New to tractors ford 1700 question.

[Allee]

Yes, I'm pretty sure the tach is stuck. I've had it out of the dash and can't seem to be able to take it apart without a drill or de-crimping the sides. I had a new cable installed but something froze up, broke off the needle (in the case) and shredded the cable housing. I had previously removed the cable because the end had snapped off or simply wasn't long enough. I don't really need the tach to operate the tractor but just it would be nice to monitor use, rpm's and maintenance. I'll remove the tach again or maybe get on line and see if I can find a used unit. Would any other model or year be interchangeable?

 

[JC-jetro]

Yes, I'm pretty sure the tach is stuck. I've had it out of the dash and can't seem to be able to take it apart without a drill or de-crimping the sides. I had a new cable installed but something froze up, broke off the needle (in the case) and shredded the cable housing. I had previously removed the cable because the end had snapped off or simply wasn't long enough. I don't really need the tach to operate the tractor but just it would be nice to monitor use, rpm's and maintenance. I'll remove the tach again or maybe get on line and see if I can find a used unit. Would any other model or year be interchangeable?

Allee,

This what I would do if I were you. look at the pic below. This the oem tach that also accommodates two light, one for Alt and other for Oil pressure. You need to take those two lights and remote them by knocking out two holes on dash and mount some 12 volt bulbs. Can't be too difficult to do. Make yourself two stickers to see which on is which and you'll be good to go. Need to look at your gauge and figure out engine rpm to pto rpm, like 2400 engine rpm being same as 540 pto rpm. I would then buy any ole tach that you could. the tach you find might have a smaller dia than oem and you got to figure something there.. may be little bit of tin work.

JC,

The light just pulls out from the bottom of the oem tach.

 

[Allee]

Wow! I'm always amazed how how clean your tractor is. What a find. I looked for a salvage yard that might have a tach but after hours of searching came up with nothing. All of my wiring is old and even my rubber encasements are in pretty bad shape. I may have to retrofit ther entire operation at some time in the future. I'll take what you've posted under consideration. Thanks again.

 

[michael.white]

VDO makes some nice tachometers that work with diesel engines and are analog adjustable for various pulley sizes; you could likely retrofit one of those. VDO also sells hour meters.

 

[Allee]

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

 

[Rlutterb]

I've read this entire thread, what a nice intro to the 1700.
I just bought a 1600 with aloader. How similar can I expect the two models to be? From my readings of this thread, they sound almost identical.

The proof meter is not working and is filthy on the inside with the needle sitting sideways at the bottom of the guage, so I have no idea how many hours are on it. The tractor has a good deal of surface rust, but with the exception of the proof meter everything worked untill the day it was dropped off at the house. It started fine when the fine gentleman from whom I purchased it pulled it off his trailer, but then the next day it would not crank. I can use a jump box to the starter and it fires right up (glow plugs seem fine), but the key won't do it, no clicking, no noise, nothing. He told me it was the 'clutch safety switch' and he'd be willing to look at it, but its been a week and I don't expect he'll be out to help me (nor is he really obligated to do so I guess) but from what I am reading, there is not one safety switch dedicated to the clutch, just one for ensureing it's in neutral? Can anyone give me clarity here and tell me where the switch(s) are? I have the ordered an original operators manual, wiring diagram, and shop manual so i can educate myself on this cool old tractor. Plan to use it on 8 acres to brush hog, plow snow, maintain a gravel driveway, dig some serious post holes.

So basically for now just two questions -
1) where are the neutral safety switches cause the wife is pissed I bought a tractor that won't start!
2) are the 1600 and 1700 pretty similar to one another?

 

[JC-jetro]

I've read this entire thread, what a nice intro to the 1700.
I just bought a 1600 with aloader. How similar can I expect the two models to be? From my readings of this thread, they sound almost identical.

The proof meter is not working and is filthy on the inside with the needle sitting sideways at the bottom of the guage, so I have no idea how many hours are on it. The tractor has a good deal of surface rust, but with the exception of the proof meter everything worked untill the day it was dropped off at the house. It started fine when the fine gentleman from whom I purchased it pulled it off his trailer, but then the next day it would not crank. I can use a jump box to the starter and it fires right up (glow plugs seem fine), but the key won't do it, no clicking, no noise, nothing. He told me it was the 'clutch safety switch' and he'd be willing to look at it, but its been a week and I don't expect he'll be out to help me (nor is he really obligated to do so I guess) but from what I am reading, there is not one safety switch dedicated to the clutch, just one for ensureing it's in neutral? Can anyone give me clarity here and tell me where the switch(s) are? I have the ordered an original operators manual, wiring diagram, and shop manual so i can educate myself on this cool old tractor. Plan to use it on 8 acres to brush hog, plow snow, maintain a gravel driveway, dig some serious post holes.

So basically for now just two questions -
1) where are the neutral safety switches cause the wife is pissed I bought a tractor that won't start!
2) are the 1600 and 1700 pretty similar to one another?

Please read the link below. Look at the post #9 with a pic for 1700. You need to look at the clutch mechanism and it mechanism. Somewhere it has to activate a normally open switch closed by pressing the clutch to complete ignition circuit. This is to avoid tractor moving forward if in gear and you start.. not a good thing. You can for the purpose of testing jump the wires to see if tractor start. You can simply test the switch with a test light or ohm meter like it is pictured.

JC,


PS. Look at Post #5 of your new thread. I answered your question there as well.


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-tc-35-a.html?highlight=Neutral+safety+switch

 

[Rlutterb]

Ok, i found my switch, not in the same place as the one on the 1700 pictured earlier in this thread. Mine is under the left footrest near the back. Pick attached, simple to bypass and she started right up. When i have time i will work to repair or replace it

 

[JC-jetro]

Ok, i found my switch, not in the same place as the one on the 1700 pictured earlier in this thread. Mine is under the left footrest near the back. Pick attached, simple to bypass and she started right up. When i have time i will work to repair or replace it

I always like to do a postmortem on dead part. You might have rusty contact on the switch. I'd take a rubber cover off and start looking to see if I can open up the switch to see the innards. You might be able to clean the contact and reuse it again.

JC<

 

[Rlutterb]

Next set of questions ..........leaky hydro. My joystick drips from the right lever, and a cylinder on the bucket drips. Are these tough to repair?
Also, any comments on how similar a 1600 is to a 1700?