JC-jetro
Elite Member
BG,
Why don't you put a diaper on it to verify. I clean the injector first, wrap paper towel loosely around the injector pump and keep it in place by tape or rubber band and watch for tell tale sign.
JC,
New to tractors ford 1700 question.
- Thread starter BG4985
- Start date
BG,
Why don't you put a diaper on it to verify. I clean the injector first, wrap paper towel loosely around the injector pump and keep it in place by tape or rubber band and watch for tell tale sign.
JC,
Make sure the length of the chain is just enough to hold the mower level at the right height for mowing, or make it adjustable. It needs to be strong enough to support the weight of the mower + some.
HydrauLink
Silver Member
I'm not seeing any hydraulic connections here for a top link. If you decide you'd like to look into one, take a look at our self-contained unit, HydrauLink. It doesn't need any outside hydraulic assistance...it works right out of the box.
Bedlam
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2005
- Messages
- 1,870
Interesting concept..The reaching back could be a problem for some.. But its far better an improvement..No hoses etc.As I understand it there is no 'lift' power, other than to somehow 'cock' the implement to move the air to the other side of the ram?
HydrauLink
Silver Member
Correct! We've still not been able to get around that 2nd law of thermodynamics but we're working on it
Can't get something for nothing.Seriously though, we have a cab control in development right now for those who don't want to turn around. And if you watch the second video on our website, you'll see how the implement can be easily adjusted up or down.
Demonstration video
There's nothing too fancy about our videos but it will definately give you a good idea as to how it works.
Bedlam
Veteran Member
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- Feb 28, 2005
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Well, being lazy as i am .I got to thinking if the person who has this backed up to . something solid on the ground like a stack of blocks, and then lowered the furthest point of the implement on the blocks and then slowly opened the valve it would ''reset' it so to say to the highest point.
All in all its an interesteting item for sure. I have always wondered about some sort of small electric geared down motor to turn the regular screw part of the link.
All in all its an interesteting item for sure. I have always wondered about some sort of small electric geared down motor to turn the regular screw part of the link.
HydrauLink
Silver Member
Rest assured.... HydrauLink was developed by lazy people for lazy people... haha
I see what you're talking about on the screw part of the jack. Most people onle only adjust that part once to make it fit their particular tractor. After that, the adjustments are made through the needle valve. You have the right idea for raising the implement EXCEPT it's not nearly that hard. You can do it on any surface. You won't need blocks or anything like that to raise it.
Hooking up HydrauLink is easy, (http://hydraulink.net/HydrauLink_Instructions.pdf). Raising or lowering it a matter of opening and closing the valve. Raising the implement means you open the valve and then lower the 3 point all the way to the ground. This pushes the implement into whatever position you want it in...close the valve again and you're set.
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Bedlam
Veteran Member
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Ahhh Got it.. Maybe you should start another Thread with this Others will see it. etc. Its kind of buried in the 1700 thread.Ill start another one for the others. Didn't mean to hijack this one. Thanks
My battery light wont go off after starting now, i thought it might be the old belt which was pretty much maxed out on the adjustment and maybe wasnt tight enough to spin the alternator, but after changing it out to the brand new belt its still not going off. Tractor is still running good and starts on the first time every time after pre heating for about 10 seconds. Is the light just the indicator that the alternator is sending juice back to the battery or could it be another problem that im not seeing? All wires and connections are tight, noticed it after starting it the next time after mowing ( light was off when i parked it) Since im new to the tractors i watch the gauges like a hawk.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
BG,
The light coming on with the your description is almost always a problem with the charging system that could be attributed to external voltage regulator, alternator and or rectifier bridge (a diode set up to turn alternating generated current to direct battery current) to be determined by process of elimination. I'd take the battery leads off and inspect every contact and wire for rust and corrosion. I'd user a dremmel tool and a brass brush and make sure all copper contacts are nice and shiny. I put the battery leads on, start the tractor and see if the light is still on. I'd then measure voltage and current during idle , mid range rpm and rated 2500 rpm for your 1700. Take the measurements and report back to see how things are. There is a link below that explains similar problem that one of the members had. You'll find the info you need starting in the page #3. There is a ton of info there that does not need to be repeated here. Read the info below, do the test and report back.
I think 9 out of 10 the issue resides with diode going bad that is very simple to replace if you can find the part easily. I don't have time tonight to look at the thread again, but I thought John (the OP) was able to find the diode that had to be soldered in. Report back with your findings.
JC,
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/106389-ford-1700-any-help.html
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