What oil filter? I'm so confused.

[Hematite]

I'm doing a full service on a Ford 2120 replacing all fluids & filters.
The only place other than the OEM that has the correct listings for this tractor or any other off road equipment is NAPA which carries Wix.

The Wix on-line application catalog lists 2 primary engine oil filters and 1 heavy duty version.
All these Wix filters have a 3/4-16 threaded base.
51348 is the short version rated at 21 microns.
51329 is the long version rated at 32 microns.
A footnote lists the 57515 at 12 microns and for Various HD Equipment as a Glass media version of 51515.
The 51515 filter platform at one time had the most Gas, diesel & lube applications of any filter.
It fit all Ford autos & trucks and many small & large gas & diesel engines including Perkins & Kubota.

The criterion for selecting the correct filter is;
Size to fit application,
Base & thread size, will it fit and seal?
Flow in GPM,
Micron rating,
Dirt holding capacity,
Does it have an internal bypass? If so the bypass setting in PSI,
Burst pressure.
Expected service life in hours or miles.

No doubt it is easier & safer to go to the OEM (maybe?)
As was said the OEM changes vendors, part numbers & pricing.
The OEM (ford) does not make their own filters.

I would trust Wix for consistent quality & application data. They will also stand behind their filters & pay for damage caused by a defective filter.
Try to get an OEM to do that!
Many times the OEM won't warranty a legit mechanical claim!
Use the link below and go to the Wix application website. Find the correct filters for your machines.

WIX Filters : Filter Look-Up


For even more information go to BOB is the OIL GUY

- Bob is the Oil Guy

I've said enough!

You really didn't read post number 15 did you?

 

[Soundguy]

Many here don't read full thread posts.. they just read the original one.. jump to t he end and make a reply..

soundguy

 

[tcreeley]

So is there the right oil to use...I posted earlier this year that the NH dealer told me I didn't need to buy the expensive 134 hydraulic fluid. He pointed to a cheaper priced oil and I asked what the difference was and he said it was the additives that absorbed condensation moisture. The he said that his customers (bigger tractors than my TC30) always bought the cheaped and throwin in a bottle of drygas. He showed me which particular brand and I bought it and the cheaper hydraulic oil. I put it in and have had no problems.
But I always second guess myself. What do you do when the dealer suggests a cheaper way?!

 

[Soundguy]

i run an oil meeting the M2C134 specs inmy ford and NH tractors. been doing it for a while... if I was still in warranty.. I might chip for the name brand oil.. etc..

soundguy

 

[Down South]

I just bought some UTF from TSC. They had 3,

yellow bucket Xtreme on sale 29 from 31 met 134 a,b.

Regular Travelers 44.50 134a,b,c,d and

Travelers "Renew" 49.00 134 a,b,c,d for older tractors, stuff for seals etc.

Since mine is 40 years old.

I could have driven 15 more miles for a different brand( i forget ) yellow bucket for 37.00 134 d, so what is the difference?

I know this is cheap oil and have used it with trans tune to help flush out water.
Dont know about drygas??

Filters are a ballancing act. Cant make too big a change.
But stay away from the cheap brands and Fram.

Dont quote me on this, but i think its like batterys, a very few companys make them all and put everybodys name on them built to there specs.

Ds

 

[Soundguy]

sae same as everybody else..

for a flush oil I'd surely use the 29$ utf.

heck.. for an old tractor, it likely meets your needs with 134 abc rating as it is..

soundguy

 

[FilterPro]

Take a look at the Donaldson P550008

 

[sparc]

There was a comment made in this thread by someone, and it does not matter who, about the drainback feature that some filters have and some don't and how they did not think it was a big deal. But to me having the anti-drainback feature would seem to be important as it helps keep oil up closer to the wear points and bearings so when you start up there is less lag in getting oil where its needed most. Without the anti-drainback every time you start up its like starting after an oil change and you have to wait for all the oil to get pumped out of the pan. Those seconds add up over time. If the original equipment filter had a anti-drainback then I think it should be in any replacement filter.

Same goes for oil filter bypass pressures. The design engineers spec'd a filter with a certain bypass pressure right? Must be a reason so why would you arbitrarily jump from 8 to 20 psi? If the filter media was plugged then every time you start up pressure has to build to >20 psi before it flows through the filter (without being filtered don't forget). Maybe moving to a lower pressure (20 down to 8 for example) would not be detrimental but increasing the bypass pressure can't be good.