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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Jerry/MT's Avatar
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    Default RickB, et al: Heater Hose leaks at lower entry to Cab front pillar-TD95D

    I was going out to load rocks with the TD95D (2007)and noticed a coolant leak from the cab heater hoses where they enter the the front cab pillar on the LH side. On closer examination the leak came from the nearest one and was a pinhole but there are cracks in the hose. (see picture) There are also cracks on the return hose but no leak-yet. The hoses come across the fuel tank top, make a 90 degree turn fwd and two inches later make a 90 degree turn upward into the anti-chafe fitting in the pillar. These two turns in close proximity are what's causing the problem, most likely. A molded hose at this section would probably solve it.
    I called our local NH dealer to see if there was a tech note or service bulletin on this problem, hoping thee was a repair kit for it but no such luck. My plan is to cut the hose and use a heater hose repair fitting and possibly some additiional hose to make the repair on both hoses.
    Any words of wisdom on this repair would be welcome.


    -img_0937-jpg

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Jerry/MT's Avatar
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    Default Re: RickB, et al: Heater Hose leaks at lower entry to Cab front pillar-TD95D

    Here's the fix for the damaged cab heater hose onmy TD95D.

    I used a 5/8" elbow after cutting off the cracked 16mm hose and then used a straight 5/8" connector to splice a new piece of 5/8" heater hose to the hose coming from the engine. Fortunately I didn't have to cut any more off the OEM hose because I would not have been able to use this repair method. There was only about 1 inch of good hose sticking out of the pillar chafe guard to work with. I would have had to open up the top panel on the cab roof and splice a piece in there to be able to push the OEM hose in the pillar down to make the connection.
    I got the parts from my local NAPA store.

    -img_0943-jpg

  3. #3
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
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    Default Re: RickB, et al: Heater Hose leaks at lower entry to Cab front pillar-TD95D

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry/MT View Post
    I was going out to load rocks with the TD95D (2007)and noticed a coolant leak from the cab heater hoses where they enter the the front cab pillar on the LH side. On closer examination the leak came from the nearest one and was a pinhole but there are cracks in the hose. (see picture) There are also cracks on the return hose but no leak-yet. The hoses come across the fuel tank top, make a 90 degree turn fwd and two inches later make a 90 degree turn upward into the anti-chafe fitting in the pillar. These two turns in close proximity are what's causing the problem, most likely. A molded hose at this section would probably solve it.
    I called our local NH dealer to see if there was a tech note or service bulletin on this problem, hoping thee was a repair kit for it but no such luck. My plan is to cut the hose and use a heater hose repair fitting and possibly some additiional hose to make the repair on both hoses.
    Any words of wisdom on this repair would be welcome.


    -img_0937-jpg


    Jerry,

    I have done exactly what you suggested for my son's honda accord heater core hose. I have used something like the link below but in brass. This is rather a temp solution though. I think the vbest thing is to change the entire hose. I have been able to take my tractor hose to a auto part store and eye ball and get as close than I can with the curvatures. I ended up trimming just right to not impede flow. could you not find NH replacement? The bad thing about the splice is where the tear is on the hose and too close to an elbow. Those repair kit works best in a straight section of the rubber hose.

    JC,



    HEATER HOSE REPAIR KIT : Amazon.com : Automotive
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Jerry/MT's Avatar
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    Default Re: RickB, et al: Heater Hose leaks at lower entry to Cab front pillar-TD95D

    The problem with replacing the entire hose is that it's about 10 feet long and you have to remove the roof panels to access the heater core ends and then thread the hoses through the left front cab pillar.
    The root cause of this problem was snaking the hoses acros the top of the fuel tank and then havingthem bend 90 degrees forward and then two inches later having them bend 90 degrees vertically and enter the cab pillar. If the hose section was molded it would not have been twisted and cracked. It doesn't help to expose it to sunlight which also causes it to deteriorate. I had to cut off about three inches of hose to get a good section to spliceand I only had about 1 inch of good hose below the anti chafe fitting and it was difficult to push the elbow on because the hose wanted to go back into the pillar. using the elbow is a stress reliever on the hose. There is another hose behind this one that will be even more difficult to repair if it leaks.

  5. #5
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
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    Default Re: RickB, et al: Heater Hose leaks at lower entry to Cab front pillar-TD95D

    Okay. Got it. any chance of using combination of straight hose section and brass elbows?

    JC,
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Jerry/MT's Avatar
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    Default Re: RickB, et al: Heater Hose leaks at lower entry to Cab front pillar-TD95D

    Yeah that's what I did. I used a straight splice into the hose just over the tank and got enough strain relief to curve the hose into the elbow. I had an extra elbow in case I didn't have a large enough radius of curvature to keep the hose from collapsing in the curve. Then I would have used it to make the fwd curve. As it turned out, I didn't need the 2nd elbow. The elbows and the straight splices were plastic(Delrin?).

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