MIkeWard said:
JC,
Thanks for the info.
Not sure if of the PTO live or not. How can I tell?
This is my first time using or owning a tractor and I have a lot to learn.
I think I'll try to replace the clutch.
I have a 20x20 blacktop area out of the way.
Are there any special tool that I'll need?
Mike
Mike,
There is a ton of stuff abut PTO live or otherwise in this forum. Do use the search engine and limit the search to type model or general and you'll find much knowledge base there. Basically , in live PTO rotation of PTO is independent of the rotation of wheels.(i.e , tractor not moving and can have PTO running). There are a some twist of flavor and some terminology that is used interchangeably between manufacturer's also. Most live PTO action is achieved by 2 clutch disk and two pressure plate that are sandwiched together as an assembly. The clutch disk are splined a bit differently size wise and are couple to two shaft on solid (inner) and one round( outer) on of these shafts runs pto clutch disk and the other transmission clutch disk. Now, to find which you have, normally you only need to press clutch pedal half way and that disengages transmission so you can shift. if you push all the way that causes the second pressure plate to release along with PTO clutch. the way I suggest you to find out is go to a safe spot after you started the tractor, turn the pto on how you normally do, (may be like, gear in neutral, tractor running, clutch all the way pushed in, engage pto lever and let the clutch go) in that fix , the tractor is stationary, pto should be turning. while you look at the pto shaft start pushing the clutch plate half way and try to engage forward gear, if no grinding and tractor moves while pto is turning then you have a live pto. if you have to push all the way then your have transmission driven pto, (i.e, one shaft that runs both pto and transmission and one clutch plate).
As far as replacement, I have done several rear wheel drive and couple of front wheel drive clutch replacement while I was a poor college kid but have never done it on tractors. I find tractor specially the size of 1700 and 1900 to be much easier. trying to remove the transmission while car supported on stands without proper transmission jack is a pain you know where. a flat spot is needed as you will separate the tractor at the clutch housing, to do that all the connecting hydraulic, electrical linkages should be removed. if you do not have a loader it is quite easy. Take many detailed pic before you start to help you put thing together and if you want you can mark them all with label just before you separate thing. A com e along and another vehicle can be use to slowly separate the two ends after you have removed all the connecting bolts and nuts. You want to make sure the tractor does not flip. if I were to do it I'd put my carry all on the tractor before I start lower to the point that can keep the tractor in perfect level position and chock the back wheel. with th help of jack stand , floor top jack on wheel I manage pulling apart of the front section. I move it enough to have access to clutch assembly , slowly remove the bolt in some uniform manner to avoid twisting the pressure plate. single clutch and I see if I need to resurface the pressure plate or reuse or replace entirely. if live PTO you'll need to remove the whole assembly. I do use aligning toll to align he spline with the transmission/pto shaft input shaft. Put both end together and torque to spec and it is a done deal for next 25years.
JC,
Ps. no special tool is necessary as long as you have accumulated normal tool stuff, a good 1/2 socket with 1/2 breaker bar is necessary. Jack stands and floor jack is also a must.
