Ford 4000, what to look for.

[JasG]

A friend of mine would like me to go with him and look at a Ford 4000 diesel. I don't know the year or hours on it, just that he said it looked to be in good shape and hasn't been run for a few years. So I don't even know by that if it will even start. While I'm very familiar with machinery most of my time has been spent on Deere and IH/Farmall of that vintage machinery.

I've seen some that look like Ford 801's and some that are more square and blue in color, don't know which this is. Is there a difference other than sheet metal between the two?

What are the things to look for on these machines as far as weak point or things that go wrong?

 

[SoonerLS]

The '62-'65 4000 is based on the 801; the post-'65 4000s are the ones that are more square and blue, and were an all-new design, sharing not much more than a model number with the previous model. The 801-based 4000s have a 4-cylinder engine, whereas the post-'65 4000s have a larger 3-cylinder; it was originally rated about the same as the 4-cylinder (41hp drawbar/45hp PTO), but later models were rated at 50hp drawbar/55hp PTO. If you're not happy with the power in the engine, you can replace it with later engines, all the way up to late-'90s New Hollands (my dad replaced his 4000's 3-cyl gas mill with the diesel out of what we think was a mid-'90s NH 545D backhoe).

The post-'65 4000s are built heavier than the 801-based model; according to TractorData.com, the lightest post-'65 models weigh nearly 4900lbs (3400 for the 801-based).

I'm not aware of any areas of concern particular to the 4000s; maybe someone else can chime in on that.

 

[JasG]

Thank you for the reply.

 

[sd455dan]

The '62-'65 4000 is based on the 801; the post-'65 4000s are the ones that are more square and blue, and were an all-new design, sharing not much more than a model number with the previous model. The 801-based 4000s have a 4-cylinder engine, whereas the post-'65 4000s have a larger 3-cylinder; it was originally rated about the same as the 4-cylinder (41hp drawbar/45hp PTO), but later models were rated at 50hp drawbar/55hp PTO. If you're not happy with the power in the engine, you can replace it with later engines, all the way up to late-'90s New Hollands (my dad replaced his 4000's 3-cyl gas mill with the diesel out of what we think was a mid-'90s NH 545D backhoe).

The post-'65 4000s are built heavier than the 801-based model; according to TractorData.com, the lightest post-'65 models weigh nearly 4900lbs (3400 for the 801-based).

I'm not aware of any areas of concern particular to the 4000s; maybe someone else can chime in on that.

Might want to go with the 8 speed manual with a live PTO. i have a 3000 with the selecto-speed and should (certain parts break or wear out ) i will be looking for an 8 speed... I would think a 1965 or newer would be a heavier duty and more advanced design than the earlier 4000.

 

[Ultradog MN]

4 cyl 4000 is a good tractor.
3 cyl 4000 is a superb tractor.
Never trust the hours on the tach (on a 3 cyl). Most of them failed early and do not count hours.

 

[SoonerLS]

Might want to go with the 8 speed manual with a live PTO.

My dad's 4000 has the 8-speed (two-range 4-speed) with the hydraulically-actuated live PTO. That PTO setup is handy as a pocket on a shirt--no clutching, no fussing, just pull the lever forward to engage and push it back to disengage; the mechanism does all the rest. You can't beat it for baling. It sure beats the heck out of my 8N's "step on the clutch, lose the PTO and the lift at the same time" setup.

 

[JasG]

Thanks for the input.

For now it's on hold till my friend can get a person to check the tractor over. There seems to be some hydraulic issues and he wants it checked out by a guy who has worked on these tractors.

This one is a newer one with the 8 speed manual and independent PTO. Seemed to run good and started right up. Yet the 3 pt took a while to raise and he was told by a guy who ran it the remotes on the back have no strength. It wouldn't raise his Kuhn rotary rake.

 

[JasG]

My dad's 4000 has the 8-speed (two-range 4-speed) with the hydraulically-actuated live PTO. That PTO setup is handy as a pocket on a shirt--no clutching, no fussing, just pull the lever forward to engage and push it back to disengage; the mechanism does all the rest. You can't beat it for baling. It sure beats the heck out of my 8N's "step on the clutch, lose the PTO and the lift at the same time" setup.

I believe that is an independent PTO, I have always read a live PTO is on tractors with 2 stage clutches. The biggest difference being the independent has it's own clutch and can shift on and off on the fly. With a live the tractor has to stop to turn the PTO on and off, but you can stop the tractor and keep the PTO running. The hydraulic part is what makes it independent.

I have the manual to the tractor we are looking at and it too has them listed this way.

 

[sawtooth]

Yes independent pto on 4000's

 

[SoonerLS]

Yet the 3 pt took a while to raise

That may not necessarily be a bad sign, but it's certainly not normal--my dad's 4000, even in its current condition, has no problem lifting his Deutz-Allis disc mower, and that's one heavy motor scooter.