Mowing NH 273 hay baler

[dan1795]

I have a NH 273 haybaler that is creating a serious problem for me. The baler keeps breaking shear pins on the flywheel. I have had a $300.00 service call from the local farm machinery shop, no luck there, I have replaced the brake pads on the twister/knotter, the baler is in time but after I start baling in the field, the shear pin breaks after about every 5 or 6 bales. I winter about 20 cows and I am running out of time to get the hay in the barn. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

[dan1795]

I have a NH 273 haybaler that is creating a serious problem for me. The baler keeps breaking shear pins on the flywheel. I have had a $300.00 service call from the local farm machinery shop, no luck there, I have replaced the brake pads on the twister/knotter, the baler is in time but after I start baling in the field, the shear pin breaks after about every 5 or 6 bales. I winter about 20 cows and I am running out of time to get the hay in the barn. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

[sweettractors]

If everything else checks out, your cutting knives may be dull or too much clearance between them. Check the ram bearings that push the cutter blade. Ken Sweet

 

[kidr]

Be sure the hay is really dry. The 273 will not handle any kind of wet hay.Set the clutch to specs, don't eyeball it, use a scale. Run at low rpm.

 

[sweettractors]

Used only New Holland shearbolts. Ken Sweet

 

[redneckford]

Used only New Holland shearbolts. Ken Sweet

be sure and check the needle protection dog under the plunger crank arm----the welded pipe coupling welded on the left side of the baler will crack loose allowing the dog to engage slightly and cause the crank arm to barely hit the dog and when it rubs to hard it will cause the fly wheel shear pin to break----also check the brakes on the right side of the baler twister/knotter if it lets the neddle yoke drop just slightly the dog will stop the plunger crank arm and cause a shear pin failure----finally check the latch on the twister/knotter and adjust the dog lever to provide clearance for the crank arm and needle protection dog----get a service manual and an operaters manual and you can find most of the adjustment information for all moving parts -----little miss adjustments(it matters) can cause great head aches in baling and haying equipment

 

[RickB]

be sure and check the needle protection dog under the plunger crank arm----the welded pipe coupling welded on the left side of the baler will crack loose allowing the dog to engage slightly and cause the crank arm to barely hit the dog and when it rubs to hard it will cause the fly wheel shear pin to break----also check the brakes on the right side of the baler twister/knotter if it lets the neddle yoke drop just slightly the dog will stop the plunger crank arm and cause a shear pin failure----finally check the latch on the twister/knotter and adjust the dog lever to provide clearance for the crank arm and needle protection dog----get a service manual and an operaters manual and you can find most of the adjustment information for all moving parts -----little miss adjustments(it matters) can cause great head aches in baling and haying equipment

Good advise. Proper setting of the knotter 'home' position is one of the most important and seldom achieved adjustments on a small square baler. When properly adjusted, excessive brake tension is unnecessary. Many balers come from the factory with this setting out of whack.

 

[ntrujillo]

Are the needles starting to go in when it breaks a shear bolt? On my 575 balers they have a latch an the cable gets stretched. Also my older 575 baler, I have advanced the time to fix this problem.