Tires Front Wheel Frozen on Ford 1310 (4WD)

[kc5sii]

My RF wheel would not turn after a recent cold weather episode. The Temp had been very cold. (about -5F) I put a forced air heater on it a few minutes and rocked the machine back and forth. It finally broke free without any bad sounds.

Nothing seemed to be dragging or clanging after it broke free. Any idea what could have caused that?


Dave

 

[beenthere]

I'd think only water turning to ice.

 

[slowzuki]

Drain it and refill when warm, its possible you could break the case.

 

[kc5sii]

Regular 90Wt Gear oil?

 

[JC-jetro]

No, Ford-134A or equivalent is recommended. Quite thiner than 90 weight.

JC,

 

[kc5sii]

Thanks, Any idea what that is?

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks, Any idea what that is?

What is "what"?

Ford 134 A is the hyd fluid recommended FWA reduction gear and the rest of hydraulic system if that was your question.

JC,

 

[kc5sii]

Thanks,

I have an I&T manual but it doesn't talk about lubricants. I guess I need to find something that conforms to the 134A spec. I assume youæ±*e saying that's the same stuff I'd use in the rear hydraulic transmission case too.

BTW, I can't tell from the I&T drawing. Does each front wheel have a separate reservoir, or does the whole front transaxle fill and empty as one reservoir?

Dave

What is "what"?

Ford 134 A is the hyd fluid recommended FWA reduction gear and the rest of hydraulic system if that was your question.

JC,

 

[beenthere]

Thanks,

....BTW, I can't tell from the I&T drawing. Does each front wheel have a separate reservoir, or does the whole front transaxle fill and empty as one reservoir?

Dave

Dave
Should be able to tell that from looking at the axle housing. Also should be able to determine how to check the oil level, either by a dipstick or a side plug.

 

[CBP Engineer]

Dave,
I just changed the front axle fluid on my 1320, so I'll assume your tractor is the same. Jack up the front end of the tractor, block it, and take off both front wheels. There should be a drain plug at the bottom of each differential housing plus one more in the center. It is on the left side. Drink a pot of coffee while it slowly drains. You may want to rock the axle back and forth to get it to drain completely. Stick the plugs back in.

There are three filler holes. One at the top of each differential housing out by the wheels and one in the center, which contains the dipstick. Fill the outer ones first until the fluid is level with the top of the hole and put the plugs back in place. Next, start filling the center one. Rock the axle back and forth to distibute the fluid. The New Holland mechanic told me to check the level WITHOUT screwing the dipstick back in. Make sure the axle is level when checking it.

To answer your other question, I believe the axle is filled as one unit, but having the seperate filler holes helps ensure the differentials on the axle gets the proper amount of oil. Hope this helps.