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  1. #61
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    3,194
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    Ford 1700, Kubota MX-4700

    Default Re: New to tractors ford 1700 question.

    Quote Originally Posted by BG4985 View Post
    No remote hyd connections on it.... i read some of the posts after a search of draft control. So basically this lever is used to set the lowest height that i want it to lower down to? So when im running the hog i should set it and then just use the main lever to raise it if i run over something big like a log or so? JC i took some pics of where it connects, sorry it doesnt show much.
    BG,

    Picture #3 proves it. it is a draft control. Using a brush hog is not considered as ground engaging implement. Using a brush hog and you need to only use your lift lever. if you use a potato plow AKA middle buster, sub-soiler or a disk then you set the depth you intend to dig in and it accommodates for hardness of ground , angle of attack and other adjustment to maintain a constant depth as you pull forward. Just disregard it for now till you have a need for it.

    JC,
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

  2. #62
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Posts
    1,444
    Location
    South-central Michigan
    Tractor
    New Holland TC40D

    Default Re: New to tractors ford 1700 question.

    Quote Originally Posted by JC-jetro View Post
    BG,

    Picture #3 proves it. it is a draft control. Using a brush hog is not considered as ground engaging implement. Using a brush hog and you need to only use your lift lever. if you use a potato plow AKA middle buster, sub-soiler or a disk then you set the depth you intend to dig in and it accommodates for hardness of ground , angle of attack and other adjustment to maintain a constant depth as you pull forward. Just disregard it for now till you have a need for it.

    JC,
    Not to split hairs, but doesn't the draft attempt to maintain a constant force on the top link (once set) rather than a constant depth? Isn't the depth the parameter that likely will be manipulated (without having to touch the position control) by the draft feature? I always heard that was the beauty of draft - no constant monkeying with the position when the going gets a little tough or there's highly variable conditions. Please feel free to correct me where I'm wrong.

  3. #63
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    35
    Location
    Polk county Florida
    Tractor
    ford 1700

    Default Re: New to tractors ford 1700 question.

    Update- Got out on the tractor yesterday and ran it from 0900-1300... Had an amusing experience for the neighbors (frustrating and embarising for me) when on the very first past around the perimeter I got the tail wheel of the bush hog hung up on the fence while i was trying to cut and turn the corner. Unhooked the fence and then slid (front wheels off the ground) into the other fence thereby locking me up in the corner. By now im sure the neighbors were getting a saturday chuckle out of watching me try to get it out for 3-5 minutes or so of inch worming back and forth. After getting out i scraped my pride off the ground and switched to a slower gear. This worked alot better for me and let me really get used to the space required when turning. Tractor temp stayed at about 160deg the whole time and i tried to keep it at 2100-2400 rmp. I say tried because the throttle was loose so if i let go it would gradually ease down, kept my hand on it the entire time. Got everything cut and when i put it back in the garage...i noticed that it was leaking a little oil (drop every 10 seconds or so) either from around/behind the injector pump or somewhere in that area. Once the tractor was off all leaking ceased. No strange noises, banging or clicking. I checked the main oil and the level is still good to go. Should i drain the injector oil out and replace it again? Is there a place i should be looking for the leak that is more common than others? All engine lights/gauges stayed where they should during the run as i constantly watched them being the first time really running it hard since i bought it. Thanks for everyones help i thought i would give you a good chuckle with my fence story (why let the neighbors have the only fun).

  4. #64
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    503

    Default Re: New to tractors ford 1700 question.

    Sorry, we forgot to tell you about wide turns on brush-hogs. Don't know what to tell you about the leak. Try to wipe off the oil and run a short time to see if you can find it. You may want to check the pump level first to see if its low if you can do it without disassembling it. Can it be a fuel leak?
    Oh, I forgot to tell you I had a similar experiance once with my plow and a wood fence. We all learn from those memory lapses.

  5. #65
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    3,194
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    Ford 1700, Kubota MX-4700

    Default Re: New to tractors ford 1700 question.

    Hey BG,

    Don't get embarrassed as we all have done something not to be too proud of. On my first attempt mowing I got myself firmly stuck in a drainage ditch between front of my property and the road. My angle of attack going in to the ditch considering me dragging a brush hog from behind let just say way way off. It was when I had a bit of issue with my lift system too and ended up walking back to my vehicle (1/2) mile to get a pry bar to separate my lift arm from the tractor and free it up. Then had to drag the brash hog side ways out of the ditch. I was at it for about an hr and I bet you some neighbor with a binocular having a good laugh at my expense.


    As ray said, let's figure out what is the liqiuid leaking out first, engine oil ( i know your level looked okay), hydraulic fluid or diesel. Oil in the injector need to be drained every 300 hrs. you do not need to redo it unless the leak in from there. I'd put card board under your the tractor, start it move the lift up and done with some load on 3 point, rev the engine up and down and wait. report with the specific and we might be able to help better.


    JC,
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

  6. #66
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    113
    Location
    Southern US
    Tractor
    Ford 1500

    Default Re: New to tractors ford 1700 question.

    BG....I told you go out and cut all those shrubs and flower beds first....(chuckle). That would have offered some practice. When a horse gets hung-up in a fence...they call it "being cast"....you just casted your machinery under the fence. Myself...well...I managed to get one bogged down so bad the bush-hog was out of site and I had the tractor stuck so bad it would not get itself out of the hole. A come-along or a chain hoist can come in might handy as long as you have a tree nearby.

    JC has mentioned the oil. I do know that on my 1500 there is some adjustments down on the throttle rod you can make. There is a flat spring in there (I think) in a wafer arrangement and another spring (bent steel) on top of that gizmo. I had just the oppose throttle problem...I could hardly move mine with both hands, but some oil cured my problem. Maybe yours can be tightened.

  7. #67
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    35
    Location
    Polk county Florida
    Tractor
    ford 1700

    Default Re: New to tractors ford 1700 question.

    Ha, well thanks for the support and fellow stories of "i cant believe i just did this"..... I do know th.at the throttle can be adjusted as i had tightend it up during the wiring redo (obviously not enough though) so that wont be a problem. The leak is engine oil (well im 99.999999 percent sure it is) based on its smell, color and consistency. I had a light mist of oil on the injector bottom right corner, that area of the engine, down to the pan where it was dripping from (after running down from above) Thats why i think its up somewhere by the injector pump. Ill have to check out where it is coming from next week as i have a work project that will task me out this week.....more to come later thanks again!

  8. #68
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    503

    Default Re: New to tractors ford 1700 question.

    My Tip of the Day: I fixed the problem of getting my brush hog in a bind when mowing through dips. I found that when the rear wheel of my 3 pt brush cutter was forced up by higher ground (as going through a ditch) the top link was forcing it back down and binding the mower. So the simple solution to the problem was to replace the top link with a piece of chain the correct length with heavy links at each end to accomadate the link bolts. The chain works to hold the mower level, and works to lift the mower off the ground, but more importantly it releases downward pressure and lets the mower flex up to eliminate the binding. This works perfect in and through ditches. I leave the chain attached to the mower when not in use because that is the only use for the chain I have found so far. Pictures are available. Try it, you will like it.
    The chain however does not alter the effect of wide turns.
    Last edited by rayikeo2; 05-23-2010 at 12:30 PM. Reason: Add a comment

  9. #69
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    3,194
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    Ford 1700, Kubota MX-4700

    Default Re: New to tractors ford 1700 question.

    Quote Originally Posted by rayikeo2 View Post
    My Tip of the Day: I fixed the problem of getting my brush hog in a bind when mowing through dips. I found that when the rear wheel of my 3 pt brush cutter was forced up by higher ground (as going through a ditch) the top link was forcing it back down and binding the mower. So the simple solution to the problem was to replace the top link with a piece of chain the correct length with heavy links at each end to accomadate the link bolts. The chain works to hold the mower level, and works to lift the mower off the ground, but more importantly it releases downward pressure and lets the mower flex up to eliminate the binding. This works perfect in and through ditches. I leave the chain attached to the mower when not in use because that is the only use for the chain I have found so far. Pictures are available. Try it, you will like it.

    Good advice Ray, Thanks. My problem was my incorrect angle of attack and not raising the brush hog accordingly. I hate to drive sideways in the ditch ( Pucker Factor). Now with a comb nation of about 45 degree entry and raised deck can do it okay.


    JC,
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

  10. #70
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    35
    Location
    Polk county Florida
    Tractor
    ford 1700

    Default Re: New to tractors ford 1700 question.

    Got back to working on it today and had to add about 60ml of oil to the injector pump. I found the small plate 2x3 next to the sight screws had the bottom screw loose so im thinking that was the problem with it and where the leak was coming from. I also changed out the top link with a piece of chain and will give that a whirl the next time out. Thanks for the tips!

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