I have a 1020 and its the handiest machine I ever owned. A bit tempermental, though. Couple of things to check. Don't have the dealer fix them, you can do it yourself.
1) Check for proper shear pins in the 1st table drive gear. If there is a hard roll pin in there and you have a jam, then you will need a new cast gear. (I was able to weld mine back together.
2) Make sure the push-off feet are free and unbound. They can get bent if you drop the load table and the feet have not fully retracted. Straighten as necessary and grease the runners.
3) Have some spare steel cable on hand in case you have a frayed one in the load rack. Best to change off season, but if it breaks during haying, the tempers will flare.
4) Put a hydraulic cylinder on the bale pickup. single action only is all you need. This is handy in case a bale gets stuck partway across the 1st table. You can nudge it along with a quick flick of the hydraulics.
5) Put a caster wheel on the bale pickup so it can ride the ground. If you bale on hilly or bumpy ground. the chute will be too high and miss a bale or be too low and dig into the ground. Set the newly installed cylinder in float mode and let the caster wheel ride the surface contour.
6). Park a painter pole on the tractor so you can push a bale around on the ground in case its out of line with the bale pickup. Usually is a problem in corners or when the baler flops a bale out of position or on its strings.
7) Use your loader hydraulics to run the pickup cylinder if you have it. Just run an extra extenson from one of the lines to get the job done.
8) Add some counters on the tractor to remind you how full the 2nd table is. I just resorted to using some hose sections on the fender handles. When an 8 bale section is added, I move a marker. When all the markers are used, the machine is full. This will keep you from stuffing too many loads into the stack.
9) Make sure the tires are in good shape and properly aired up. The machine is quite heavy by itself. If the tires are soft, belt separations can be there and whenyou add the hay tonnage, your gonna hear a boom.
10) The machine seems to like grease and oil. This means the chains, load rack slides, hinges and pulleys all need to be ready to rock and roll.
11) Because you will spend a considerable amount of time working the controls stationary and standing near a rotating pto shaft to do it, having the pto guards in place ought to be mandatory. Sure, repairing it means taking them off. Even if they are missing, buy them and put them on.
12) Learn by practicing. Of all the mchine I run, this one is the most dangerous: The load table could trip and crush you, The top hay restrictors will jab you in the head. A rack of hey bales can fall backwards on a down hill run and wack you in the tractor seat. If using a lightweight tractor, the load is so heavy that stopping the machine/tractor combo can be a challenge.
It runs down the road nicely but is a bear to turn and stop at the same time,
Other than these things, I could not live without one !!!
