top need to be open as well.

Pulling another thread over here to keep the threads on topic...

Spokane1,
Yes, #4 is toast. You can see the spindles are sheared off. Also #9 is damaged. #11 looks good but i'm going to have a machinist friend take a real close look at it. Kenny at Magee Farm Equipment, (he was mentioned above) also mentioned a few other parts that i should be replacing, but i have yet to receive the complete list and quote.

Right now i have the seat off and am working on pulling off the "cover, center" (#5 on pdf pg164). I'm thinking i need to remove the rear fenders as well, just not 100% sure yet???

Sure wish the parts pdf wasn't password locked as i cant print, copy or make any notes on the pdf.

 

[Benny Blue]

 

[spokane 1]

Benny you can defeat the PDF simply with your keyboard and paint program. look on the rh side top of your keyboard the key called (print screen/sysrq) will defeat the pdf
push this button when you have the page up in pdf you want to copy.
then haul the item to MS paint......paste the item on a new paint page you can explode or shrink or edit inside paint then simply hit print.......walla..........PDF is defeated.

I do believe all has to be removed off the top of the tractor 10-20 hours....specially if you have rop's atop. """""USE DIGITAL CAMERA""""" lots of marked coffee cans for bolts.
the reason for using the camera is tranny parts are 2-3 months out from you sitting in Korea.....you will easily forget how to reinstall all of it without photos.
looks like shaft 4 is just shifted backwards tapping carefully the rear bearing will slide backwards then after ample distance has been gained slide the shaft forward back toward home
and remove the shaft out the top when clear of bearings.

ill see what your other numbers go to in a bit.

 

[spokane 1]

so it appears you have unit 11 already extracted. so if visual is OK make sure you manga flux it as well. item 9 extract out the top after shaft 4 has been removed. make sure you note gear direction with camera before you extract it. The print shows they are helical cut.
Im still unclear of the pdf dimensions...hahaaha the size of the items 7-8 in the print shows 11 should not have slipped out. Ok so-much for print correctness.
(this is the reason not to by the repair manual) Korea has no idea of space dimensions or sequence. compared to built in America.

cheer up hey at least you don't have to split this thing.

 

[Benny Blue]

hahaha, i like the "bennys boo boos" note at the top of your pic.
Yeah, regarding the pdf being locked... i thought of taking screen shots of the pages i need and turning them into pdfs for marking.

Yeah, 11 just pulls straight out from the back. Not sure what magna flux is, but i'm sure my heavy-duty mechanic/machinist neighbor does.

I emptied the fuel tank and have that off now... working on "cover, center" (#5 on pdf pg164). don't think the fenders have to come off. When i removed some bolts for taking off the fuel tank, it loosened up the fenders and they pull out a bit, freeing up #5. Just have to manouver it off around all the different leavers....