Hydraulic filter change

[NWOH_Grizz]

First time to change the HST and main hydraulic filters on my T2310 (TC40). Dealer says buy large jug of hydraulic fluid as I'm going to loose a bunch of it when I change the main filter.

It is located inside the frame behind the RR wheel, accessible from underneath. How much should I expect to lose when changing that big filter?

Just getting over sticker shock for 2 filters (hydraulic and HST) and 2 quarts of fluid -$85. I'm not going to complain any more about spending $15 for a chrome oil filter for the Harley.

 

[cardenharry]

Seems to me the filters will hold close to the 2 qts. With my experience you will continue to leak oil as you change the big filter so better be prepared to change it fast. Two quarts may not be enough.

 

[Jerry/MT]

First time to change the HST and main hydraulic filters on my T2310 (TC40). Dealer says buy large jug of hydraulic fluid as I'm going to loose a bunch of it when I change the main filter.

It is located inside the frame behind the RR wheel, accessible from underneath. How much should I expect to lose when changing that big filter?

Just getting over sticker shock for 2 filters (hydraulic and HST) and 2 quarts of fluid -$85. I'm not going to complain any more about spending $15 for a chrome oil filter for the Harley.

I just changed out thehydraulic filter in my TD95D and The spill didn't come from the filter itself which I would estimate holds about one quart of fluid. It came from the filter head and was continuous until I put the filter on and tightened it. I had to add about two quarts of fluid to bring the the reservoir level up to the proper level.

 

[jinman]

The solution to filter changing messiness is to drain the fluid into clean containers or containers lined with double garbage bags. When filter changing is done, decant the fluid into a dollar store pitcher and use a long neck funnel to put it back into the reservoir. It will take two 5-gallon containers to hold all the fluid, so have two prepared and ready to do the changeout mid-stream while draining. An flat oil drip pan under the buckets will ensure your garage floor is not stained nor any oil spilled on your grass.

If you try to put a catch pan under the filter while removing it, you will wash the outside of the filter and and other parts with the fluid and contaminate it as it drains into the catch pan. By draining from the drain plugs and catching the oil ahead of time, you will only lose the quart inside the old filter. I suggest prefilling the new filters to 90% before installation so you don't put so much air into the system when you start the engine after the change.

BTW: When you pre-drain the fluid, you will probably notice that you only get 8 gallons out of the reservoir. The remaining two gallons are in the 3PH cylinder, the pump, the loader (if you have one), the HST transmission and cooler, and the catch nooks and crannies in the transmission case. You never get it all. To get the most possible, remove the plug on the front-wheel drive dropbox at the front of the transmission in addition to the two drain plugs on the reservoir.

 

[RickB]

It makes no sense to me to drain all the fluid from a NH Class II or III compact in order to accomplish a simple filter change.
Changing the hydro filter will spill about a cup of fluid. Changing the main suction filter will spill about 2 quarts if your reservoir is not overfilled to begin with. Taking an awl and poking a hole in the bottom of the main filter as a drain, followed immediately by another hole near the top of the filter to let air enter will yield less than two quarts of contaminated oil mainly from the dirty side of the filter media. There is no good reason to pour this small quantity of dirty oil back into the tractor.

 

[RickB]

I just changed out thehydraulic filter in my TD95D and The spill didn't come from the filter itself which I would estimate holds about one quart of fluid. It came from the filter head and was continuous until I put the filter on and tightened it. I had to add about two quarts of fluid to bring the the reservoir level up to the proper level.

Park your TD on a slight uphill grade next time you change the hydraulic filter.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Park your TD on a slight uphill grade next time you change the hydraulic filter.

Thanks for the tip Rick. I figured filter head was below the reservoir level and Ii was draining fluid through the suction line to the pump with the filter off.

 

[jinman]

It makes no sense to me to drain all the fluid from a NH Class II or III compact in order to accomplish a simple filter change.
Changing the hydro filter will spill about a cup of fluid. Changing the main suction filter will spill about 2 quarts if your reservoir is not overfilled to begin with.

Good point Rick. Still, the 50-hour service and filter change is to ensure manufacturing debris that might be in the filter are removed. By draining the reservoir, you will open the very bottom of the reservoir pool and heavier particles that might not get picked up by the normal suction and strainer would be washed out to some extent. That's why some drain plugs have a magnet installed. Inspecting your fluid and for condition and water plus looking for metal in the bottom of the reservoir are two valid reasons to drain the oil at 50 hours.

On my tractor, I returned it to the dealer and he did the 50-hour. It also gave him a chance to repair acid damage around my radiator behind the battery.

 

[RickB]

Good point Rick. Still, the 50-hour service and filter change is to ensure manufacturing debris that might be in the filter are removed. By draining the reservoir, you will open the very bottom of the reservoir pool and heavier particles that might not get picked up by the normal suction and strainer would be washed out to some extent. That's why some drain plugs have a magnet installed. Inspecting your fluid and for condition and water plus looking for metal in the bottom of the reservoir are two valid reasons to drain the oil at 50 hours.

On my tractor, I returned it to the dealer and he did the 50-hour. It also gave him a chance to repair acid damage around my radiator behind the battery.

The OP doesn't say anything about a complete hydraulic oil change, and if that was his intention, his dealer would surely recommend more than one "large jug of hydraulic fluid" to accomplish it.

I'm just assisting with what the OP is trying to complete; changing his hydraulic and hydro filters.

 

[jinman]

The OP doesn't say anything about a complete hydraulic oil change, and if that was his intention, his dealer would surely recommend more than one "large jug of hydraulic fluid" to accomplish it.

I'm just assisting with what the OP is trying to complete; changing his hydraulic and hydro filters.

I also am not suggesting changing the fluid. I'm suggesting draining into a clean container, inspecting, and returning it to service. I never suggested changing in any post in this thread unless the oil looks to have contamination. If you feel confident that the oil is okay, I certainly don't think it would wrong to not inspect it and simply change the filters and return to service after a simple topping off.