I recentley bought a TC 40D hydro. The left turn signal light and turn indicator has been lit since I bought the tractor. When I use the right turn signal it works fine and the left turn light remains lit. The wiring within the turn signals themselves look fine. The threads I found related to this problem pointed toward moisture in the turn signal switch. I removed and disassembled the switch, it didn't have any moisture in it. I greased the contacts with silicone grease and reassembled the switch. Any suggestions of what to check next? Thanks, Sig
TC40D turn signal problem
- Thread starter sigjig
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jinman
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- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
When you use your turn signal, the standard way of operation is for one light to blink and the opposite side comes on and does not blink. Both lights come on, but only the one in the direction you have chosen with the switch will blink.
That said, you have a problem that your left light stays on all the time. Since you say the switch seems to be working, I don't think it is your problem. Another check you can do is to press the hazard flasher button on the dash. This should cause both blinkers to flash simultaneously. If only the right one flashes, the you probably have a bad NASO flash converter module. I don't think you have a problem with the flasher relay itself because it is the same flasher used for both the right and left blinker. If it works for one, it should work for the other.
The NASO converter and all other relays are located under the left side of the cowling directly below and in front of your steering wheel. This cowling has two bolts below the steering wheel and two more you can access after raising the hood. They are on the flat "firewall" area behind the muffler and engine on the left side. You won't have to remove both cowling halves. Only the left side is required to gain access to the relays.
In the illustration below, #7 is the flasher relay. The rectangular box to the left without a number is the NASO flasher converter. That is probably the source of your problem. There is a whole procedure for checking out this flasher unit, but if the hazard flasher and blinker switch both do not cause your left light to blink, then you can pretty much be sure that the problem is the NASO flash converter unit.
That said, you have a problem that your left light stays on all the time. Since you say the switch seems to be working, I don't think it is your problem. Another check you can do is to press the hazard flasher button on the dash. This should cause both blinkers to flash simultaneously. If only the right one flashes, the you probably have a bad NASO flash converter module. I don't think you have a problem with the flasher relay itself because it is the same flasher used for both the right and left blinker. If it works for one, it should work for the other.
The NASO converter and all other relays are located under the left side of the cowling directly below and in front of your steering wheel. This cowling has two bolts below the steering wheel and two more you can access after raising the hood. They are on the flat "firewall" area behind the muffler and engine on the left side. You won't have to remove both cowling halves. Only the left side is required to gain access to the relays.
In the illustration below, #7 is the flasher relay. The rectangular box to the left without a number is the NASO flasher converter. That is probably the source of your problem. There is a whole procedure for checking out this flasher unit, but if the hazard flasher and blinker switch both do not cause your left light to blink, then you can pretty much be sure that the problem is the NASO flash converter unit.
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fishpick
Platinum Member
jinman - from other posts I take it you have the service manual for the TC45? Electronic or bound? How much did you pay - and (I know the answer to this one) you think it's worth it?
jinman
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Fishpick, I bought my paper copy of the manuals back in 2001 when the set was just over $200. I also bought the Illustrated Parts Catalog for an additional $40. With shipping, the cost was $259.
The manuals cover all the Class III tractors, gear and HST models. The interesting part is that there is no section for the loader. That is covered only in a separate Owner's Manual that comes with the loader. The joystick valve and hydraulic plumbing to the quick connects are covered in the hydraulic section, but there is no info on the loader cylinders, hoses, or frame. Of course, all that is pretty simple, but if you want to order a part for the loader, expect to spend some quality time standing in front of your nearest dealer's parts counter.
The CD was not available when I bought my tractor. Heck! The quick attach loader was listed in the manuals, but it wasn't available yet. I had to retrofit my loader after the parts became available.
My manuals do not cover any of the "DA" or "A" model tractors. I think they all are covered on the CD, but I'm not sure.
Would I buy the manual again? You bet! In a heartbeat. I would have bought it at twice the price, but I'm glad I didn't have to.
The manuals cover all the Class III tractors, gear and HST models. The interesting part is that there is no section for the loader. That is covered only in a separate Owner's Manual that comes with the loader. The joystick valve and hydraulic plumbing to the quick connects are covered in the hydraulic section, but there is no info on the loader cylinders, hoses, or frame. Of course, all that is pretty simple, but if you want to order a part for the loader, expect to spend some quality time standing in front of your nearest dealer's parts counter.
The CD was not available when I bought my tractor. Heck! The quick attach loader was listed in the manuals, but it wasn't available yet. I had to retrofit my loader after the parts became available.
My manuals do not cover any of the "DA" or "A" model tractors. I think they all are covered on the CD, but I'm not sure.
Would I buy the manual again? You bet! In a heartbeat. I would have bought it at twice the price, but I'm glad I didn't have to.
Jinman, You were right on the money with my hydro creeping problem last time I posted. As soon as I get a day off I will follow up with your suggestion on my current problem. Thanks again, Sig
P.S. I read some posts you responded to regarding the TC 35, 40, and 45 hydro relief valve pressure valve settings, and was a little disappointed with the concept that my new 40HP tractor will only pull the equivalent of a 35 hp tractor because the hydros all relieve at the same pressure! I hope I didn't make a mistake by not going with gear transmission.
P.S. I read some posts you responded to regarding the TC 35, 40, and 45 hydro relief valve pressure valve settings, and was a little disappointed with the concept that my new 40HP tractor will only pull the equivalent of a 35 hp tractor because the hydros all relieve at the same pressure! I hope I didn't make a mistake by not going with gear transmission.
jinman
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Sigjig, you certainly did NOT make a mistake going with the TC40D. You gained a 4-cyl smooth engine, more loader capacity, more 3PH capacity, and more at the PTO. You also gained a tractor that will easily pull until the relief valve opens; whereas, the TC35D might struggle a bit before lifting the valve.
If you go one step up to the TC45D like mine, you don't gain nearly as much as you do by going with the TC40D instead of the TC35D. If you were trying to choose between the 40 and 45, I'd suggest the TC40D unless you needed the extra PTO HP for some specific task. In my opinion, there is too much of a price difference between those tractors for what you get. But, the money you spent to get up to the TC40D level was money well-spent.
Oh yes! There's one thing I forgot. When you open up the cowling, be prepared to see an area that is about as dirty as you can imagine. Inside these cowlings seems to be a place that attracts and collects dust. Use dry air to blow out the dust, don't be foolish like I was the first time and splash water in there. I got water behind my relays and all sorts of things started going wacky. I had to pull the relays and blow-dry the area to get things back to normal. don't be surprised to see that you may have some rodent damage too. They seem to love this area of the tractor and the taste of wiring. The first thing I would do is to look for damage and then pull all the relays and plug them back into their sockets to make sure this is not caused by dirty contacts. You could get lucky and not have to spend a dime to fix your problem.
If you go one step up to the TC45D like mine, you don't gain nearly as much as you do by going with the TC40D instead of the TC35D. If you were trying to choose between the 40 and 45, I'd suggest the TC40D unless you needed the extra PTO HP for some specific task. In my opinion, there is too much of a price difference between those tractors for what you get. But, the money you spent to get up to the TC40D level was money well-spent.
Oh yes! There's one thing I forgot. When you open up the cowling, be prepared to see an area that is about as dirty as you can imagine. Inside these cowlings seems to be a place that attracts and collects dust. Use dry air to blow out the dust, don't be foolish like I was the first time and splash water in there.
I got water behind my relays and all sorts of things started going wacky. I had to pull the relays and blow-dry the area to get things back to normal. don't be surprised to see that you may have some rodent damage too. They seem to love this area of the tractor and the taste of wiring. The first thing I would do is to look for damage and then pull all the relays and plug them back into their sockets to make sure this is not caused by dirty contacts. You could get lucky and not have to spend a dime to fix your problem.Jinman, I pulled the side cover to check out the NASO, the configuation is different than what is shown in the diagram you attached with your reply. I blew out the dust and removed and cleaned each relay. There is a relay on the right side that is different from the other eight relays. Could this have replaced the NASO shown in your diagram. Unfortunately I didn't write down the part number while I the cover off. In the attached pic it's on the right side of the relay block.
