2810 power steering problems

[king1]

i have a 1991 ford 2810 with an allied loader on it. 3 yrs ago a power steering cylinder bent on it. We replaced that one and it was fine for awhile. The other day both cylinders bent on it and the odd thing was both were fully extended when they bent. I pulled the pump housing off to check the pressure relief valve to see if it was dirty or maybe had backed out. Everything was clean and tight. I put everything back togather and tested the presure coming out of the pump to a dead headed gauge and got 850 psi, which is what it should read. I am trying to figure out what happened before i spend the $500 or $600 on new power steering cylinders just to have them bend all over again. I am stumped righ now. Anybody have any ideas?

 

[dave1949]

The other day both cylinders bent on it and the odd thing was both were fully extended when they bent.

Not at all familiar with this tractor, but I was thinking normally if the wheels were turned full left or right, one cylinder would be fully extended, the other fully retracted.

If that is the way it is supposed to work, then a valve somewhere must be stuck open.

Dave.

 

[king1]

I'm going to put a gauge teed inline on the high pressure side, bypass the bent power steering cylinders by jumping the two lines togather on either side, then crank the wheel all the way left then all the way right. I'm thinking that when the steering bottoms out, the gauge should read 850psi. If the gauge at any time reads 850psi before bottoming out then i would assume that there is a problem. what that problem or valve thats sticking might be, i'm not to sure. I think that i've got it traced back to something in the steering box. Before i tear into the disassembly of the steering box i was hoping to get some more advice, as that is a big job and not one i'm looking forward to.

 

[dave1949]

Wish I could help you more, I think you are on the right track. Sounds like it could be an intermittent problem. I'll bet someone on here knows exactly where to look before you start taking it apart. Give it a day or two if you can wait.

 

[king1]

i'll wait. i don't want to go any farther without some direction. thanks

 

[MikesTractor]

I'm going to put a gauge teed inline on the high pressure side, bypass the bent power steering cylinders by jumping the two lines togather on either side, then crank the wheel all the way left then all the way right. I'm thinking that when the steering bottoms out, the gauge should read 850psi. If the gauge at any time reads 850psi before bottoming out then i would assume that there is a problem. what that problem or valve thats sticking might be, i'm not to sure. I think that i've got it traced back to something in the steering box. Before i tear into the disassembly of the steering box i was hoping to get some more advice, as that is a big job and not one i'm looking forward to.

If you remove the cylinders from the circuit (bypass them), there will be no load on the steering...so there would be no pressure on the gauge. The load of the cylinder trying to move the wheel or reaching the end of it's stroke is what creates pressure.

Unless the rod looks like a pretzel, see if you can straighten it some. If you can straighten the rod enough for the cylinder to run in and out, keep those cylinders on until you are through trouble shooting.

Are your cylinders rebuildable or are they welded? If they are rebuildable, that should be a lot cheaper than complete cylinders.

How were you using your tractor when they bent? Was the bucket loaded? Was the ground very uneven/ruts/potholes? Does your front end have a lot of loose motion in it, such as loose tie rod ends? Are the radius rods tight? Is front end alignment correct? Any or all of these could have something to do with bending the cylinder rods.

Also, pics would help.

Mike

 

[king1]

the cylinders bottoming out would cause the pressure spike so yes bypassing the cylinders would do nothing. i thought about that later. i am going to try to bend the cylinder rods back and use it as you have suggested. the cylinders are not rebuildable to the best of my knowledge. they are welded. the only thing on the end is a snap ring that comes off to allow for new seals.

the bucket was not loaded. the ground was rough and full of ruts and holes but i used the tractor over the same ground the day before for at least 5 to 6 hrs. when this happened, i had just gotten started the following day. the front end does have some play in it but not so much as to think that would have caused the problem. the radius rods are tight.

the alignment. this is an interesting subject. i got the tractor hung up last year. real hung up. i was filling in an old pool and had the front end slip over the edge of a huge piece of concrete into the soupy muck on the other side. after getting it out both front tires were turned out. i couldn't figure out what had bent or broke. everything looked ok. i adjusted the tie rods to strighted the tires and aligned it with a ruler. the tractor was good all last winter to move snow, all this summer mowing and clearing brush. then i tagged a huge stump and tweeked the front end again. i aligned the front end, again, by adjusting the tie rods to get the wheels stright. the tractor was good for about ten or so hours until the major failer of the steering rods.

i'll get some pics up soon. hopefully tonight.

thankyou for the help

 

[99SVT]

possibly something inside the steering gear box is stripped? It takes the hard jolt to screw up the wheel alignment?

 

[MikesTractor]

possibly something inside the steering gear box is stripped? It takes the hard jolt to screw up the wheel alignment?

Yeah, that's kinda what I was just thinking. Only out of time instead of stripped.

king1
When you turn the steering wheel all the way to each side, do the wheels turn farther one way than the other? Is there any free travel in the steering wheel before the wheels start to turn?

When you take those pics, I need you to take 2 shots for me. Where the shaft comes out of each side of the steering box, the arm that points down, I need a picture of these arms. One from each side with the wheels pointing straight ahead.

Mike

 

[king1]

ok. i know what you're refering to. it looks like on either side of the steering box there are adjustment screws to maybe change the steering stops. i'm not sure though. the arms that come down are not at the same location with the wheels straight. again, i'm not sure if thats the way it is suppose to be or not. i'll get those pictures. yes it does seem as if the steering goes more one way then the other but how much, its hard to say. there is no free travel in the steering wheel before the wheels start to turn. thanks again to everyone for the help.