3430 clutch question

[dapper]

I have a question on a clutch issue for a NH 3430. Some times, but not all the time, in fact not most of the time, just some times, when I try to shift from one gear to another it is like the clutch is not depressed all the way. Doesn't want to engage without a lot of grinding. Not sure how to better describe it. I can force it into gear (with a lot of grinding) or i can take the hi low lever to neutral position, and it will engage correctly. But I shouldn't have to move the hi low lever. Clutch is good, no slipping, doesn't seem worn, and yes it seems to be disengaging correctly. With clutch in, no movement of tractor or trying to move. I have thought about adjusting the clutch, but i do not believe that it is an adjustment issue. Not sure what the problem is.
Any idea guys? Anyone ever had this kind of issue?

 

[JC-jetro]

You need to shorten your clutch adjustment linkage. By doing so, you get the release bearing surface closer (but not touching) the fingers on the pressure plate. What you are describing is caused by not totally separating clutch disk from flywheel and pressure plate. make sure not to over adjust as you'll wear out fingers and release bearing prematurely.

Do you have synchromesh gear drive? can you shift on the fly?

JC,

 

[dapper]

JC, I understand what your saying. I thought along those lines myself. But if the clutch plate was not separating completely, wouldn't there be a tendency to try to move the tractor? Kind of a tug, or pull all the time. I believe I would be able to feel this not releasing, and that is not what I feel. Tractor is quite peaceful with clutch in, no pull, no heat, no smell... and as I say most of the time shifting into gear from a stop is no problem. just occasionally. And I am sure the peddle is max down during these attempts, with no better results.
Yes the tractor does have synchronized transmission, and synchro's seem to be working correctly. if you mean can I go from lower gear up to higher gear on fly, the answer is yes, usually, but this can be the same problem i have been describing. If it was consistent, it would make more sense but it is not.
You thoughts are appreciated, and adjusting clutch linkage is an easy test, just trying to collect helpful info before I start taking things apart. If anyone would know, there will be someone on this board with similar experience.
Thanks.

 

[JC-jetro]

dapper,

I still think the clutch disk is not separated all the way even if you depress the pedal all the way. Rotational speed of the transmission shaft is different in higher gear to lower gear. you might hit a more suitable speed to cause the synchronizer to mesh a bit easier at certain condition and not on others. External linkage adjustment is such an easy task, I'd suggest that you put a dab of white paint on the thread and let it dry before you adjust. If the result is not satisfactory you can certainly bring to previous position quickly. If your clutch were slipping you'd smell burnt clutch disk , grinding and all the stuff you mentioned.


JC,

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

When it doesn't want to disengage and you force it in to gear does the tractor lurch or creep forward.Also when this happens how far do you have to let the clutch out before the tractor moves.
Bill

 

[RickB]

If you have the proper pedal freeplay (1-1/2" I think) it seems the clutch disc has oil on it, or perhaps the clutch disc splines are dragging on the input shaft splines.

 

[dapper]

JC , I agree that adjustment is easy. Paint is good idea, as can return if not better. I do not believe the clutch is slipping as you say I would smell it, and I do not.
Hooked, I think I understand what your saying, if I forced it into gear and clutch was not disengaged completely, it would try to creep forward on its own. It doesn't do this. It also doesn't do that if I am just stopped with the clutch in. just doesn't feel like the clutch is dragging. I know what that would feel like, kind of like starting off slow with a load, and that is not it.
Rick, I believe the clutch has proper free play. Doesn稚 seem excessive, and I would say 1-1/2 sounds about right. Not sure where to measure exactly, but I can check tomorrow. How would disc get oil on it? Any idea? Wouldn't oil cause a more consistent issue? You have me thinking on the spline issue, tell me more. All I can think is if the disc splines were dragging on the input splines, wouldn't this just cause it to be harder to engage or disengage? As the splines move back and forth (front to rear) on the shaft? What am I missing?
Thanks guys appreciate the feedback. Look forward to your thoughts.

 

[JC-jetro]

Dapper,

Oil can enter the clutch housing basically from two locations. one location would be from engine thru main crankshaft seal just behind the flywheel. 2nd potential would be the shaft seal for the transmission input shaft. if there is a leak from either side it would end up in the bottom of clutch housing. On mine I can thru a hand hole on the side take a peek inside to look for condensation or oil. On some tractors there is a drain hole right under the clutch housing that serves only as a tell tale drain plug. you open it up and should not see oil seepage. oil in there will somehow start spining and slinging around causing clutch slippage and smoking oil.

Below is the drain plug for my 1700 and do not know if you have the same on your 3430.

JC,

 

[dapper]

JC, thanks for the pic. Am I right in thinking that is the purpose of the "jiggle cotter key" hole in the tranny case? Drain any oil or water in their? I will take a look at mine this weekend, as I am going to try the adjustment ideas suggested. I will know more after that. Will let you know outcome.

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, thanks for the pic. Am I right in thinking that is the purpose of the "jiggle cotter key" hole in the tranny case? Drain any oil or water in their? I will take a look at mine this weekend, as I am going to try the adjustment ideas suggested. I will know more after that. Will let you know outcome.

Hey dapper,

Yes, that's correct. In the Kubota pic below you can see it. The jiggle pin is spring loaded shut. You push it up and you can drain water (condensation) or oil. It should be dry.

JC,