JC-jetro
Elite Member
BG,
it's been several years since I have done it. I had to trim the end a tad for good fit but dia was perfect and it never leaked in the last 4 years.
JC,
New to tractors ford 1700 question.
- Thread starter BG4985
- Start date
BG,
it's been several years since I have done it. I had to trim the end a tad for good fit but dia was perfect and it never leaked in the last 4 years.
JC,
Do you remember if it was that 71718 hose or not because that sku is #5371880 for the 71718 hose.
In your post you had hose 71718 sku #5191785 (which comes back to the 71303 hose with sku# 5191785). Believe me im not complaining...i just wanted to point it out because i know a lot of people use your tips about the aftermarket hoses. I had bought both and used the 71718 hose with a sku of #5371880 for the lower. Thanks again...i wouldnt of gotten close without your help on it.
In your post you had hose 71718 sku #5191785 (which comes back to the 71303 hose with sku# 5191785). Believe me im not complaining...i just wanted to point it out because i know a lot of people use your tips about the aftermarket hoses. I had bought both and used the 71718 hose with a sku of #5371880 for the lower. Thanks again...i wouldnt of gotten close without your help on it.
old1500
Silver Member
I am not trying to hijack the 1700 thread, but a lot of the 1700 stuff looks a lot like the 1500 stuff...I am currently working on a 1500, but did use it a while to see what I had.
Mine is in landscape-dress like your 1700 I see here in the pics. I have had small hp "other tractor brands" and have came to the conclusion these 1500-1700's are built a lot like a tank in some respects as opposed to some of the other Japanese tractors. I am not knocking Kubota or Yanmar either....just making an observation about what I can see vs. what I have owned.
The parts are pricey like mentioned above, but I have found several items off e-bay and other sites along the way. I re-wired mine too and eliminated a lot of unnecessary (for me) junk. Like....why do I need a horn or flashers! I also removed the safety switch at the clutch-pedal, but that is a matter of your feel for personal safety. In my view....any possible link in the chain that could cause trouble, I remove it if possible. My wiring at the alternator looked about like yours does, so I re-worked all that. The harness is not that long and once you peel-off the old tape, most of the existing wiring can be used. When I first reconnected my burned-off lead to the alternator (was not charging when I bought it)...I blew all the headlights as the voltage shot up to around 16v. I replaced the mechanical regulator with one off e-bay for around $30 and solved that problem.
My main issue at the moment is steering slack. My cross-shaft actually moves a good bit when the wheel is turned, so I am in for a replacement load deck or bushing....if there is a bushing in there. This will be my next venture to get into. I might wind up at the machine shop as opposed to giving somebody $600 for a new load deck.
These other guys have done a lot more stuff to these little 15 and 1700's than I have, but I will be happy to help you solve anything I can. You are walking in my tracks! First thing I'd do is consider that battery tray. On mine...the battery had rubbed the radiator and I sprung for a new radiator and re-worked the battery tray with one from a Chevy pick-up that will not move.
Mine is in landscape-dress like your 1700 I see here in the pics. I have had small hp "other tractor brands" and have came to the conclusion these 1500-1700's are built a lot like a tank in some respects as opposed to some of the other Japanese tractors. I am not knocking Kubota or Yanmar either....just making an observation about what I can see vs. what I have owned.
The parts are pricey like mentioned above, but I have found several items off e-bay and other sites along the way. I re-wired mine too and eliminated a lot of unnecessary (for me) junk. Like....why do I need a horn or flashers! I also removed the safety switch at the clutch-pedal, but that is a matter of your feel for personal safety. In my view....any possible link in the chain that could cause trouble, I remove it if possible. My wiring at the alternator looked about like yours does, so I re-worked all that. The harness is not that long and once you peel-off the old tape, most of the existing wiring can be used. When I first reconnected my burned-off lead to the alternator (was not charging when I bought it)...I blew all the headlights as the voltage shot up to around 16v. I replaced the mechanical regulator with one off e-bay for around $30 and solved that problem.
My main issue at the moment is steering slack. My cross-shaft actually moves a good bit when the wheel is turned, so I am in for a replacement load deck or bushing....if there is a bushing in there. This will be my next venture to get into. I might wind up at the machine shop as opposed to giving somebody $600 for a new load deck.
These other guys have done a lot more stuff to these little 15 and 1700's than I have, but I will be happy to help you solve anything I can. You are walking in my tracks! First thing I'd do is consider that battery tray. On mine...the battery had rubbed the radiator and I sprung for a new radiator and re-worked the battery tray with one from a Chevy pick-up that will not move.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Are you kiddin me? I can't rememberer what I had for supper last night
. I went to my handy notes and the hose # was 71718CS rather than 71718.When I changed my hoses, I drained the system first and took the hoses with me. I knew one of the guys at the counter and he suggested me to go to back of the store and eyeball, compare and contrast and pick the best matching one. SKU's don't always stay the same and it might have changed and obviously I don't keep up with that. I still have my old ones in a bucket for future reference if I need.
JC,
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JC-jetro
Elite Member
old,
I have not disassembled my steering mechanism and only checked the oil in the mechanism. I did have a bit of slop, slack with mine too. Below you see the pic of my 1700 steering column. There is a nut and crew on the housing cover. I simply loosened the nut (the big nut in the middle) and using a screwdriver turned the screw clockwise and it corrected some of the slop but not all. That was good enough for me. I kept the screw in the same position with a screwdriver and tightened the nut with a box end wrench.
JC,
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old1500
Silver Member
My 1500 looks the same as yours and I think the units for the 1300, 1500 and 1700 are the same. I also adjusted the screw and took out a little slack, but in my research, I discovered Ford/NH made a change in the 83 model years. 79-82 boxes had no bushing....they got smarter and installed a bushing in 83. The 83 and newer PN is SBA334292131. The earlier years are SBA334210051.
I have found replacements for the newer 1700 box for $596. However...I see no reason at all why a good machinist can't re-size the shaft opening and install a bushing in there for a LOT less. I am going to get by with mine the way it is and that fix will be a good winter project. That (and the battery tray arrangement) is the weakest part I see in this tractor and be sure not to overlook that battery tray. I think I see some "scars" on a radiator already in one of the pictures in this thread and the cheapest one of those you can find is a tad over $400. That is a bargain considering the dealership wants $1100 for one. I cut the legs off the rusted-out unit in mine and welded an auto tray with the hold-down grommet in there....it ain't moving short of a head-on collision with a freight train.
I have found replacements for the newer 1700 box for $596. However...I see no reason at all why a good machinist can't re-size the shaft opening and install a bushing in there for a LOT less. I am going to get by with mine the way it is and that fix will be a good winter project. That (and the battery tray arrangement) is the weakest part I see in this tractor and be sure not to overlook that battery tray. I think I see some "scars" on a radiator already in one of the pictures in this thread and the cheapest one of those you can find is a tad over $400. That is a bargain considering the dealership wants $1100 for one. I cut the legs off the rusted-out unit in mine and welded an auto tray with the hold-down grommet in there....it ain't moving short of a head-on collision with a freight train.
So much for getting it together today..I made the mistake of reading one of JC's posts about how easy it was to remove the tank to get at the wires. So this morning, i took the fuel tank off and started tracing wires. Guess what? at least 7 wires not connected to anything. Including, glow plug, oil sensor, clutch safety, wires connected in a circle, idiot lights...need i say more. Frankly im amazed the thing started up like it did when i got it.:confused2: Broke out the wiring diagram found the colors didnt match up nor did they correspond to the order on the connectors. I started stripping everything at that point. I think i found out why the glow plug wasnt hooked up due to the aftermarket starter. No location for the Heat option, all the other prongs give continuous power, so i ran a wire to the switch above the headlights to use just for the glow plug. (moved the lights back to the orginal switch) I know its not pretty but at this point its going to have to work until i can get a diff ign switch. (rewired everything the best i could, oil sensor, clutch safety, idiot lights, fuse box) Lets hope since its sunday tomorrow that someone up above will be on my side and it will actually start. Oh 1500, i adjusted the steering box like JC and took about 5 inches of play out of it. Did you check the fluid level in the box, youll love this.. that steering box of mine is filled with grease instead of oil
BWBrown
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2007
- Messages
- 84
- Tractor
- Ford 1700, IH 2500A
In servicing your steering, make sure things are adjusted correctly.
Each wheel has a steering stop bolt. Mine were never adjusted correctly from new.
Hitting a ridge or rock put great stress on the linkage and box instead of hitting the steering stop bolts. Damaged steering components several times 'til I figured out the problem.
Bob
Each wheel has a steering stop bolt. Mine were never adjusted correctly from new.
Hitting a ridge or rock put great stress on the linkage and box instead of hitting the steering stop bolts. Damaged steering components several times 'til I figured out the problem.
Bob
old1500
Silver Member
BG....that is a testimonial as to just how tuff these little buggers really are. They will run no matter what some idiot does to by-pass or "field-repair" the thing. The factory normally uses one wiring harness for a model and just leaves the wires not needed dangling in the harness. Some people just have to make it run right then one-way-or-another and will take whatever shortcut necessary to make that happen, like run a new wire and tie-wrap it to the harness as opposed to fixing the wire....etc. It's just the nature of purchasing a used machine.
A man could get carried away and start replacing everything with factory components, but you will soon have as much in the rebuild as you would a new tractor.
When you get right down to it, all you need is a momentary switch to turn on the heaters, a button to engage the solenoid, a good starter to make her crank and a little alternator/regulator to keep a trickle charge on the battery. All the rest of the electrical gadgetry is a convenience. You can screw an oil pressure and temperature gauge in the sender ports and look at them now-and-again if that is a concern.
First thing I did was strip out all the old wiring, go to the wiring diagram and just build-back what was necessary.
Shibaura took an alternate approach to the starter. They put a BIG one on as opposed to using a little starter and a compression release. That is likely why some guy put the wrong starter on, he refused to pay the extra bucks for the stock replacement that cost twice as much.
Unless you want it to, it doesn't have to look just like it did when it left the factory. Just "make it your own". I am even making my on grille as opposed to giving somebody else $400 for a piece of plastic. The junk yards are full of vehicles with a Ford emblem on them and a nice chrome Ford logo is going to look real good bolted onto my homemade grille.
A man could get carried away and start replacing everything with factory components, but you will soon have as much in the rebuild as you would a new tractor.
When you get right down to it, all you need is a momentary switch to turn on the heaters, a button to engage the solenoid, a good starter to make her crank and a little alternator/regulator to keep a trickle charge on the battery. All the rest of the electrical gadgetry is a convenience. You can screw an oil pressure and temperature gauge in the sender ports and look at them now-and-again if that is a concern.
First thing I did was strip out all the old wiring, go to the wiring diagram and just build-back what was necessary.
Shibaura took an alternate approach to the starter. They put a BIG one on as opposed to using a little starter and a compression release. That is likely why some guy put the wrong starter on, he refused to pay the extra bucks for the stock replacement that cost twice as much.
Unless you want it to, it doesn't have to look just like it did when it left the factory. Just "make it your own". I am even making my on grille as opposed to giving somebody else $400 for a piece of plastic. The junk yards are full of vehicles with a Ford emblem on them and a nice chrome Ford logo is going to look real good bolted onto my homemade grille.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
So much for getting it together today..I made the mistake of reading one of JC's posts about how easy it was to remove the tank to get at the wires. Oh 1500, i adjusted the steering box like JC and took about 5 inches of play out of it. Did you check the fluid level in the box, youll love this.. that steering box of mine is filled with grease instead of oil
BG,
I bet you taking the tank off did not take but 5 minutes, but I don't remember I claimed the same about fixing the wiring harness. All are exposed as soon as tank come off but making head or tails of the wiring is another issue. You should have Ford 134 in the steering box. Mine looked like grease as well due to not ever being changed and be such a small volume that caused it to dry out. If you do not want to disassemble further, I'd suggest you to take a funnel and top it off with ford 134, same hyd fluid used in the transmission and hyd lift.
JC,
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