Oil & Fuel Ford 3000 diesel fuel filter change?

[tycteach]

Ok guys, I just bought a Ford 3000 Diesel tractor and I have a couple of questions as I'm unfamiliar with this tractor.

1. The PTO lever engages the PTO shaft just fine but pushing in the clutch doesn't disengage it. Is this normal and if not, what do I need to do about it. Or do I need to be worried about it at all?

2. The only way I can get it to start in the cold weather (that's all we've had since I bought it) is with a pretty good shot of starting fluid. I ran it for about 15 minutes and then it died and I can't get it to restart. It will fire off as long as I can get starting fluid to it but doesn't seem to pick up the diesel to run. There is diesel in the tank and the fuel shutoff is on. I was thinking that the fuel filter might be clogged up some as it did this to me once before and after I let it sit for a while, it did start up (this was just before the 15 minute operation I mentioned earlier). So, if this is a possibility, how do I change the filter without letting air into the system? Almost forgot to mention that when it was running it was pulsing some. If I do get air in the system, how to I get it out?

This is a 4 speed with a high and low range. I am out of state right now and won't be able to be back to this tractor until a couple of weeks so I thought I might have a few ideas on what to do when I get back.

Thanks in advance for the help. I know there are some really knowledgable people on here on these tractors and really enjoy reading from time to time. Hopefully I'll get this straightened out and this will be a really good little tractor for me.

 

[dex3361]

I would change the fuel filter and add some fuel conditioner. When you change the fuel filter you will have to bleed the air out of the filter and possibly out of the injectors. The fuel comes out of the tank then into a primary fuel pump (some are mechanical some are electric and some have no pump because they are gravity feed) into a filter (possibly combined with a clear water separator bowl). After the fuel filter the fuel goes into the injector pump which feeds high pressure diesel fuel into each individual cylinder at the proper time. When you bleed the fuel system start at the filter they usually have a bleed screw at the top of the filter assembly to let the air out. if your fuel pump is mechanical it sometimes has a priming pump that you can use to force the fuel through the filter and out an injector. If it is electric or gravity feed then after bleeding the air out of the filter you will need to crank it over sometimes it starts and sometimes it has to have the injectors bleed the injectors come out of the injector pump and go to the injectors mounted in the cylinder head. start at the injector closest to the pump and crack the fitting and crank it till you see fuel coming out of the fitting then tighten the fitting on that injector. Do the same for the remaining injectors. It should start from here. I would not use starting fluid it will destroy your engine if used to much. It probably needs to be warmed up before you try to start it. It may have bad glow plugs and/or preheater.
Sorry there is no short answer here.

 

[RickB]

Here's the best advise you will get. Buy an operator's manual. You have two weeks to get it shipped to you, and most if not all your questions will be answered by reading it.
Yes, you will get air in the fuel system when you change toe fuel filter. There is a bleeder at the filter head and one on the injection pump. There are two different injection pumps on Ford 3000's and the pump bleeding procedure is unique to each style. The generic advise posted above is more or less accurate. You will need to know if you have an inline or rotary injection pump in order to get detailed help.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Ok guys, I just bought a Ford 3000 Diesel tractor and I have a couple of questions as I'm unfamiliar with this tractor.

1. The PTO lever engages the PTO shaft just fine but pushing in the clutch doesn't disengage it. Is this normal and if not, what do I need to do about it. Or do I need to be worried about it at all?

2. The only way I can get it to start in the cold weather (that's all we've had since I bought it) is with a pretty good shot of starting fluid. I ran it for about 15 minutes and then it died and I can't get it to restart. It will fire off as long as I can get starting fluid to it but doesn't seem to pick up the diesel to run. There is diesel in the tank and the fuel shutoff is on. I was thinking that the fuel filter might be clogged up some as it did this to me once before and after I let it sit for a while, it did start up (this was just before the 15 minute operation I mentioned earlier). So, if this is a possibility, how do I change the filter without letting air into the system? Almost forgot to mention that when it was running it was pulsing some. If I do get air in the system, how to I get it out?

This is a 4 speed with a high and low range. I am out of state right now and won't be able to be back to this tractor until a couple of weeks so I thought I might have a few ideas on what to do when I get back.

Thanks in advance for the help. I know there are some really knowledgable people on here on these tractors and really enjoy reading from time to time. Hopefully I'll get this straightened out and this will be a really good little tractor for me.

Question 1:

An owners manual will tell you how to operate your tractor. Get one. If you have an indepedent pto, the lever turns it on and off.

Question 2:
Quit using starting fluid until you sort the problem out. You can break rings with that stuff. Diesels in good mechanical condition need fuel to start and a good battery and starter to crank them over. Open the bottom bleeder on your fuel filte(s)r. Do you get a lot fuel running or just a drip or small trickle?
If it's the later, you have restricted fuel delivery.
The fuel tank has a screen on them and they can clog with trash, algae, etc. Pull the screen and clean it. Change the filter(s) if you don't know the tractors history and bleed the fuel system at the filter. You will probably have to bleed the injectors to get it started. I crack the fittings open one at a time and crank the engine (tank valve open) till nothing but fuel leaks out and then retighten them. ( Make sure your battery is fully charged before you do this!) By the time you get to the last one the engine will usually start.

If it doesn't then you'll need to check the compression.

 

[tycteach]

Ok, guys. Thanks for the help so far. I have an Operator's manual on the way. Maybe I'll have that when I get back to the farm and it will help me too.

The pto does turn on and off with the lever on the left side. I guess it may not operate with the clutch. Does this mean that my shredder will try to continue to push me unless/until I push that lever to the off position? I sure hope not. That could be pretty tricky trying to push that lever when I'm used to pushing in the clutch.

I loosened the screw at the bottom of the fuel filter when all this happened and a little fuel flowed from it. I didn't loosen it a whole lot so I'm not sure if it was running out like it should or not.

I didn't study the tractor fuel line from the tank to the filter but I don't actually remember anything between the tank and the fuel filter. I'd better check that because I don't even remember a sediment bowl or anything anywhere in the line. Maybe I just didn't notice. If there isn't one there don't you think it would be a good idea to install one?

If you happen to think of anything else, I'd appreciate a holler. Possibly the fuel delivery is the reason it's not starting like it should to begin with.

I called the guy I bought it from and he told me to check the filter and said that had happened once before to him. He also told me that it started ok when it was warmer weather. We'll see.

Thanks again for the help so far.

Have a great evening.

Tony

 

[Soundguy]

except for sos machines.. i don't think there is an independent pto available on a 3000.. you said you had an 8spd right? ( rick? )

sounds like a stuck clutch side.. or it's worn past service life ( clutch ).

test it to see if pressing the clutch leave the pto actually powered vs freewheeling/oil coupled

soundguy

 

[tycteach]

Ok, guys. I finally made it back to the farm this past weekend. Referenced my new manual and put a new fuel filter in and couldn't get fuel to it. Traced the lines back to the tank (nothing between the filter and tank on this tractor). The line had been cut before I suspect as it wasn't a solid line all the way. It had about a 6" piece of rubber tubing in-line with clamps. Anyway, found that the fuel wasn't coming out of the tank as it should. Blew into the line and got some fuel but then it clogged again. Finally took the line off the tank and took the fuel shutoff out of the tank (naturally had to remove all the fuel the best I could first). A small piece of debris was blocking the flow. Got it cleaned out and put back together and bled the filter, the injector pump and the injectors and when I got the last injector done, she fired off. Ran like a top after that. Really helped with the cold starting too because now she is getting diesel (go figure). Another interesting thing is that the manual keeps mentions fuel filterS. My tractor only has one. Is this normal or has one been taken off, you think?

As far as the PTO.....Well, I hooked the tractor up to my shredder and it's clear that pushing the clutch in doesn't shut the pto off once it's engaged. It's clearly still under power. With the tractor at a low idle, I could snap the pto in and get the shredder going (I could feel a little bit of a grind) and could snap the pto out as well without the clutch. My manual doesn't mention anything about this model tractor having an independent PTO, but it sure seems to be acting that way. Is there some way for me to tell for sure? How big of a job is it to take care of the clutch if that happens to be what it is?

Oh, one other thing. My manual mentions that the pre-heater (the starter switch goes both ways one for normal start and one for heat), the starting fluid assist, and the block heater are all options on this tractor for cold starting. It's clear that mine has none of these options. Luckily I'll be using it 99% of the time in warmer weather.

The little tractor is quickly capturing my heart. I think I'm really going to like this tractor. The power steering is awesome and it has a gread turning radius.

Thanks for all the help.

Tony

 

[Soundguy]

you could have a dual or single element assembly.

soundguy

 

[Jerry/MT]

Ok, guys. I finally made it back to the farm this past weekend. Referenced my new manual and put a new fuel filter in and couldn't get fuel to it. Traced the lines back to the tank (nothing between the filter and tank on this tractor). The line had been cut before I suspect as it wasn't a solid line all the way. It had about a 6" piece of rubber tubing in-line with clamps. Anyway, found that the fuel wasn't coming out of the tank as it should. Blew into the line and got some fuel but then it clogged again. Finally took the line off the tank and took the fuel shutoff out of the tank (naturally had to remove all the fuel the best I could first). A small piece of debris was blocking the flow. Got it cleaned out and put back together and bled the filter, the injector pump and the injectors and when I got the last injector done, she fired off. Ran like a top after that. Really helped with the cold starting too because now she is getting diesel (go figure). Another interesting thing is that the manual keeps mentions fuel filterS. My tractor only has one. Is this normal or has one been taken off, you think?

As far as the PTO.....Well, I hooked the tractor up to my shredder and it's clear that pushing the clutch in doesn't shut the pto off once it's engaged. It's clearly still under power. With the tractor at a low idle, I could snap the pto in and get the shredder going (I could feel a little bit of a grind) and could snap the pto out as well without the clutch. My manual doesn't mention anything about this model tractor having an independent PTO, but it sure seems to be acting that way. Is there some way for me to tell for sure? How big of a job is it to take care of the clutch if that happens to be what it is?

Oh, one other thing. My manual mentions that the pre-heater (the starter switch goes both ways one for normal start and one for heat), the starting fluid assist, and the block heater are all options on this tractor for cold starting. It's clear that mine has none of these options. Luckily I'll be using it 99% of the time in warmer weather.

The little tractor is quickly capturing my heart. I think I'm really going to like this tractor. The power steering is awesome and it has a gread turning radius.

Thanks for all the help.

Tony

Don't assume you don't have a Thermostart as a starting aid. The fuel line to it could be clogged and the element still active. Look at the intake manifold for a boss with a device screwed into it and supplied with an electrical connection and a fuel tube. If you have it, you have a Thermostart. Whatever you do, do not try starting it with starting fluid. The heating element may be active and if it is you'll blow off the intake manifold. If you have to use starting fluid, disconnect the electrical connetion on the Thermostart

 

[MMagis]

Are you sure you’re pressing the clutch pedal down enough? Take a look under the foot rest and you can adjust it if needed.