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| | #1 (permalink) |
| New Member Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 9
| Hi...new to the forum, but some of the info I've found here has been very helpful in our search for a different tractor. We have committed to a used tractor a ways away, and will be picking it up early this week. What are the key things to look for when picking it up to make sure there are no problems? We were told other than the need for new front tires, everything is in fine working order. The tractor we got is a 2000 NH TN75D, with mfwd, cab, FEL from NH, and it has 2550 hours. It also includes a new bale spear along with the bucket and it also has a joystick in the cab for a electric hydraulic converter on the back to run addtional outlets (was used for a batwing mower). Not 100% sure of which tranny it has...it has 2 gear selector levers, and the forward/reverse lever is on the right side of the seat (not on the column) and it requires the clutch to change direction (not electric shift). We got the whole package for $18,000 which we thought was really good while shopping around. Just need to know if there are any key things on this model to look for at pickup that would raise some red flags. Thanks for your help! Mark |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 42
| Mark, I'm not going to be much help but here's what I know. I purchased a 2002 TN75 with 2400 hours about 3 months ago and couldn't be happier with my decision. I'm having a FEL installed by my dealer in the next few weeks. I've been cutting. raking and baling hay and it will do it all without any issues. Mine doesn't have a cab and not mfwd so they two machines aren't exactly the same but I will say that I have not regretted purchasing the NH Blue brand. I have gone through a few dealers and finally found the one that fits my needs and understands what I need. Hopefully you'll find a dealer that fits your needs also and that will make the ownership of any brand a much nicer experience. The only issue with mine was the emergency brake wouldn't work... just needed some lubrication and everything is good to go. No other issues to date and runs as a new machine. Congrats on the new/used machine. |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| New Member Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 9
| Many thanks for the positive reinforcement! Does any owners out there have any issues or problem areas that I should check out when I pick it up?? Dad farmed for 35 years with no cab, no mfwd, and no loader. Sold the dairy cows 7 years ago, and finally decided to upgrade his tired IH 684 utility! Will be quite an improvement over what he has now! I can certainly get some good use out of it too for my angus cattle operation. Can't wait... |
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| | #4 (permalink) | |
| Gold Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Mahaffey, Pa.
Posts: 340
| Quote:
The TN75 has a 4-cylinder turbo while the TN65 has a 3-cylinder normally-aspirated engine. Just take care of it...and it will take care you!! Good luck!!!
__________________ "You can never have enough dogs, you can never have enough guns and you can never have enough tractors!!" | |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Silver Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado
Posts: 156
| If it's not too late, the FEL mount is presumably the same as my TN55S (but different loaders). Look at the mounts closely. At least if it is a NH FEL (32 LA I believe). Mine had two issues: one of the two forward bolts (mid engine area) had been replaced by a bigger bolt, and the bolt directly below it was trying desperately to wear the hole out it was in (which it did a year later). Also, someone had replaced the bolt on the bell housing end of the mount with a 3/4" bolt (same thread pitch, but smaller than the metric bolt). Just pointing out that the early FEL mounts have some history (and why the later mounts are different). I would have them demonstrate the loader and watch the mounts for movement. That may indicate loose hardware. It wasn't particularly cheap to repair (after the repaired holes I added additional steel to the mount and extended it forward on the frame). At ~350-400 # of torque (IIRC), it is hard to confirm tightness, but you can put a wrench on them and see if they are at least somewhat snug. |
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