Ford 1700 Clutch Replacement

[Piper Pacer]

All, I have a 1982 Ford 1700 and I'm getting ready to replace the clutch. Has anyone does this before and if so do you have any lessons learned that you might want to share?

Thanks,
Dennis

 

[jones6780]

I am in the middle of an engine rebuild now. There are no big problems just think it through. You will have to split the engine from the clutch housing so be sure that both are supported and you have a way to roll the engine or back half for clearance and clutch removal. The implements mounted on the tractor will affect balance and weight, I would remove everything. My preference would be to replace pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate and release bearing. You don't want to go back and do this again so do it right the first time. You can also look at the forward transmission seal for leaks. There is a clutch alignment tool available but it is a bit pricey at $30 plus. I am still looking to find one cheaper. It is a fairly big job to split a tractor but not that complicated. Good luck.

Russell

 

[jones6780]

One thing I forgot, cut wood wedges to place between the frame and the front axle to prevent the engine from leaning over.

Russell

 

[JC-jetro]

All, I have a 1982 Ford 1700 and I'm getting ready to replace the clutch. Has anyone does this before and if so do you have any lessons learned that you might want to share?

Thanks,
Dennis

Dennis,

I don't know if I have much lessons learned about tractor split as I have never done that before. In college and few years after that I have done a few clutch replacement jobs with FWD and RWD vehicles. I can rank Clutch replacement on Honda more difficult than my little Ford 1700 for sure, at least you don't have to lay on your back supporting than clutch housing.
I have looked closely in the past on what I need to do if I have to tackle the job on my 1700. I concur with all the stuff Russel Had to say. I think the main key is to keep front and rear of the tractor level and not bound up by gravity. I would for sure put my loaded carry all on the back and lower it on some blocking to keep the rear end from doing a back flip. I would block the axle the frame to keep the front level using a floor jack. I would probably park the tractor where I would be able to park a car or truck as anchor point so I can use a come along for mechanical advantage when I'm separating the ends. I know in the manual it says to drain all the fluid which i think it is absolutely unnecessary as you can break the hydraulic supply and return piping at the banjo connection right off the hyd pump. The banjo elevation is higher than the hyd sump oil level so you'll loose no oil. I'd take the fuel tank off as it is easy and helps you with the access. Injector bleed off lines, throttle linkage, electrical, steering rod, clutch linkage, starter are pretty easy to take out as well. I'd take a few pics so I can go back if i get turned around during disassembly. I'd for sure replace all clutch components and make sure use or make aligning tool to have the clutch centered perfectly for input shaft and disk splines to line up. I'd make sure to torque all the pressure plate bolts. I know I have plenty of clutch disk material left on my 1700 and don't know when I'm going to be in your shoes but I know I'll be doing it myself.
Good Luck,
JC

 

[Texas Blues]

Hey Piper, some pictures of your progress would be cool. My 1700's clutch seems ok, but my throw bearing is making noise and I may be in there sooner than later. Some pictures would be a great tool. Good luck! TB