Ford 1700, any help?

[JC-jetro]

Originally Posted by JB4310

JC, Thanks again for all the help, I am gonna have to sell this thing eventualy but I'm gonna keep it through the hay ride season for the kids, it's just not the same feeling with my John Deere with the shiny plastic hood and Electronic over Hydraulic tranny.
apic of the alternator

Looking good... Glad it worked out. Knowing what we know now.. I'd say it's fair deal

JC

[Soundguy]

Rectifier being bad sounds much more realistic.

as fro the reg.. yep.. lots of regs will fit.

I picke dup an old hitachi alternator for my yanmar 1700 about? 10ys ago, and used a cheapy 10$ chrysler regulator on it... worked perfectly..

basically allt he regs are is a cutout between alt output and battery ( on some models ), and a field control vibrating contact.. either powering the field or grounding it, depending on whether it is A circuit or B circuit type.. some regs also have an overcurrent limiter built in to reduce field current and thus drop charge cuttent.. etc.. Not suprisingly, some genny and alternator regs can be swapped..

soundguy

Originally Posted by JB4310

NO no no, MY fault, no capacitor it was the rectifier they said was fried, along with bad brushes and bearings, and something to do with the rotor I think. The bearings are the only thing that might not have been bad, cause to me it seemed tight with no noticeable play, you could hear some grinding when you spin it but I thought that was the brushes.
Anyway everything appears to be A-OK now, it was a good sign when the battery idiot light came on for test when I turned the key, which it never did before, broke out the digi meter for a more accurate reading, got 14.1 volts at 900 RPM's and 14.7 at 2500 RPM's at the battery, the guy said it should not be over 14.2 volts or I may need a regulator but he didn't say at what RPM so I'm gonna run it for now.
They charged me an extra $20.00 for what I don't know but I'm not complaining since they did jump on it right away, I wasn't completely honest with them when I told them I was broke down in the field. I thought they were giving me a new one as it was so clean when I picked it up today, even painted the pulley, they said they put it in the tank, the case looks brand new.
They called it a Hitachi alternator and a Datsun type regulator, if that means anything.

Sandman, I did have a loose belt and replaced it but that was not the problem.

JC, Thanks again for all the help, I am gonna have to sell this thing eventually but I'm gonna keep it through the hay ride season for the kids, it's just not the same feeling with my John Deere with the shiny plastic hood and Electronic over Hydraulic tranny.

A pic of the alternator

[Texas Blues]

I paid 2,800 for my 1700 with 785 hrs on it. The fenders had seen better days (all bent up and missing the lights) but mechanically sound. 2000 sounds like a great deal.

[kmudpup]

Hey all...got a Ford 1700 which I'm working on now and it works well but needs some work on the loader hydraulics. The loader has no identification numbers on it but the left side is leaking and it looks like a seal is worn. It unscrews at the bottom but I'm a bit nervous about doing this as I don't know what to expect. Anyone have any help in terms of how I would unscrew, check the seal and repair? Also, any steps you can give me to follow to do this would be MOST appreciated.

Thanks!

[Soundguy]

Ok.. a lil more details.. the 'loader' is leaking? where? perhaps a pic with the part circled.. or at least a basic description of the leaking aprt of ther than the 'loader'.???

soundguy

[rambler]

Originally Posted by kmudpup

Hey all...got a Ford 1700 which I'm working on now and it works well but needs some work on the loader hydraulics. The loader has no identification numbers on it but the left side is leaking and it looks like a seal is worn. It unscrews at the bottom but I'm a bit nervous about doing this as I don't know what to expect. Anyone have any help in terms of how I would unscrew, check the seal and repair? Also, any steps you can give me to follow to do this would be MOST appreciated.

Thanks!

You will likely find someone who has been there, done that on your exact model.

HOWEVER you really haven't given us much to go on. I will assume a hyd cylinder is leaking on the left side of an unknown loader - but is it the lift or bucket cyl????

Soundss like it screws apart, but - we just don't know what type of loader or cylinder. Don't know if it is Ford design, or aftermarket. So......

At least a picture would help folks identify the make?

--->Paul

[Texas Blues]

When it rains it pours.....There is alot of good info here on the 1700 charging system. I've been using the heck out of my 1700 since the storm, and yesterday developed a new problem. My battery wouldnt hold a charge, so I put a bigget newer battery in it. I may have caused the problem, but I switched battery while it was running cause I was afraid it wouldnt start without a jump which wouldnt have been easy where it was sitting. Anyhow, since then, my charge light comes on at low idle and is only producing about 11 volts. Only when the rpms are around 2000 or higher will the light go out. I havent checked the voltage yet at those high rpms yet but will. Assuming my belt didnt suddenly come loose (which it doesnt feel like) I think I burned out one of those components. Can one of those components get to the point whare they will only work at a high rpm? Thanks, Tex

[JC-jetro]

Originally Posted by Texas Blues

When it rains it pours.....There is alot of good info here on the 1700 charging system. I've been using the heck out of my 1700 since the storm, and yesterday developed a new problem. My battery wouldnt hold a charge, so I put a bigget newer battery in it. I may have caused the problem, but I switched battery while it was running cause I was afraid it wouldnt start without a jump which wouldnt have been easy where it was sitting. Anyhow, since then, my charge light comes on at low idle and is only producing about 11 volts. Only when the rpms are around 2000 or higher will the light go out. I havent checked the voltage yet at those high rpms yet but will. Assuming my belt didnt suddenly come loose (which it doesnt feel like) I think I burned out one of those components. Can one of those components get to the point whare they will only work at a high rpm? Thanks, Tex

Tex,

There is a good chance it might be the regulator rather than the alternator from your description . I remember on one post that Soundguy said he used an automotive external regulator from NAPA and it worked great. there are around $20 tops. almost all the new regulator are solid state. I'd make sure all the connection are clean and tight. The regulator is behind the cross member as you see it in the pic. You need to remove the fuel tank which is quite simple by removing two nuts.

JC,


Ps. can't see how you could dork it up just by only replacing the battery, you do not even have an ignition system on diesel. How did you connect the battery cable? did anything spark? wondered if there was some sort of short on part of your resulator.

[rambler]

Running, it should be worth $2000.

Good machine, replaced by the 1710, then the 1720, now the what - 27? 33?

Some parts are getting harder to find, but mostly no problem. The machine is made in Japan, they are good.

The knock on yours is that it is 2wd - too light a machine, not good traction with 2wd, no good for a loader.

--->Paul

[Soundguy]

There are plenty of 2wd loader machines out there that beat a shovel and wheel barrow all day long!

-ANY- person that says 2wd is no good as a loader tractor simply has not shoveled and hand carted enough material in his or her lifetime to see the quantum leap of difference between doing it by hand.. and doing it with a machine that may not be awesome.. but in most cases is adequate..

soundguy