Ford 1700 auxiliary hydraulics

[nsmithnd]

Hi... This 1700 will be coming my way in the Spring and I am curious if they have auxiliary hydraulic ports on them. (as you can tell from the picture I didn't get a chance to take a good look at it yet). If no aux ports, would it be possible to add on the return side of the loader control valves? I'll be looking to find a rear blade and add power angle to it.

Thanks
-Neil

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Aux. hyd were an option. So some have them and some dont. I would check that tractor over verry well before buying. Parts are gettimg harder to find and are getting more expensive. Used parts are almost nonexistant. Being burried in snow like that is almost as bad as being under water. Moisture gets into places it cant get out of and causes majior problems.
Bill

 

[nsmithnd]

Fortunately for me it's a free-bee, so I really can't say no to the offer. It was used for chores (mainly feeding the horses and moving snow) around the place the past several years and still runs great. All it needs is some welding on the loader and probably a battery. He bought a new 39hp Kubota (w/cab, heat, and air) so wants the 1700 gone.

Did some homework and priced out water pumps, alternators, and clutches on ebay (which seem to be reasonably priced). Starter looks a bit spendy though. Guess I'll make use of it as long as it holds up and doesn't turn into a $$ pit.

-Neil

 

[JC-jetro]

Fortunately for me it's a free-bee, so I really can't say no to the offer. It was used for chores (mainly feeding the horses and moving snow) around the place the past several years and still runs great. All it needs is some welding on the loader and probably a battery. He bought a new 39hp Kubota (w/cab, heat, and air) so wants the 1700 gone.

Did some homework and priced out water pumps, alternators, and clutches on ebay (which seem to be reasonably priced). Starter looks a bit spendy though. Guess I'll make use of it as long as it holds up and doesn't turn into a $$ pit.

-Neil

Freebie and a loader??? how could you go wrong? Just the entertainment value is great. Joking aside, I'd not spent much money on it. I'll check to see if engine turns over, check the fluid, hyd and engine. if engine oil is bad, I would do a an oil change before try to get it started. You can put under $100 in it to see if it is viable or not. I bet ya just selling the loader will worth your while if the rest is just scrap iron.

JC,

There is a lot of thread about 1700 here that will help you a lot should you need.

 

[nsmithnd]

Ok, now that the 1700 is fully functional and all set for snow removal, I'm back to thinking about how nice an auxiliary control valve and quick-disconnects on the back would be. This pic looks like the loader supply/return setup that I have. The lines off of the block run up to the loader control valve.

If ever I'm lucky enough to come across another one, are these blocks stack-able?

Or am I better off going with a new power-beyond joystick control valve for the loader (which I really-really-really want) and using the current loader control valve for (2) sets of auxiliary ports?

Thanks
-Neil

 

[JC-jetro]

Why not use a hyd tee in the discharge port so you'll have one extra port. For the return I'd use another free return directly to the rear diffy by removing the plug and put a fitting and hose with Quick connect. I have not seen a stacked block there, can't see any prohibition if the o-rings can seal the flow between the blocks and you'll be needing longer bolts to attach all to the spool piece. Below where I suggest for the return.


JC,

 

[nsmithnd]

Time to dust off this old thread. Finally snagged a 10 gpm joystick controller from Surplus Center (just before the supply of power beyond adapters ran dry). This weekend I'll run the 1700 into the garage and decide how I want things laid out. Joystick will replace the old tired dual spool of course, and the dual will get some new o-rings and might be tucked away on the right-side near the seat. Plan is for 3/8" hard-lines to/from the joystick, power beyond to the old dual, and the out's of each to the existing return port and the housing plug that JC suggested in the previous post. To be honest, I haven't even looked at the plug yet, does it appear to be 1/2" NPT? Or would it be a metric thread? Once I figure out where things will go, I'll order up some fittings and quick disconnects (for rear auxiliary ports) and start the project.

-Neil

 

[JC-jetro]

Neil,

I think 1/2" NPT is right. the plug is the same size as the one on lift cylinder head. There, I think I used a 1/2" to 1/4" reducing bushing to put my hyd gauge there. The bushing did not leak but I'm not 100% sure if it were Metric or NTP.

JC,

 

[nsmithnd]

Ok... A quick dry-fit of the joystick. Once the old valve is removed, the joystick would drop about 3 inches. Not liking the close proximity of the ports to the solid lines. Looks like the best solution would be to cut the solid lines back (don't really want to go there). How about shorter hoses with 90's pointing down on both the solid lines and the joystick?

Any and all suggestions are welcome.

Thanks
-Neil

 

[nsmithnd]

Another question...

The controller came from the factory with plugs on the face for inlet and outlet.
The diagram clearly labels both ports on the In side as Inlet so of course would assume either can be used.
However on the Out side, the diagram labels the face port as Outlet and the other as Power Beyond.
I won't be using the power beyond quite yet (just going to go with the loader for now and the aux ports will be another project).

So with no power beyond adapter being installed, can either of the Out ports be used for the return? Or do I have to plug the port labeled Power Beyond?

Thanks
-Neil