Ford 1920 clutch Help needed

[JC-jetro]

Originally Posted by MIkeWard

JC thanks for the reply and info.

I got the bearing off and cleaned up the part it's mounted to.
What a difference!

I wonder if this tractor was in a flood. I didn't mention it but when I removed the outer covering around the 4wd shaft there was some water in the end where it goes into the front axle. That and the amount of rust in the clutch housing- and look at the clutch rust its a wonder the clutch was working at all.

I know Soundguy and others were talking about UTF fluid and someone mentioned that used hydraulic fluid could be used as a rust inhibitor- spraying it inside car doors. I'm thinking os wiping the inside of the clutch housing with it.

Any opinions on this?

Hey Mike,

looking good , getting there ..slowly but surely. I tend to agree with you about the flooding. This amount of rust is out of normal, even if the tractor sat outside you'll get some condensation in the rear differential since the transmission oil and hyd system is a vented (atmospheric) system and is not sealed, if some gaskets here and there dry rotted and allowed rain water to creep in is also another way to get a lot of moisture in. The rust in the inside looks so uniform and causes me to agree with your suspicion. Did you any sign of silt or dirt caked up her and there inside. The way utf or any other oil protect the metal is because of " oil film" or basically a very thin layer of oil that kind of dries our or stays on the metal like a thin film. what this does obviously keep the oxygen out keeping the rust or oxidation in check. if you cover the rust with the oil you still keep the air out. I knew couple of old mechanic that liked to spray a very thin layer of diesel on engine thinking it kind of dries out to touch in time but protect the engine and nuts and bolt from rusting. my preference is to mount a brass metal circular brush on my drill to dry clean most of the rust out first brush and then use a paint brush to coat the metal with used utf or new oil and have a rag to take the excess off and keep it good and well rubbed in.

JC,

[MIkeWard]

JC
I will be cleaning up with a wire brushes on a grinder and a drill.
The part I cleaned for the throw-out bearing was done by spraying with liquid wrench and then wire brushing. Seemed to work pretty well! When done I'll rub on a coat of UTF.
The more I think about it the NH dealer I bought this from really pulled one over on me!

Mike

[Willl]

Learnt me something new about throw-out bearings.

Wow, that is alot of rust. Wire brush and anti-rust paint ?

Did ya use a alignment tool during assembly ?

[MIkeWard]

Hi Willl
I was going to buy an alignment tool BUT
When I was splitting the tractor the main shaft to the tranny was pulled out of the tranny and stayed in the pilot bearing.
When the rear half was about 1 and a half feet away from the front there was still a shaft that appeared to be connecting them=

What the heck???
When I touched it it was loose so I pulled the rear a little further and I could take the shaft out- Just a little rust on it will clean and grease it up
BUT
Now I had an alignment tool that I knew would fit exactly in the pilot bearing. I was very careful not to put any pressure on it and had a big chunk of pine to help hold the weight of the clutch till I got the bolt in.

You can see the wood under the old clutch as I was taking it out.

Mike

[Willl]

So you used the connecting shaft as a alignment tool. Cool, that should work just fine.

One of my first clutch jobs I omitted that alignment part. Never ever will that happen again. That's a lesson one never forgets.

[MIkeWard]

Hi All.
Got everything put together!
No parts left over either.
Just waiting for the hydraulic filter ordered from fleet filter to be delivered.
Then I'll refill with Traveler UTF fluid I got at TSC. meets Ford spec 134D.
Sure hope it starts.
By the way the clutch works. We rolledthe tractorand when clutch was released it engaged and stopped.

Mike

[JC-jetro]

Originally Posted by MIkeWard

Hi All.
Got everything put together!
No parts left over either.
Just waiting for the hydraulic filter ordered from fleet filter to be delivered.
Then I'll refill with Traveler UTF fluid I got at TSC. meets Ford spec 134D.
Sure hope it starts.
By the way the clutch works. We rolledthe tractorand when clutch was released it engaged and stopped.

Mike

Good to hear Mike. I'm glad dry testing the clutch work. got to check it under the load, may be a bit of adjustment and you're good to go for another 20 years.

JC,

[MIkeWard]

I know I haven't replied in a while. This is how things turned out...

Got my Hyd filter installed it and added UTF fluid
7.7 gallons to the tranny, rear axel and HYD res.
Filled power steering res with fluid.
Put all the tin on around the steering wheel plugging in electrical snap fittings. Instrument panel in .
Finally everything was back together!!!

Yeah.

Turned the key only the glow plug light went on
Nothing else no headlights gauges nothing.

Took everything apart again

Cleaned battery terminals. Got spray electrical contact cleaner from Radio Shack and went to each snap fitting and cleaned both male and female ends.
Put everything back together again
Turned key and
NOTHING!!!
Not even the glow plug light. That worked before
It was like the battery was not connected.
Now I'm thinking I have to winch this on the trailer and bring it to the FNH dealer (1 hr traveling time). I'm in over my head.

Took everything apart again I was actually getting good at it now.
As I was unplugging the the 2 pigtail snap fitting from the ignition switch to my horror the switch split in half with all the internal parts dropping to the ground.
Called dealer he had a switch in stock went there picked it up
Over $100.00 wow. I was planning to put in a NAPA switch which I read about here in a few different threads. BUT with all the other problems Felt the dealer would not apprectate a non NH switch if he had to troubleshoot.

I had used my elec meter and there was voltage all the way up to the switch. I assumed some hidden fuse or connection was bad.

Got home put in the new switch- without even installing tins just sitting on the fuel tank.

Turned key to left All GAUGES CAME ON!!

Turned to the right STARTED!!!

Boy did I have a smile on my face.

Assembled everything the next day
Put on the loader and the BH and I'm in business.
What a difference in the clutch.

MIke

By the way the power steering and hydraulics self-bled all the air out of the lines and everything worked just fine

[MIkeWard]

I would like to thank JC-jetro and TCBoomer for their advice
Rick B thanks a lot for the info on Hy-capacity clutches.

Messicks was great to deal with and honored their outdated clutch web price. After I bought it the price on the web went up $170.00.

This web site and the collective knowledge performs such a useful service to so many people. I am glad to be able to tap into it.

MIke

[JC-jetro]

Originally Posted by MIkeWard

I would like to thank JC-jetro and TCBoomer for their advice
Rick B thanks a lot for the info on Hy-capacity clutches.

Messicks was great to deal with and honored their outdated clutch web price. After I bought it the price on the web went up $170.00.

This web site and the collective knowledge performs such a useful service to so many people. I am glad to be able to tap into it.

MIke

Hey Mike,

Reporting from sunny Portland on our way back to KC. I had to get my TBN fix for the day. Glad all worked out, it is such a pleasure to tackle a relatively complex procedure with perfect result. I bit you you can do the next one with your eyes closed. Practice makes it perfect. Great pics also, we all enjoy seeing relevant pics, a picture is worth a thousand words. I reckon it'll be 20 some years before you entertain doing the same job again.


JC,