1630 with broke block/loader

   / 1630 with broke block/loader #1  

Soundguy

Old Timer
Joined
Mar 11, 2002
Messages
52,238
Location
Central florida
Tractor
RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
we brought in a 1630 into our shop.. has a loader and a broken block now.. loader mounts to a group of 4 holes on either side of the front of the block.. the holes have a small raised area where the bolts go it.. maybee 1/4" raised area. loader was dealer installed

here's the deal.. looks like this happened because the dealer used TOO SHORT of bolts.. in fact.. there are 4 bolts oneach side.. looks like the dealer used 3 short bolts and 1 long bolt. the long bolt was used in the forward lower hole, and the 3 shorter bolts were used inthe back lower, and both upper holes.

This is what happened.. the 3 short bolts were just barely into the block.. the 3 bolts on each side broke out a 'ring' oc block material... that raised lip I told you about.. that came off with each bolt.. plus maybee another single thread onthe block.. IE.. the bolt was only in about 2-3 threads.. the holes were plenty deep.. looks like another 1.5" - 2" of bolt could have gone in there.. just like the lower forward holes where a long bolt was used... here, the bolt broke out the bottom of the block in a pie wedge shape at each of the 2 bolts, with the top of the bolt hole as the center point of the pie wedge.

The other 3 holes on each side did not breach the block, and that lower forward hole that was damaged is not into a water or an oil area of the block, we are going to clean it up, and braze that wedge back in on each side and then polish it so the oil pan will mate up.. and the laoder is going on another identical tractor that has no loader.

Nothing else uses these holes.. so we figure it should be fine. no water has shown up in the oil.. or oil in the water since the damage occured.. though oil does dribble out the cracked areas when running.

Anyone see a problem with brazing her up and making a new oil pan surface and buttoning her back up?

good job dealership mechanics! you saved 1 $ buy buying 6 short bolts instead of 6 longer botls.. and cost a loader tractor!

soundguy
 
   / 1630 with broke block/loader #2  
Howdy,

Since it appears that block did not develop a hairline crack or something to cause mixing of the fluid (water and oil) probably will be okay. I think this work is more of cosmetic if you are not planning to put the loader back in. Can you grind the raised surface in a manner to accept big flat washer. Probably I would not braze it, thinking I might change the temper. I would just fill the bolt holes up with right size bolt (long enough) along with some flat washer to close things up. I probably use some blue RTV type liq gasket to make sure it is sealed tight, I may cover up all with paint when I'm done.

JC,

PS. I re read your post soundguy mentioning some oil leakage. If the oil is coming out of the bolt hole, I suppose bolt smeared with RTV will stop a small leak, More than than and outside the bolt hole I think brazing/welding might be a cure. Is the leakage a 'workable dribble"?
 
   / 1630 with broke block/loader
  • Thread Starter
#3  
The lower bolt holes are about 3/8 of n inch from the bottom of the block/oil pan gasket area.. A bad design IMHO.. not enough meat there.. since the forward bolt on each side broke out, down, there is about a 2.5" long x 1/4" piece of block missing where the oil pan would have ridden... that is the area we are going to braze up.. IE.. bring the block back to flat for the oil pan to seal.. no oil out the bolt holes themselves.

soundguy
 
   / 1630 with broke block/loader #4  
Soundguy said:
The lower bolt holes are about 3/8 of n inch from the bottom of the block/oil pan gasket area.. A bad design IMHO.. not enough meat there.. since the forward bolt on each side broke out, down, there is about a 2.5" long x 1/4" piece of block missing where the oil pan would have ridden... that is the area we are going to braze up.. IE.. bring the block back to flat for the oil pan to seal.. no oil out the bolt holes themselves.

soundguy

Oh ... Okay, so there purpose of the weld is to close the gap between block and the pan. Is there enough lip between block and the pan that a guy could drop the pan some and add some flat thick piece of neoprene as gasketing medium to stop the leak?

JC,
 
   / 1630 with broke block/loader #5  
Chris,
Do you have any pictures of the damage?
 
   / 1630 with broke block/loader
  • Thread Starter
#6  
JC-jetro said:
Oh ... Okay, so there purpose of the weld is to close the gap between block and the pan. Is there enough lip between block and the pan that a guy could drop the pan some and add some flat thick piece of neoprene as gasketing medium to stop the leak?

JC,

No lip at all, there is a 1/4" gap a tthe high point of the break where you could stick a screwdriver into the oil pan thru the missing part of the block.

Soundguy
 
   / 1630 with broke block/loader
  • Thread Starter
#7  
JerryG said:
Chris,
Do you have any pictures of the damage?

Didn't have my camera at work today.. but you can bet i will take it on tuesday!

soundguy
 
   / 1630 with broke block/loader #8  
just a general rule of thumb, but typically for thread engagement, you want 1.5x the thread diameter for depth of thread engagement, plus additional clearance at the bottom for the transition to the non tapped portion of the drilled bore.
 
   / 1630 with broke block/loader
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Yep.. dealer really flubbed this one. I'm surprised the single bolt in each side plus the 1-3 threads onthe other 6 bolts held the laoder on so long.. this thing has been used pretty good.

soundguy
 
 
Top