TC40 Rabbit / Turtle switch not working, switch and relays replaced.

[IsuzuDon]

Hi all,

My first posting so excuse me if I come across incorrectly. Let me also say, I am highly impressed with the knowledge that is contained within the New Holland forum. I have already saved numerous dollars by following the advise given here.
Problem:
I bought my TC40 used. When purchased, the rabbit / turtle switch would not go into transport speed. After reading the forum, I noticed it was a common problem. I replaced the switch and the two relays involved with the transport mode, and inspected the plug at the solinoid going into the transmission housing, and brake switch. All appear to be normal or satisfactory. I am assuming there is a way to test the solinoid, and or the circuit to confirm it is working properly. I, had also applied electric grease to the contacts to insure there would not be future corrosion in the fusebox or switch . I would truly appreciate any feedback to this problem I am having. I am not sure (new to this) If I get a message back on this, so please feel free to contact my private message. Thank you all and look forward to fixing my machine.

Don

 

[jinman]

:welcome: IsuzuDon! I hope you enjoy the forums and TBN.

There are several things we need to know about your tractor and some common terms we need to lock in so that the discussion does not become confusing.

The first thing about your tractor is whether it has a FEL and if that FEL is a 16LA. This is important because with an FEL, you have a rabbit/turtle switch on the right fender and also on the joystick of the 16LA FEL. If you have a loader other than NH, then the joystick switch won't be there. (See how this gets complicated in a hurry?)

The second thing is to refer to the speeds the same way that NH does. Your tractor has a Range lever on the left fender. It is Range I - Neutral - Range II. Most of us refer to range I and II as Low and High. The rabbit/turtle switch is just referred to as rabbit-turtle rather than calling one of the speeds "transport." I'm confused by what you mean as "transport mode."

When there is no power to the rabbit/turtle solenoid, the transmission reverts to turtle speed only. You can have low range/turtle and high/range turtle by changing the range lever on the fender, but you can never switch over to the rabbit speed. Is that the way your tractor works?

How about the orange lights on your fender switch? When you switch to rabbit or turtle, do the corresponding lights illuminate and stay on? If you switch with the joystick buttons, do the lights change on the fender switch also? Is the switch you replaced the fender switch or the joystick switch?

Don, I know I've asked lots of questions, but I don't want to have you checking something that is a waste of time. If you can give me a bit more info and we can use common terminology, I think we can resolve your problem. Here is what I will probably want to do (not necessarily in this order):

1. Make sure the rabbit/turtle solenoid is good.
2. Make sure the wiring is correct.
3. Make sure the switches are connected.
4. Make sure the FEL switch is not defeating the action of the fender switch.
5. Trace power through the circuit.

I think we can fix your problem, but it will just take a little time and patience.

 

[SuperCobra]

Seems obvious and maybe you already did this if you traced the wiring but look for a dangling plug. Happened to me and that is what it was. A plug came loose. I can go back out and look but if i recall correctly it is on the port side underneath the floor board around where your left foot would rest.

 

[jinman]

Seems obvious and maybe you already did this if you traced the wiring but look for a dangling plug. Happened to me and that is what it was. A plug came loose. I can go back out and look but if i recall correctly it is on the port side underneath the floor board around where your left foot would rest.

Shouldn't that be the port side underneath the deck? You gotta keep your nautical terms consistent.

I tend to agree with you, but Don said he checked the wires to the solenoid, so I would think he had confirmed that there were no breaks. He needs to check for 12 volts DC with the tractor running and the rabbit button depressed also. If he is getting voltage and the solenoid is not engaging, that's a whole different can-o'-worms. My guess is that the joystick switches might be stuck and kicking him back to turtle everytime he is going to rabbit. If he has a loader and can disconnect the plug going to the joystick switches, he can isolate his fender switch and test this out.

Also, Don mentioned a PM, so he might be not checking back and hoping for a PM alert from TBN. If he doesn't respond in a few days, I'll send him a PM and tell him he should log back in for help. The problem with PMs is you cannot do attachments and show circuits to check, so you are handicapped trying to offer advice through a PM.

 

[IsuzuDon]

Hi Guys, Don here again. Had some medical issues I was dealing with. Things were dark for a while, now better yet still hurtin. Here are a few things I had failed to note during my first post....

1.) I have a tractor only, no loader.... used Loader to go on soon.

2.) I replaced the rabbit switch on the fender, and it does light up (glow) on the rabbit side when the switch is moved on / engaged.

3.) Two new relays put into the fuse / relay box. These were for the transport (rabbit) mode.

4.) The brake switch not triggered. (not sure if important or not)

5.) Wires to the solinoid appear to be intacted and secure, wasn't sure if I could volt/ohm the solinoid and measure resistence or if I should measure voltage to and from solinoid.

6.) Yes, never switches to rabbit speed in either range. I had used the term tranport mode meaning the rabbit upper speed. I ran in high range, and it still is very slow(assuming turtle speed). My little 1620 hydro much quicker traveling down the road in it's high range.

7.) I cleaned the relay contact socket (female ports / relay blocks)and then coated with electric grease to prevent water,dust or other to get in to the contact points. I did the same on the switch.

8.) I have not pulled the solinoid out of the transmission. I am unsure of what is behind that item? (oil, or how it engages)

9.) I bought the tractor with 465 hrs on it. The wiring appears to be factory. The only item that was removed/ bypassed was the seat kill switch. (former owner cut and spliced)

I want to thank you for your help. I had checked back a few time for PM's and now know why it is a less used format. I happened to re-google the question and my post came up with your answers. Warm greetins to you from Buffalo, NY....Don

 

[ENTS]

...5.) Wires to the solinoid appear to be intacted and secure, wasn't sure if I could volt/ohm the solinoid and measure resistence or if I should measure voltage to and from solinoid.

I just got done repairing my coil on that solinoid. It measures around 8.8 ohms.

...8.) I have not pulled the solinoid out of the transmission. I am unsure of what is behind that item? (oil, or how it engages)

If you need to pull the coil, it's easy enough to do, there's a nut on the end, take that off, the spacer behind the nut, and then just slide the coil out.

Jim provided this when I was working on mine.

 

[IsuzuDon]

Hi and thanks for the diagram. I ahhhhh will attempt to remove coil as soon as I am able to clean a space in my garage. We are sitting on about a foot of snow. Just don't feel like laying in the snow. What did you have to do to repair your coil? wiring? or was it just stuck? Thanks again, good to hear from you guys. Best to you and your families....don

 

[lhfarm]

Welcome to TBN. Several of us have had problems with the Hi/Lo switch. Go to the search page and enter rabbit turtle switch. You will find a number of posts, including ENTS'. Lots of great, knowledgeable folks here who will help you get it fixed.

 

[ENTS]

... I ahhhhh will attempt to remove coil....

The only real reason to pull the coil would be if you do not have continuity thru the coil. You can check that while it's on the tractor. I had to pull mine because one of the wires was ripped off where it entered the coil. If you have good continuity thru the coil, check the wires on the tractor side, one should have ground on it. The other wire goes to the "Range Hi Shift Relay" (pin 5).

Later,

 

[jinman]

Fred, you are giving great advice. Thanks for jumping in and helping IsuzuDon. Your advice about checking the solenoid before attempting removal is exactly what I would do.

Don, are you really familiar with your meter? If you are, this is going to be a lot easier for all of us. If you are good at measuring ohms (especially low ohms below 10) and also know how to look for DC volts, that's all you need to troubleshoot. I think there is a good chance that you are having some relay problems and things are not "latching in" as they should. You also could have some other problems, but it's best to take things one step at a time and eliminate them before going to the next step. When we hear the results of your measuring the solenoid coil, we'll go to the next step. BTW: a long jumper wire with alligator clips on each end might also come in handy if you have one available.