oil leak - MTD riding lawnmower- model 13aj699h062

[CCWKen]

I can't visualize what you're talking about or even sure of the part you're trying to remove. However; whenever I need to remove stubborn pulleys from a shaft, I use a spit bearing puller. Never use a finger type puller.

Bearing Separator and Puller Set

 

[sox3]

You keep saying "Idler". If your talking about the pulley above the clutch assembly then that is a drive pully for the transmission drive system. those are keyed onto the shaft. most have a stamped key built into the pully assembly. They will rust / seize to the shaft. pullers will usually bend the pully. I used an air hammer to vibrate them off. You can try putting the 5/8 bolt back into the shaft, while pulling on the pully or prying on it smack the head of the bolt to shock it. Once it starts to move it will come off. When re assembling it, I always use never seize to keep that from happening. same issue with slip on rear wheels / hubs.

Hi sox3,
I searched a lot and found this old thread. I've got a same situation / problem and a couple of questions. Background...Scotts L2048 lawn tractor, 20 hp Intek V-twin engine, Model 406777 Type 0128E1, Code 020515G, leaking (fairly heavily) from a bolt-head that attaches the sump to the main block. I've got the parts manual and see what needs to come off / apart in order to replace the sump gasket. But...I got the clutch off kinda easily; "How does the idler pulley come off?"
One picture in the manual just shows the clutch and idler, in another diagram it shows the crankshaft and it has a lengthy key-way slot looking like it extends to the end of the shaft - and I would swear I can feel a slot just above the idler -- yet I cannot seem to get it to budge? The clutch was keyed to the idler. I used "no" puller, just wiggled it while pulling by hand and it popped down.
In summation, is there some simple / easy way to get it off that I am just not seeing? Can any of you experts offer me a shot of advice? Please. I don't have a proper sized puller on hand. I can buy one if I knew which type to get? I surely don't want to bend the idler, so I must be knowledgeable of what I'm attempting to accomplish. And I'm "NOT".

Sorry for no pictures - I have none. The clutch was bolted onto the idler via a 5/8" headed bolt and the wood-ruff key stayed within the clutch when it came off. So - I cannot seem to grasp what any puller is supposed to pull against? If I somehow grasp the top of the belt holder fin, what am I to be pulling against? The bottom shaft of the idler is threaded (that's where the clutch was located) but it would appear to be pulling against itself? Guess I just need someone knowledgeable to school me up a tad if you would Please.
Because right now - I;m lost. Thank you much. Greg

 

[Gregster613]

CCWKen, Thanks for showing me which style of puller I need to acquire. That will surely do the job.

sox3, I called it an Idler because that's what it's listed as in my parts manuel. But, yes it is the pulley which spins the drive system belt and yes again it sure is rusted / seized to the crankshaft. I slathered it with PB blaster last night and while I was at work I talked with a mechanic who gave me a good idea of how to approach this problem. Basically, it has to come off to remove the sump...so if it breaks or bends just replace it. I am going to shop for a proper puller today and then I'll start fighting the rusted parts. I'll get it somehow, someway, someday.
Thanks for the advice. Greg

 

[Gregster613]

Well, Success - I got the idler "pulley" off tonight, with no damage and without buying a new puller. Maybe my soaking it with PB blaster overnight helped - I can't say for sure - I put the long bolt back into the shaft, used a demolition nail pulling wrench to put downward pressure on the pulley while smacking the bolt head with a large hammer and the pulley just slid right down. yea!!
i still am planning on buying an appropriate puller set.
Thanks to CCWKen for pointing me in the correct direction for the correct tool.
Thanks to sox3 and my friend at work, they both easily explained what would work to remove this stubborn item - and were exactly right!
Now it's just a matter of removing the choke, fuel, and governor cable hooks at the end of the cables - without screwing up any adjustments. Motor ran fine, just leaked oil excessively. I'd like to be able to remove the pan, change gaskets and reassemble and hope to be lucky for once.
sox3, on my engine it looks as if the governor shaft comes out with the lower sump? Was that the case for you? It appears to be spring loaded too - are there any tips / tricks to removing the "bolted clamp" that connects it to the carb linkage? I don't want to accidentally mess up some kind of timing or spring pressure that might be required for proper function.
Thanks to all....Greg

 

[Gregster613]

Just thought I'd provide an update. After I got it all apart I got sick for a couple of weeks, thus very delayed at re-assembly. However i got it all back together and it runs just fine, zero oil leaks and I am once again a very happy camper! Thanks to all whom provided me with the courage to go ahead and open up an engine that I'd never been into before. Once apart it was easy to see what was what, what went where and why. I just needed to find the ump to tear it apart and fix it.
Thanks to all, Greg