Buying Advice 1910 value

   / 1910 value #1  

jimmysisson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
2,344
Location
W.Mass
Tractor
1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
Hi all. I'm still trying to find my buddy a brush hogging tractor for his 8 acre open, hilly fields. His Kub L275 is too narrow and tippy, and not quite enough weight or power for the 5' squealer. Found a 1910 with around 500 hours, has been garaged always and has no loader, turf tires. Two problems with it: someone cut off the ROPS so it would fit his garage, and it needs to be glowed winter and summer to start (I have not seen it, but will go look Monday).
The ROPS we can deal with, but does anyone else have a 1910 so cold-blooded? My 2120 starts easily down to 30F w no glowing, grumpily down to 10F, even 0, glowing about 15 seconds. I'm wondering if the 1910 only has one or two operating glow plugs, maybe? Or are all 1910s like this? How do they run when started cold? Thanks for any help.
Jim
 
   / 1910 value #2  
Being at least 30 years old it is possible one or more of the glow plugs may not be working. If it does start and one or more plugs haven't done their job it will run rough until those cylinders warm up. 500 hours in 30 plus years isn't that much. Check to make sure the hour meter is working. Is this a 2 or 4 WD 1910. Sounds like a good find if hours are correct.
 
   / 1910 value #3  
Our '81 1500 needs to be glowed 15-20s in warm weather as well. Not sure if that's common from that era but hasn't been too much of an issue that I've been able to tell.
 
   / 1910 value
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I guess some engines like glowing more than others. I will check power to each, but can I turn them on for a few seconds and then feel each to see if there's heat, without removing to test?
Any other advice about these tractors? This one is front wheel assist. I know they are well liked and considered durable (and I like my slightly larger model) but do they have weaknesses I could notice?
Thanks, all.
Jim
 
   / 1910 value #5  
The 12V power to the plugs is usually supplied by a single wire. I doubt you could tell which ones are working by feel since the heating element is inside the cylinder. You could remove the feed wire and buss bar connecting the plugs together and test each one individually with an ohm meter. Each should have a reading between 1-6 ohms. If they are a dead short or open they are bad.
 
   / 1910 value #6  
In my experience with the 1700 and 1900 tractors, I would not be surprised that the 1910 needs glow in summer and winter. My 1700 is in great mechanical shape and likes some pre-heat even in 90 degree weather. Likewise, the Deere x70 series I have had needed nothing even in the coldest weather. Just a characteristic of that particular engine, I guess.
 
   / 1910 value
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks for the replies. Buddy bought the 1910, around $6k. It looks very clean and original, and kept indoors. Still needs the rops, but I guess the glowing is just the nature of the beast. I didn't test the glow plugs. Glowed 15 seconds, it started right up, though with some black smoke for 5 secs or so.
One odd feature is the throttle lever contains the shut-off; just push it up. There's no detent or indication when you're changing over from low-idle to no-fuel, so when you start up again it's hard to set your engine speed. Just have to get used to it, I guess.
Anyway, here's the little beauty.
2017-01-16 15.49.27.jpg2017-01-16 15.50.56.jpg2017-01-16 rear close.jpg
 
   / 1910 value #8  
One odd feature is the throttle lever contains the shut-off; just push it up. There's no detent or indication when you're changing over from low-idle to no-fuel, so when you start up again it's hard to set your engine speed.

My JD 650 that I purchased used was like that,,,
the throttle was not adjusted correctly since new, the paint on the adjusting nut was original,, and unmarked.

I have the service manual, it described the adjustment,,, I did it.
It is nice having the detent!! :thumbsup:
 
   / 1910 value #9  
My old 1700 was the same way. All the way down to shut off. After a couple of times you will know where to move the throttle to start it at 1200 or so rpm's.
 
   / 1910 value #10  
My old 1700 was the same way. All the way down to shut off. After a couple of times you will know where to move the throttle to start it at 1200 or so rpm's.

Is that right? I've always started my diesels at full throttle, then backed off after the started running.
 
 
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