TC 33DA - Fuse, Alternator, or Battery Problem?

[GreenAcres]

We have a TC 33 DA 4WD hydrostat with front end loader.


My husband asked me to post this for him:


We have had a problem for over a half of a year now, intermittant, but getting more frequent as time passes.


When we go to start the tractor, it often times will not start. The yellow light that signifies that the engine heater is on will light up. After it goes off and I turn the ignition key to the "START position" the thing just does not turn over. Sometimes I might hear a click when this happens, other times I hear nothing at all.


I have found over time that when this happens, a red fuse (specifically the #2 fuse on the block, a red one, which is a 10 amp fuse) has blown. The owner's manual refers to this fuse as the "alternator, safety start circuit" fuse.


I will replace the fuse, and once I do, most of the time the tractor will start properly. Every now and then, I have to replace the red fuse a second time, because the machine will blow the brand new fuse.


This problem, as I have said before, is intermittent, though it seems to be happening with greater frequency as time goes on. There is never any warning when it will -- or will not -- happen. No warning light comes on to give me a "heads up" that it is going to happen. Nothing me or my wife do or do not do seems to influence whether or not this is going to happen.


When this problem first started happening, about 9 or 10 months ago, I changed the battery. The battery was five years old at that point (the original factory installed battery), so it was about time to replace it anyway.


I bought the best battery in its size that the local WalMart carried. I don't skimp when it comes to replacement parts for my tractor.


About the second to last time I went to use the tractor, I had to charge the battery before I could use it. That is the only time this has happened. I got to wondering if there was something bad about the battery, so I brought the battery to WalMart for testing. They tested it, and said it was good, so I took it home and put it on charge. The tractor started after I charged the battery AND changed the #2 red fuse.


At one point last summer, my wife overheated the engine by pushing the tractor too hard on a rainy day. The engine smoked (black smoke) and she had to leave it in the field for the afternoon, but the next day it started right up. The problem I am describing here started BEFORE my wife overheated that engine, and best I can tell, is probably unrelated to that incident.


After she overheated the engine, I took a power washer to the engine and cleaned it really good, but that too was something that I did AFTER the problem began, and I don't think it is related to the problem that I am writing about.


I am hoping that you guys can help me figure out what is wrong with this tractor. I have general experience in electronics and automotives, but I do not have much experience with diesel engines or tractors.


I am hoping to fix the problem myself, but if I cannot, I would appreciate you helping me to figure out what it is that the dealer would need to look into or do to fix this problem.


Thank you in advance for your assistance in this.

 

[RickB]

Most of the time replacing the 10 amp fuse with a 10 amp circuit breaker of the same physical style is a plug-in cure for that problem. Alternatively, there is a wiring update that includes installing an additional relay that can be effective. Both of these cures assume that there is no failing components directly causing the fuse to blow. A fully charged battery, clean battery connections and battery cables without high resistance are all important relative to your symptoms.

 

[cardenharry]

You might go to the top of the screen under search and type in DX33.
There are several postings that might solve your problem. Fixed mine.

 

[jinman]

I found one of these at AutoZone and I'm sure that NAPA carries a similar circuit breaker. That's what I put in my tractor and no longer have to worry about a blown Fuse #2. You can break off the legs to the proper length and they perfectly replace a fuse. They are auto-reset, so after they open, they reset themselves after a few seconds.

 

[MikeBurr]

I too had the same problems with my 33da, went thru all the steps given in previous post to fix the electrical system, but i still had the problems when starting. What finally fix the the problem was that I ran a single 12v wire from the firewall to the tractor frame, problems have not returned. Tractor now starting and running like new. I'm guessing the some where in the design the electrics that hook up to the firewall lose the grounding needed for the componts to work correctly. Could also be that some part that proved the ground is now worn or lose so that the ground no longer provides good contact to complete the circuits.

 

[RickB]

I too had the same problems with my 33da, went thru all the steps given in previous post to fix the electrical system, but i still had the problems when starting. What finally fix the the problem was that I ran a single 12v wire from the firewall to the tractor frame, problems have not returned. Tractor now starting and running like new. I'm guessing the some where in the design the electrics that hook up to the firewall lose the grounding needed for the componts to work correctly. Could also be that some part that proved the ground is now worn or lose so that the ground no longer provides good contact to complete the circuits.

That's quite interesting. I'm going to file that nugget away. Wonder if I will be able to retrieve it when necessary?

 

[dqdave1]

Where do you attach wire to firewall; as firewall is plastic?

 

[RickB]

Where do you attach wire to firewall; as firewall is plastic?

Actually, it is steel.

 

[dqdave1]

Thanks for the correction. I was thinking the firewall was the plastic piece that the two panels below the steering column attach to by hood.

 

[MikePA]

I too had the same problems with my 33da, went thru all the steps given in previous post to fix the electrical system, but i still had the problems when starting. What finally fix the the problem was that I ran a single 12v wire from the firewall to the tractor frame, problems have not returned. Tractor now starting and running like new. I'm guessing the some where in the design the electrics that hook up to the firewall lose the grounding needed for the componts to work correctly. Could also be that some part that proved the ground is now worn or lose so that the ground no longer provides good contact to complete the circuits.

Just to be clear what you did...You ran a new grounding wire from the firewall to the frame, not a wire carry current, right? I ask because you mentioned running a 12v wire. Just trying to be certain what fixed the problem for you.