Non-smoking section

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Scott1700

New member
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
4
Location
GA
Tractor
Ford 1700 4x4
My 1700 has moved to the NS section. After the installation of the gold plated pistons and rings, new rod brngs, and valve job on the cyl head it smokes no more!!!! I know the pistons are gold plated-- my wallet told me!
It cranks right up and once the cyls get warm it does not smoke at all. It did look like I was spraying for mosquitoes. After shut down if you let it sit for approx 30 mins it fires up with no glow-plug usage. I also picked up an IT manual and an upright muffler to replace the pos that someone had installed earlier. I also found aftermarket numbers for the oil press switch and oil filter. I may install a buzzer for the oil press switch, since I have a habit of leaving the key on after shutting it off. I'm not used to a manual shut off. The buzzer would also alert if the oil press dropped while running. I took photos of the assembly since JC asked.I will try to get them posted. I have about 30 photos if anyone wants them-- too much for here. It is a very easy job to tackle. Takes about 1.5 hrs to tear it apart. Thanks for all the help, hope I can return the favor. I just thought of something to add- mine has an aftermarket alternator on it from Adv or AZ on it just in case someone needs to replace one without going to NH.
 
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Scott,

I missed this entirely :) I have to confess I did not relate the title with the
repair work on your 1700:eek: I'm glad it all worked out minus a few $$ in your pocket. I would like to see those pics. I hope I don't have to duplicate your work:( but you never know. did you work the rods from the bottom (oil pan) after you removed the head? I have not seen any piston sleeve on the parts break down (like Ford 8n)... is that correct ? and last question Could you tell if the head is interference or non interference.. in other words can the piston hit any of the valves if one screws up valve adjustment?

Thanks,
JC:)
 
   / Non-smoking section
  • Thread Starter
#3  
JC yea just drop the pan, I had to remove front diff, snatch the head off and push 'em up from the bottom. There are no sleeves. You can purchase oversized pistons--.020, .040. My ring gaps gauged right at the max. There are no combustion chambers in the head. The head is flat.The valves are right on bottom and the comb chamber is the top of the piston. If one tightend the valves too tight they would hit. It was a very easy job to do-- drain the coolant, drain the oil, take off breather assy, injector lines, glow plug wires, valve cover and head bolts and snatch head off. Rotate crank so you can get to rod bolts and push up! You don't have to remove water pump or alt. Hopefully you will not have to do it. The guy at the tractor place said fix it and sell it. Parts are hard to get!! For now I'll keep on fixing. I have to make some FEL repairs but it's just to fix worn out pivot holes.
 
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Scott1700 said:
JC yea just drop the pan, I had to remove front diff, snatch the head off and push 'em up from the bottom. There are no sleeves. You can purchase oversized pistons--.020, .040. My ring gaps gauged right at the max. There are no combustion chambers in the head. The head is flat.The valves are right on bottom and the comb chamber is the top of the piston. If one tightend the valves too tight they would hit. It was a very easy job to do-- drain the coolant, drain the oil, take off breather assy, injector lines, glow plug wires, valve cover and head bolts and snatch head off. Rotate crank so you can get to rod bolts and push up! You don't have to remove water pump or alt. Hopefully you will not have to do it. The guy at the tractor place said fix it and sell it. Parts are hard to get!! For now I'll keep on fixing. I have to make some FEL repairs but it's just to fix worn out pivot holes.

Scott,

Thanks for the info. Amen to "not having do the repair Job" in the first place. I have to cross all the tees and dot all the eyes. it should take me 4 times as much as it takes you to do it... seems pretty doable one man job. I hope the repair last you a long time. It just amazes me why they don't design the heads non-interference.. they may loose just a bit of compression efficiency.. that's all.


JC,:)
 
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Scott has done a great job doing the repair. Chime in if you are interested in seeing pictorial details. I can post them if Scott is agreeable.

JC,
 
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JC-
Thanks for the info. I just found a Ford 1000 in my back yard and am in the process of the teardown. I'm looking for part to see if this would be worth fixing. Pistons have seized and are mot budging. Any parts houses you know that have a reliable stock of parts on hand?
Need some random things and who knows what I will find inside.
 
   / Non-smoking section #9  
JC-
Thanks for the info. I just found a Ford 1000 in my back yard and am in the process of the teardown. I'm looking for part to see if this would be worth fixing. Pistons have seized and are mot budging. Any parts houses you know that have a reliable stock of parts on hand?
Need some random things and who knows what I will find inside.

Copper,

I really don't know a good place other than Wenger of Meyers town and actually never bought anything from them. Wengers Of Myerstown - Farm Equipment, Agriculture Equipment, Tractor Parts, Construction Equipment, Construction Parts. I have been lucky on my rig as it was in excellent shape and other than minor stuff on things consumable never changed anything major. I don't know if it is financially feasible to do it as parts will be difficult to find and will be expensive. My suggestions is to slowly and carefully take it part taking care not to damage it anymore than it is already. With the engine intact. I might take the top off to look at head, valve and such to see in what shape they are. I'd take the pan off and look at crankshaft fort tell tale signs. Loosen the rods, look at friction bearing and then try to withdraw piston and rod from the bottom. Maybe pistons are okay and rings bad. After that investigation I'd catalog what i would be needing and price tag. You might decide parting it out might be a better options. You might be able to find some replacement part that might not necessarly be Shibaura to fix your rig. Maybe a re bore and new piston and ring would be better than original OEM.

JC,
 
 
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