JC-jetro
Elite Member
Howdy folks,
Here I am with another battle story and associated lessons learned. Hopefully other 1700 owners will be able to avoid the pickle I got myself in. I have been working hard to keep my shooting lanes open. Combination of lots of heat, lots of rain and lots of dry caused some super weeds in the back of my property. We only hay the front 12 acres open field.
As I was maneuvering ever so precisely around the trees and due to thick vegetation managed to hook the left tire on a stomp while moving slowly forward and mowing. It only took me an split second to clutch and tame the beast but my momentum caused the left front wheel to turn CCW for about 90 degrees. That rotational movement was carried thru the steering rod to steering arm. That was beyond the maximum rotational play of steering box. As a result my steering arm was over extended to the point that bend the arm but did not break it... thanks god.
I end up going back to the barn making mainly left turns as my right turn radius was close to width of a football field I put the front axle up of jack stands and started my postmortem analysis and realized I had a physical limit on the front wheel to hopefully stop the wheel rotation without any damage.
Then I proceeded to take the steering off.The pics below are self explanatory. I noticed a very small surface crack where the arm attached to the steering box. I ground a very shallow groove there for stress relief. I then used a HF pipe vice and a 4 foot cheater bar to bend it to submission and managed to crack the base of HF vise. There we go again for another HF tool that sucks. I then took it to work and went to the guys shop, called up a beefy fellow, a heavy vice and couple of other guys to hold on to the table and with assistance of 6 foot cheater and no go. I just did not want to snap the arm in two. I ended up going to plan B and heated the sucker up and slowly straightened up to just about where it was. I left it to cool very slowly on the vice. I then took it home and used my cheesy mig welder and put a bead where I cut the groove. To my surprise it took the weld real well. The arm is cast but it appears to have enough iron to weld nicely.
A bit of ford blue enamel out of the can and my steering arm never looked better.
Tomorrow morning , I'll be putting it back together and and will adjust or try to adjust to see if I can take any flex off of the steering arm at full rotation to the left or right. I can easily move the ball joint in and out to adjust horizontal travel.
I don't believe anyone ever worked on it but in my estimation you should not able to ever flex the steering arm when you hit the wheel limit.
I appreciate your inputs.
JC,
Here I am with another battle story and associated lessons learned. Hopefully other 1700 owners will be able to avoid the pickle I got myself in. I have been working hard to keep my shooting lanes open. Combination of lots of heat, lots of rain and lots of dry caused some super weeds in the back of my property. We only hay the front 12 acres open field.
As I was maneuvering ever so precisely around the trees and due to thick vegetation managed to hook the left tire on a stomp while moving slowly forward and mowing. It only took me an split second to clutch and tame the beast but my momentum caused the left front wheel to turn CCW for about 90 degrees. That rotational movement was carried thru the steering rod to steering arm. That was beyond the maximum rotational play of steering box. As a result my steering arm was over extended to the point that bend the arm but did not break it... thanks god.
I end up going back to the barn making mainly left turns as my right turn radius was close to width of a football field I put the front axle up of jack stands and started my postmortem analysis and realized I had a physical limit on the front wheel to hopefully stop the wheel rotation without any damage.
Then I proceeded to take the steering off.The pics below are self explanatory. I noticed a very small surface crack where the arm attached to the steering box. I ground a very shallow groove there for stress relief. I then used a HF pipe vice and a 4 foot cheater bar to bend it to submission and managed to crack the base of HF vise. There we go again for another HF tool that sucks. I then took it to work and went to the guys shop, called up a beefy fellow, a heavy vice and couple of other guys to hold on to the table and with assistance of 6 foot cheater and no go. I just did not want to snap the arm in two. I ended up going to plan B and heated the sucker up and slowly straightened up to just about where it was. I left it to cool very slowly on the vice. I then took it home and used my cheesy mig welder and put a bead where I cut the groove. To my surprise it took the weld real well. The arm is cast but it appears to have enough iron to weld nicely.
A bit of ford blue enamel out of the can and my steering arm never looked better.
Tomorrow morning , I'll be putting it back together and and will adjust or try to adjust to see if I can take any flex off of the steering arm at full rotation to the left or right. I can easily move the ball joint in and out to adjust horizontal travel.
I don't believe anyone ever worked on it but in my estimation you should not able to ever flex the steering arm when you hit the wheel limit.
I appreciate your inputs.
JC,
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