Help setting up a top and tilt on a TC40-S

[nickel plate]

I thought I'd keep this tractor brand specific. I want to install a top and tilt system on my 2002 TC40-S to my Gearmore box scraper and need all the help I can get.
In the photo I have a set of NH installed female spools which I think would power the top link via the TC's remote lever to the right of the seat. In the photo and to the right of the two spools is a power beyond male/female hose connection from the tractor's hydraulic manifold block/diverter valve which is located just inside of the right rear tire which powers my Woods BH90-X backhoe. When the backhoe is not attached, these two fittings must be joined to re-activate the TC's 3-pt system. Is this where I could attach the tilt cylinder hoses and use the TC's 3-pt lever to activate the tilt cylinder?
Is there a complete kit (hydraulic cylinders, hoses,etc) that is TC-40S specific that I can purchase? I don't mind spending a few extra bucks for a fool proof package or can you tell me a good supplier, model and part numbers for cylinders and hoses that would be right for my tractor?
Jinman once posted to buy 36" hoses and loop and strap tie. I think he also said to make sure at least the top link cylinder be DPOCV equipped. Something to do with reducing the fluid pressure for fine adjusting the implement and for anti pressure leakage via a check valve?
Your suggestions and experience will be greatly appreciated.

 

[jinman]

I don't have time tonight to address this in the detail it requires, but I will give you my complete ideas in the morning. There are several good ways to go, but a single remote and a diverter is the method of choice with a single remote. That is considering you get both toplink and sidelink from CCM with DPOCVs. More details in the AM.

 

[jinman]

Okay, I am a bit better prepared to answer your question. Before I start discussing how to get two cylinders to work with one remote, I'd just like to say the preferred method is to get a 2nd remote at around $550. It's expensive, but will give you a lot more flexibility than a single remote. Also, your PB port hoses attach on the inlet side of your 3PH, so you cannot use the 3PH lever to control a remote through those hoses.

If you want to use the single remote, you want to have good tight cylinders that will stay where you put them. That's the function of the DPOCVs. You can set the cylinders and then disconnect input from them and never worry about the leaking down due to control valve internal leaks. The check valve will lock the cylinder wherever you leave it until you again supply input pressure.

For your toplink, you'll want the one that is 18"-26.5" cat. 1 and the hose kit for $45. For your sidelink, go to your tractor and measure the adjustable sidelink length from the top ball socket to the bottom fork hole center-to-center. Get one measurement at minimum and one near maximum before you run out of threads on the crank. That will tell you min/max and throw which equates to probably a 6" stroke sidelink cylinder. 36" hoses will work perfectly for both toplink and sidelink, but you might be able to get away with only 30" on the sidelink. To keep it simple, I'd specify 36" for both if using NH remotes for both cylinders. At CCM's website, they have a PDF file with questions. You won't need all that info on valves and mounting if you add an extra remote valve, but if you decide to go the diverter route for using a single remote for two cylinders, you'll have to do some planning and measurements based on where the diverter will be.

Here is a link to the Surplus Center diverter I would recommend. It's $149 and you will have to buy extra fittings and mounting hardware, so be prepared to spend $275 to $300 by the time you plumb this in and wire up an electrical circuit. I personally believe you could end up spending more on the diverter than to get a 2nd remote, but that will have to be your decision. I've included a couple of PDFs from Surplus Center's site as attachments. One shows the hydraulic specifications of the valve and the other shows how to install it into a circuit. Remember, you will have find a good mount and wire and plumb the diverter all on your own. I would not purchase the diverter until I had a full plan for all the installation steps.

Clearly, I am coming down on the side of getting the 2nd remote for your tractor and buying all the cylinders and hoses from CCM. That is by far the easiest and most elegant solution. Here is a parts list and pricing for the major components if you decide to go that way.

1. NH 2nd Remote kit - $511 (from Messicks.com)
2. CCM Toplink 18" to 26.5" - $185
3. CCM hose kit (36") with fittings - $45 (2 needed - $90)
4. CCM Custom sidelink - $245

TOTAL: $1031

In my opinion, that will be some to the best money you will ever spend. It gives you complete control from the operator's seat. :thumbsup:

 

[nickel plate]

Thanks Jim, you've given me a lot to think about.
After reading over your post a couple of times, I also think an additional set of remotes makes more sense than the hydraulic/electric diverter method and it looks like I can get my feet wet by starting out with what I already have to work with, a hydraulic top top kit.

 

[kennyd]

My only change to Jim's suggestions would be to use this diverter: 9-7852 It's just a little smaller and cheaper, and it does not require power all the time-only when "switched" to the circuit like the side link. A momentary switch mounted on the remote lever would make it very convenient to use.

But like Jim also recommended, the true 2nd remote would be better and make for a cleaner install.

 

[nickel plate]

Jim, which tractor lever would the sidelink work off of or will it require another lever or joystick to be added? As of now I have a 3PT and REMOTE lever (I assume the REMOTE lever runs the toplink) at the right of my seat however there is a vacant slot with the adjustable stop knurl knob presently in it. I looked up the NH $511.00 remote kit from Messick's and the PDF shows a lever but I don't know if it and the linkage are part of the kit.

 

[jinman]

Yep, the extra lever is part of the kit and they will send you two levers with the kit. One lever is for the HST tractor and the other one is for your TC40-S. Your lever will end up being either beside or in front of your current lever near your joystick if you have a loader. If you have trouble remembering which lever does what, you can paint matching colors of paint on the lever and the rear remote piping. BTW: The rear remotes for the 2nd will be right below your outlets for remote 1. If you ever get remote 3, it is plumbed to the opposite side of the toplink adapter, 2 on right and 1 on the left.

Also, you can easily install the kit yourself if you remove the right rear wheel. It's a piece of cake. There's lots of folks here who have done it and will give you all the help you need. :thumbsup: