273 new holland square baler question
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RickB
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Improper chamber fill. There are mechanical adjustments detailed in your operator's manual that can help. Running the baler close to capacity helps best. Gear up and throttle back a little if you have small windrows and rough ground. No manual? Go here and buy one for $20.
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tonylabarre
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I also have a 273 with the same problem, were you able to fix this and if so how?
thanks
tony
thanks
tony
I have a 273 & 268 square baler. When the 268 wouldn't make "square" bales my equipment guru friend kept telling me about the needles/fingers in the hay chamber being the problem...I wouldn't believe him & fought the problem for several years...Then finally I gave up & did what he suggested...I have perfect square bales now!!! It made no sense to me & I truly did not believe that could be the problem...I am a believer now.
RickB
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Your "equipment guru friend" must have been privy to the double top-secret information in the operator's manual.
sweettractors
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I would assume that you have already tightened the long side on the back end of the bale chamber. If so, I defer to what has already been stated. Ken Sweet
Bale shape problems can be cause by:
The tines on the feeder carriage are worn and do not reach for enough into the hay to move the hay into the bale chamber.
You can either replace the tines or adjust the feeder carriage penetraction into the bale chamber. To do this, open the front shield. You will see an arm from the feeder attached to the plunger. The arm is attached with a 3/4" bolt with the nut to the top. It takes a 1 1/8" wrench or socket. Loosen this nut slightly. Now, look at the bolt head of this 3/4" bolt at the bottom of the plunger arm and you will see a 3/8" adjusting bolt with a nut on each side a plate. Loosening the rear nut and tightening the front nut will move the feeder arm so it penetrates farther into the bale chamber. Do this if the bales are longer on the right side of the bale which is usually the case. If the bales are longer on the left side then loosen the front nut and tighten the rear nut. Be sure to retighted the 3/4" bolt. Turn the baler flywheel by hand to make sure there is no interference through the feeder travel. Bale a few bales and see if further adjustment is necessary.
Another place to look is the "haydogs and haydog springs". The haydogs are the fingers that stick into the bale chamber, on top and bottom, to hold the hay back. There are three haydogs on top of the bale case right below the knotter stack and there are two haydogs under the bale chamber. Make sure the haydogs are free and not stuck up out of the bale chamber. Also check that the springs are not broken. It is possible that one side of the spring is broken. The center top and bottom spring along with the right top are the same spring. The left top and the right bottom use a different spring. If any in their group feels weaker it is probably broken on one side. They should move freely and snap back into the bale chamber when released.
Poorly formed windrows will also cause you bale shape problems.
There are wedges in the bale chamber. Make sure you have the same amount on each side. Adjust the bale tension cranks so they are the same length.
Mike
The tines on the feeder carriage are worn and do not reach for enough into the hay to move the hay into the bale chamber.
You can either replace the tines or adjust the feeder carriage penetraction into the bale chamber. To do this, open the front shield. You will see an arm from the feeder attached to the plunger. The arm is attached with a 3/4" bolt with the nut to the top. It takes a 1 1/8" wrench or socket. Loosen this nut slightly. Now, look at the bolt head of this 3/4" bolt at the bottom of the plunger arm and you will see a 3/8" adjusting bolt with a nut on each side a plate. Loosening the rear nut and tightening the front nut will move the feeder arm so it penetrates farther into the bale chamber. Do this if the bales are longer on the right side of the bale which is usually the case. If the bales are longer on the left side then loosen the front nut and tighten the rear nut. Be sure to retighted the 3/4" bolt. Turn the baler flywheel by hand to make sure there is no interference through the feeder travel. Bale a few bales and see if further adjustment is necessary.
Another place to look is the "haydogs and haydog springs". The haydogs are the fingers that stick into the bale chamber, on top and bottom, to hold the hay back. There are three haydogs on top of the bale case right below the knotter stack and there are two haydogs under the bale chamber. Make sure the haydogs are free and not stuck up out of the bale chamber. Also check that the springs are not broken. It is possible that one side of the spring is broken. The center top and bottom spring along with the right top are the same spring. The left top and the right bottom use a different spring. If any in their group feels weaker it is probably broken on one side. They should move freely and snap back into the bale chamber when released.
Poorly formed windrows will also cause you bale shape problems.
There are wedges in the bale chamber. Make sure you have the same amount on each side. Adjust the bale tension cranks so they are the same length.
Mike
trevor conmy
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I have a new hollland 276 square baler, was working fine, up until a couple years ago. The problem with it is that it is inclined to "bow" or banana the bales as they are coming out the back of the baler; standing at the back of the baler, the bales bow off to the left hand side. The problem seems to be that there isnt enough hay/straw being picked and thrown over to the left hand side of the chamber to keep the bale in shape, is this correct? I have tried moving the extreme left feeding fork over into the left hand side of the chamber as far as it will go, but it makes no difference. Bales are still inclined to banana. Any advice in regard to what could be wrong?
hosspuller
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Before making adjustments on a baler that was working correctly.. try to determine what has changed. Look for something that has moved, worn or gotten bent. Then either fix or adjust to compensate.
RickB
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Windrow size and plunger strokes per bale have as much effect on bale shape as mechanical adjustments. Make uniform windrows, and adjust RPM's and ground speed to keep strokes per bale consistent.