TC 40D

[ENTS]

My TC40D will be 10 yrs. old. It has done everything I've asked it to and beyond. In fact, it has done things it was never built to do. I timbered my property for about 8 yrs. That meant it worked as a skidder, log loader, brush pusher, hole digger, etc. etc. It was the brush pushing and skidding (along uncleared overgrown ground) that has done the most damage. Not complaining, it still runs and works pretty darn well. The only thing I've got a problem with is a hydraulic valve (solinoid) that switches the range from hi - lo.

The wire on this valve (p.n. sba 340015990) is in a dangerous location and has been ripped and tugged and abused many times. I was able to repair it once. It was again compromised and is beyond repair. Cost of this little devil is rediculous but without it I'm stuck in low range. I've checked about everywhere for a more reasonable price but have struck out. Any help here would be appreciated.

Thanks and have a great one,


Fred

 

[jinman]

Fred, on such a specialized part, I doubt you will find a 3rd party supplier. You might find somebody who will carefully rebuild the solenoid, but you have to balance what they would charge against the $372 price tag. If it is important to you to have the rabbit ranges, then you might just have to "suck it up" and buy the part. Perhaps a guard or some form of shielding might prevent damage in the future. My wire has been snatched off my solenoid about three times, but it has never done any damage to the wire or solenoid. I just reconnect and go. I'm sorry yours has been such a problem. A fabricated skid plate might have saved you a lot of grief over the years, but that would probably have cost at least $372 also.

 

[ENTS]

Jim,

That's what I figured. I had everything pretty much tucked up and out of the way. However, one wayward branch found it's way up there and broke my repair. It's right at the point the wire goes into the sealent of the solenoid. Unless there's a way to melt that sealent w/o harming the rest of it I'll have to buy a new one.

Thanks for the reply,


Fred

 

[barbqranch]

I don't know if this would work, and would probably not be a 20 year repair, but how about driving a small brass wood screw into the end of the wire in the potting, and then attaching a wire to it and covering the whole thing with silicone? You could even solder the wire to the side of the screw before you drove it into the broken wire.

If it doesn't work, what are you out but the price of a screw and a few feet of wire?

If it does work, great. If it gets snagged off later, you might be able to do the same thing again.

 

[jinman]

I'd first remove the solenoid completely from the tractor. This is a simple operation since you loosen the nut at the end of the solenoid and then slide it off from around the plunger. Then, I think you might be able to take a hot knife and remove some of the potting around the conductor to maybe be able to solder a wire onto it.

Soldering itself may be a trick because you could overheat the wire and no telling what would be the result at the end that connects to the solenoid winding. Someone who is used to making repairs to motors or even transformers might be able to best handle this delicate job. If you can get this done without damaging something, you probably missed your calling as a neuro-surgeon. Actually, I used to teach high-reliability soldering and use of a PACE kit for circuit board repair. I think repair of this solenoid winding is very doable if it isn't crushed or smashed. It's a challenge, but doable.

After establishing a connection through soldering or some other method, I'd create a form with cardboard and use JB Weld or something similar to fully encapsulate the connection again.

I'm including a copy of the assembly from the Repair Manual. It's too bad that the solenoid winding isn't a replaceable part. Only the whole assy is listed on the parts diagram even though you can see the winding is easily replaceable if it were available.

 

[barbqranch]

I wonder if a good hydraulic shop might have a winding that would fit? There must be many similar valves that are used on 12 volt machines, and I expect when the hydraulic part fails, some of them hang onto the winding. It is unlikely the solenoid manufacturer made the coil, they most likely took one off the self from some other oem manufacturer.

 

[jinman]

I wonder if a good hydraulic shop might have a winding that would fit? There must be many similar valves that are used on 12 volt machines, and I expect when the hydraulic part fails, some of them hang onto the winding. It is unlikely the solenoid manufacturer made the coil, they most likely took one off the self from some other oem manufacturer.

On disassembly, the coil might have a number and manufacturer stamped on the outside, but I'd bet it would be some Japanese company, maybe NGK or Hitachi if he's lucky.

EDIT: On further searching, even this part might be retrofitted to work. The price sure is right.

 

[RobertN]

In the event of making the repair, either fixing the existing unit or buying a new one, is there a way to make a shield? Protect it in the future?

 

[JC-jetro]

Just an Idea.. is it possible to make a sacrificial wire harness where connection immediately to the solenoids is made with some sort of female connector. the whole things minus the connector might be encase in silicone and then secured to the body. One then can make a small wiring harness (expendable) with male connections to tie two sides together. if it should break then you'll need to make a new home made harness.

is there any possibility to put the wires that is dangling rerouted thru EMT (Eclectical Metal Tubing) in lieu of more permanent option like skid plate?

JC,

 

[munsell]

Hey guys appreciate this thread, been stuck for about a month in Low Gear on my TCD 45 and found this thread, crawled underneath and found broken wire on the Hydro solenoid valve. Of course I pulled the side cover off and had already checked relays etc... much appreciated to all especially Jinman for the exploded view on the valve

Thnks Tom