Oil & Fuel Transmission / Differential / Hydraulic Oil for NAA

[Soundguy]

If your intersump seals are shot.. they need repair.. not bandaids, at least for long term anyway.

A typical reseal and regasket of a ford hundred series lift system is a decently EASY job.. NH sells the 10$ kit with paper top cover gasket, and the handfull of orings that go unde r the cover and the cyl, plus the cyl oring and backup washer. Not even an afternoon job.. can be done in a few hours if you don't mess around and have average tools and can lift 80#.

I was -shocked- at how easy the hundred series was to get apart ( naa just a wee bit harder ). I'd worked on N hyds plenty before, and helped re-oring a buddies hundred series.. but hadn't pulled one from scratch...again.. was shocked at how easy it was.

when the kit is 10$ and the labor is a couple hours.. and your lift cyl has a bad leak.. there's no excuse to pour gear oil into the hydraulic sump.

I don't doubt that you have seen systems so worn that thicker oil does help.. no argument there... Some people thing tractors are maintenance free...

soundguy

I like the oil bath air cleaners also----I guess what I can't get you guys to understand is ----A customer goes to an Auto Supply House and says I need rear end oil for my tractor---The counter attendant---Saleman etc----gives them a bucket of straight 90 wt or sometimes 140w---they pour it in their tractor and the lift quits working because the oil has mixed with the hyd sump due to the poor seals-----The new Gl5 oils seem to have better heat additives than the cheaper UTFs?? Most of the problems we have had with gear oil is when they pour 140 in the hyd sump and some 90w in cold weather ---never seen any damage to the pump (haven't worked on many of the old vane pumps mostly piston pumps) or the o-ring on the lift piston just sticking of the unload valve---I understand your point and your position----80w90 GL5 works for us here and we will comtinue to use it to make our friends productive citizen's---They mostly bushhog and feed hay with those tractors around here now---not much plowing are gardening use. Maybe when those tractors where nearly new and there was little wear in them the gear oil might have made a difference----Most of the tractors that we see the owner does not want to spend much money on the lift system and by using 80w90GL5 the lift works better for carrying those heavy bushhogs that they use ---I agree that a lift system rebuilt and resealed will work well with UTF's---most everyday users in our part of the country do not want to spend the money to fix it right!!! poor people have poor ways but the grass must be cut---it is called service!!!!!

 

[NormanMarkel]

I have a 7-25 Sellick Teleporter. I called Sellick who does not service our machine anymore (too old) and Minnparr out of Minnesota. Minnparr told me to use Dextron 3 for my automatic transmission. The problem is, the transfluid that is in it is not red color, it is brown in color. So, he told me for a 4 speed Teleporter to use 80w90ep. Sellick called me back and told me to use M2C134D. So, which one do I use?

 

[Soundguy]

welcome to TBN

you probably should have started your very own post with this NEW question instead of tagging onto one 5 years old!!

The M2c134 spec oil ( most UTF oils meet this spec ) is a combination transmission, gear, hyd oil.

Many powershift trannies use this.

givent he WIDE range of options you were given. I'd go with the UTF oil.

 

[larslair]

I just want to thank you for all your advice on here re: NAA fluids. I have purchased three separate manuals application less to the n series (including an NAA operator's manual, an NAA shop manual, etc) and NONE of them list what fluids to use. Thanks again...You were VERY useful!). Larry.

welcome to TBN

you probably should have started your very own post with this NEW question instead of tagging onto one 5 years old!!

The M2c134 spec oil ( most UTF oils meet this spec ) is a combination transmission, gear, hyd oil.

Many powershift trannies use this.

givent he WIDE range of options you were given. I'd go with the UTF oil.

 

[Soundguy]

actually at least one should have listed M2C41 oil and M4864 but those old specs will cross to M2C134

 

[jackus]

Well I been running 303 oil in the hydraulics and 80-90 gear oil in the trans and rear end seems to work very well now the brand is up to you. joel

 

[cdgun]

I have a Ford Golden Jubilee which my father bought in 1953. I now use the tractor to bushog mostly. Over the years the lift pump has been rebuilt and I have just had it rebuilt recently. It is a piston pump. Also new seals were replaced in the lift mechanism. The mechanic put 10w john deere hydraulic fluid in it. He said that is what he using in most all the hydraulics. After the tractors sets overnight the lift will not work until the fluid is bleed at the pump. Once this is done then it works ok until it sets overnight. Then the same procedure is required to get it to work. Could this be due to the 10w fluid? I have read lots of post about what hydraulic fluid to use in the Ford NAA but I am still confused. I see some who suggest 134D or 80w-90 gear oil or UTF fluid or Hytran or ..... Seems to me there is a lot of difference between 80w-90 gear oil and 10w hydraulic fluid. The original owners manual that came with the tractors only suggests: "A type" fluid for the hydraulic system which I have completely no idea what that means. Any clarification as to what should be used is grately appreciated.

 

[Soundguy]

1, 80w90 oil is NOT meant for the hyds.. that was a carry over from the previous tractor line, the 9n, 2n, and 8n, they used a 90wt mineral gear oil in the rear end and hyds.

People who can't read manuals and simply repeat what their friends say are the ones saying to put gear oil in the hyds.

Now.. while straight hyd oil originally was ok for that closed hyds sump... since it shares inter sump seals with places like the rear end, there is NO GOOD reason to put straight hyd oil in the hyds... if it leaks, it will thin your gear oil... and hyd oil isn't good for rear ends.

134 / hytran / utf all basically the same thing. they are multi purpose fluids made for hyds, differential, transmission, power steering, planetaries, etc.

i'd use a utf oil meeting the m2c134 spec in the tranny, diffy and hyds and that way if any intersump leaks happen.. no biggie. Most places sell a house brand utf for 25-55$ per 5g. beware 19-24$ oils if you are in a freezing area, as they are a cheaper oil with poor viscosity index in cold areas. if in hot areas.. the cheaper oil can be just fine.

A working pump SHOULD be fine on 10w oil.. however what is commonly sean are leaking shaft seals on those piston pumps. if it was not FULLY rebuilt, or rebuilt correctly.. it can allow a suction side leak / loss of prime. could be seal or shaft wear, or both. I've seen plenty of partial pump rebuilds that only adressed the back half the pump, that still allowed air leaks.

at this point, i'd change to utf, on the odd chance the oil you have in it is just junk. if no help, then check the following.

look for leaks and weeps at the external plumbing and pump. if you are lucky, it is a plumbing connection leak. if not lucky, it is the pump.

at that point, either a correct rebuild, or install a petcock or valve into the pump in place of the bleed plug, and just crack it at startup. i've seen people run clear line from a nipple/valve on the pump back to the sump to facilitate morning bleeds vs rebuilding when tight on cash or time.

 

[cdgun]

Thanks for the info. Since the rebuil I have noticed a clicking noise from the pump even with no load. Any ideas.

 

[Soundguy]

clicking.. hmm.. could be a bearing or ball / spring.