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  1. #11
    Gold Member
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    L35,1910,580D,933C,935B,MS90,N-11,Z60,310D,443,553,885

    Default Re: 1910 Milky hydraulic oil/transmission housing crack

    Let the tractor sit for a few days in the location where you plan to work on it. Before starting it drain the water from all three plugs, one at a time. We all know that oil floats on water. Pay close attention to how much water comes out into your drain pan. The water will come out first and then it will transition into milky hydraulic oil. Replace each plug when the water gets all. Then I suppose it would be best to get the milky hydraulic oil up to operating temperature and then drain all of the remaining oil. Replace the oil to the correct operating level.
    If you could determine which line is the return line from the loader valve to the transmission, it would seem like you could capture the contaminated oil after it is cycled through the cylinders and returned through the valve before it gets to the transmission. Keep the transmission at least close to the correct operating level as the contaminated oil is captured in a container.
    I would guess this would get about two thirds of the milky oil out, with the least amount of dismantling the tractor. Keep in mind that a year from now,
    the new oil will have just as much water as the current oil contains. Use the
    same procedure each year and keep a written record of the water quanity.
    I realize there is some sludge in the transmission and contaminated oil left in
    cylinders, but more water will appear each year. I do not consider totally dismantling the transmission, rear axle, and loader hydraulics routine yearly maintenance.
    I would like to hear Ford/New Hollands answer to this issue. I think they just don't care. In fact I am sure of it.
    Ever notice how the side cutting edges on the bucket are welded on with the bevel towards the outside? I told the engineers during a factory tour about this. They said my bucket was built wrong. Go look at any FNH bucket, I bet it was also built wrong also. A proper cutting edge cuts a path wider than everything behind it. Simple engineering learned in the sandbox with METAL
    Tonka toys

  2. #12
    Gold Member
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    L35,1910,580D,933C,935B,MS90,N-11,Z60,310D,443,553,885

    Default Re: 1910 Milky hydraulic oil/transmission housing crack

    I think I read somewhere in the forums that Seafoam is not good for the hydraulic system. I might be wrong.

  3. #13
    Silver Member wood butcher's Avatar
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    Nov 2010
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    Location
    NW Arkansas
    Tractor
    Kubota 3130

    Default Re: 1910 Milky hydraulic oil/transmission housing crack

    Quote Originally Posted by SixHoeBob View Post
    I think I read somewhere in the forums that Seafoam is not good for the hydraulic system. I might be wrong.
    I wonder why...guess I'll need to do some digging.

  4. #14
    Silver Member wood butcher's Avatar
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    Kubota 3130

    Default Re: 1910 Milky hydraulic oil/transmission housing crack

    Here's a pic of the milky junk that came out of my 1920...


  5. #15
    Veteran Member jimmysisson's Avatar
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    W.Mass
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    1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)

    Default Re: 1910 Milky hydraulic oil/transmission housing crack

    Wow, that barely looks like hydraulic fluid, more like Mississippi water. New fluid, run an hour or two, then new again, then store inside like you will now. Ugly!
    Jim
    "Anything worth doing is worth doing slowly" Mae West

  6. #16
    Silver Member wood butcher's Avatar
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    NW Arkansas
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    Kubota 3130

    Default Re: 1910 Milky hydraulic oil/transmission housing crack

    yea it's nothing pretty. I was surprised to see the filter wasnt gummed up. Not sure if you read the other thread but there was nearly twice the amount of fluid in it that was supposed to be. Ridiculous.

  7. #17
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    Private, ID
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    Default Re: 1910 Milky hydraulic oil/transmission housing crack

    That's what the fluid looked like out of my 1710 a few months ago, although I only got about 8 gal out. I know you know you're a little over. The filter was clogged with water, which is what limited the hudraulic flow.

  8. #18
    Silver Member wood butcher's Avatar
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    NW Arkansas
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    Kubota 3130

    Default Re: 1910 Milky hydraulic oil/transmission housing crack

    I got a little "goop" out of the filter but not much. Im hoping after it has a few days to "bleed out" & I change filter and fluid, it will function properly. I plan to change the filter/fluid after a few hours of running it. Should be relatively clean after that (I hope).

  9. #19
    Gold Member
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    L35,1910,580D,933C,935B,MS90,N-11,Z60,310D,443,553,885

    Default Re: 1910 Milky hydraulic oil/transmission housing crack

    Now we are getting somewhere. Wood Butcher summed it up quite well with the word ridiculous. Somebody other than myself (Sometimes referred to as negative Bob, among other names) questioned why their tractor has twice as much fluid in it as it should. It was also pointed out that the filter is gummed up. I am sure my filter is gummed up with the same emulsified oil/water mix. That would be why my pump cannot get any oil to raise the three point hitch. Of course there is always the possibility that the water laying in the transmission/axle cases could freeze and crack the cases. When I first bought the tractor, I actually thought somebody had dumped latex paint into the transmission because it was so milky.
    I dare somebody to call the FNH factory and ask to speak to an engineer that designs these 25-35 hp tractors. Have them explain to you why it is a good thing that these tractors collect water. How many thousands of tractors sit out side their entire lives. Of those how many have this issue? If FNH would provide me with a shed at my place, I would be happy to keep my tractor in it

  10. #20
    Gold Member
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    L35,1910,580D,933C,935B,MS90,N-11,Z60,310D,443,553,885

    Default Re: 1910 Milky hydraulic oil/transmission housing crack

    OK a few errors in my last post. I meant to type outside as one word. Second, Wood butchers filter was not gummed up. I am thinking that the oil water/ ratio is such that it the liquid in my filter is frozen to the filter pleats. The photos of the buckets of oil are nothing compared to the thin vanilla yogurt in my system.
    And then there is the cost of the hydraulic filters. I am not liking the idea of buying several filters to only use each one for a couple of hours. With a hacksaw a person should cut the can off of the filter base, use a 24 tooth/inch blade. Obviously there will be metal filings on the pleats where the cut was made, and they are disregarded. Then scrape everything else onto a piece of brown cardboard. That is the field study of the hydraulic system contamination.

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