oil leak - MTD riding lawnmower- model 13aj699h062

[ollidamrd55]

Hi,
I have an oil leak. It is running down the left side of the oil pan(I think that is what it is). Does anyone know if any "stop oil leak" products, such as AT-205 re-seal liquid, would actually work?
Thank you for your quick reply.

 

[Briana03]

Welcome to TractorByNet!

I moved your thread to the MTD forum.

 

[ollidamrd55]

Welcome to TractorByNet!

I moved your thread to the MTD forum.

Thank you...I wasn't sure exactly where to post this question. If someone responds to my question, will it notify me through my email?

 

[RandyT]

You don't say what engine you have on your mower. Most likely a pan gasket that is leaking. Not a hard fix if your have any mechanical ability at all. You will have to remove any clutches, belts, pulleys from the engine so your can remove the engine to remove the sump, and replace the gasket.

The gaskets on engines get brittle over time due to age and heat, as well as other factors. Not unusual for it to blow out a two inch chunk from the gasket.

 

[ollidamrd55]

Engine - 20.5 HP Twin
model - 461777
type - 0137e1

I do have some mechanical ability, but would be afraid to mess with taking an engine "apart". If all I had to do was unscrew bolts and lift the engine off (as a whole unit), and put a gasket back on, then I wouldn't mind doing it. I might not put it back together right, if there is more to it than that. Is there a video somewhere showing me how to do this?
Back to my original question...would a re-seal product work or would it do more damage than good?
Thanks again for any help with this.

 

[RandyT]

There shouldn't be much more than removing the bolts in the sump, popping off the sump, install new gasket and reassembly. Some engines have an oil pump in the pan, but that is not nornally too hard to deal with. Normally when the sump gasket goes on briggs engines, there is normally about a two inch piece that is broken off, and I don't think a add in sealant will help much.

 

[ollidamrd55]

I have attempted to attach a picture of where I believe the oil is coming from. There are 6 bolts that attach the engine to the sump. Then there is two holes, one on each side of the sump that do not have any bolts. I can feel something in the hole on the right side of the sump, but nothing on the left hole. It appears that there might be a bolt coming from the engine part that might be missing on the left side. Is that a possibility? Thanks again for your help.

 

[RandyT]

From my count of looking at the picture of the gasket, it looks like there could be either 7 or 9 bolts. It has been a while since I pulled one of those sumps off. Two of the holes may be alignment pins and not contain bolts. So that means 6 or 8 around the outer perimeter, and the one in the lower middle on the bottom of the sump.

 

[sox3]

There not bad to do if you have some mechanical knowledge. Drain the oil.You will need to remove the pulley / clutch from the shaft, throttle / choke cable, fuel line etc. Un bolt the engine and flip over. remove the sump bolts tap the sump loose and remove, clean up install new gasket. I would replace the crankshaft oil seal too if it was me. Reassemble. Never use a stop leak type additive and never use silicone sealer on these engines in place of gaskets.

 

[Gregster613]

Hi sox3,
I searched a lot and found this old thread. I've got a same situation / problem and a couple of questions. Background...Scotts L2048 lawn tractor, 20 hp Intek V-twin engine, Model 406777 Type 0128E1, Code 020515G, leaking (fairly heavily) from a bolt-head that attaches the sump to the main block. I've got the parts manual and see what needs to come off / apart in order to replace the sump gasket. But...I got the clutch off kinda easily; "How does the idler pulley come off?"
One picture in the manual just shows the clutch and idler, in another diagram it shows the crankshaft and it has a lengthy key-way slot looking like it extends to the end of the shaft - and I would swear I can feel a slot just above the idler -- yet I cannot seem to get it to budge? The clutch was keyed to the idler. I used "no" puller, just wiggled it while pulling by hand and it popped down.
In summation, is there some simple / easy way to get it off that I am just not seeing? Can any of you experts offer me a shot of advice? Please. I don't have a proper sized puller on hand. I can buy one if I knew which type to get? I surely don't want to bend the idler, so I must be knowledgeable of what I'm attempting to accomplish. And I'm "NOT".

Sorry for no pictures - I have none. The clutch was bolted onto the idler via a 5/8" headed bolt and the wood-ruff key stayed within the clutch when it came off. So - I cannot seem to grasp what any puller is supposed to pull against? If I somehow grasp the top of the belt holder fin, what am I to be pulling against? The bottom shaft of the idler is threaded (that's where the clutch was located) but it would appear to be pulling against itself? Guess I just need someone knowledgeable to school me up a tad if you would Please.
Because right now - I;m lost. Thank you much. Greg