2810 power steering problems

[king1]

here are those pics.

[king1]

Originally Posted by king1

the cylinders bottoming out would cause the pressure spike so yes bypassing the cylinders would do nothing. i thought about that later. i am going to try to bend the cylinder rods back and use it as you have suggested. the cylinders are not rebuildable to the best of my knowledge. they are welded. the only thing on the end is a snap ring that comes off to allow for new seals.

the bucket was not loaded. the ground was rough and full of ruts and holes but i used the tractor over the same ground the day before for at least 5 to 6 hrs. when this happened, i had just gotten started the following day. the front end does have some play in it but not so much as to think that would have caused the problem. the radius rods are tight.

the alignment. this is an interesting subject. i got the tractor hung up last year. real hung up. i was filling in an old pool and had the front end slip over the edge of a huge piece of concrete into the soupy muck on the other side. after getting it out both front tires were turned out. i couldn't figure out what had bent or broke. everything looked ok.

i'll get some pics up soon. hopefully tonight.

thankyou for the help

i straightened the steering rods out today and put them back on. i did some research and found out by adjusting the tie rods near the wheel i lengthened the amount the rods are extended causing the rods to extend too far and bend. i adjusted the tie rods back to the original position but now the alignment is way off. how do i get the alignment straight? it has to be something in the steering box or the arms coming down or those adjustment screws on either side of the steering box near the arms.

[king1]

i believe i have found what has caused the alignment to get out of wack so bad. the splines on the shaft and arms coming out of the steering box look like they have striped and are all bound up now. i have to get a bigger gear puller to take those arms off to inspect them further as those arms are really stuck. looks like there might even be a spline or two broken.

[king1]

can't get the what seems to be the pitman arms off. now i'm stuck again. what a project.

[king1]

no help huh?

[RickB]

A two jaw puller, big hammer, oxy/acetylene torch. Any combination of the above. If the pitman arm is out of time, it has to come off. If the pitman arm or sector shaft splines are damaged, you need to replace the parts. Not much I can do from here. If you are going to open up that steering box yourself, get a GOOD service manual and if you get the OEM manual, make SURE you are reading the section that pertains to the box you have. The 10 series service manual refers to more than one double drop steering box.

[MikesTractor]

Originally Posted by RickB

A two jaw puller, big hammer, oxy/acetylene torch. Any combination of the above. If the pitman arm is out of time, it has to come off. If the pitman arm or sector shaft splines are damaged, you need to replace the parts. Not much I can do from here. If you are going to open up that steering box yourself, get a GOOD service manual and if you get the OEM manual, make SURE you are reading the section that pertains to the box you have. The 10 series service manual refers to more than one double drop steering box.

Exactly!!

Thanks for posting the pictures. I had to go out of town unexpectedly and just got back last night. I looked at the pics and from the angle you had to take them from (I realize the loader post was in the way), it is hard to tell if they are out of time. You can check this by turning the wheels all the way to one side and make some kind of mark where the drop arm stops. Then turn the wheels all the way to the other side and mark where the drop arm stops. When the wheels are pointed straight ahead, the drop arm should be near the middle of the two marks.

To remove the drop arms, I use a pitman arm puller that I got at NAPA. I have seen them at most other parts stores. Below is a sketch of it. Take the nut off and remove the lock washer. Put the nut back on until it is flush with the end of the shaft. This will give room for the arm to move. With a combination of the puller and some hammering to jar it, they should come off.

Because of the way the splines are made, the arm will only go back on in 1 position.

If you have to go inside the steering box, take RickB's advice and make sure you have the right manual for your box.

Another place you might look for wear/movement is at the top of the spindle. The arm that goes on top slides over a half moon key in the shaft then is secured with a lock bolt. You can pull these arms and check the key and key slots for wear. You will have to take the lock bolt all the way out before the arm will come off.

Keep us posted.

Mike

[king1]

thanks guys! i'll have to do your pitman arm alignment check. so they only go on one way. well thats one less thing that could be out of alignment unless they spun on the shaft. i have a big gear puller and i beat those pitman arms and they wouldn't budge. i didn't put the oxy/acet torches to it because i was afraid to heat the shaft too much and ruin a seal so i just used a good map gas torch and those suckers would not budge. i'll have to work on it some more and i will absolutely get the service manual. i want to be able to do this myself so that i can learn something about the steering system on this tractor as i think that it's going to be around a while. it's only got about 650 hrs on it and the thing is in really good shape other then the steering. i do understand that the front end on this tractor is light duty but it starts every time even when its -15 F out, and its always done every chore we asked it to within its limitations.

[MikesTractor]

Here is a the link to the pitman arm puller that I use. Most parts stores have them and they are only about $20.00. It makes getting that arm off a whole lot easier.

K-D Tools 2289 - Pitman Arm Puller

Mike

[king1]

thanks again mike. i'm going to see if napa has one. if not i'll be ordering one.