jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 21,008
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
Cool Paul, Slowly but surely we're marching ahead. It is there is a very good chance your sender is okay and you'd just verifies your wiring is in tact. T-start are normally closed valve, meaning at cold condition with engine off it is closed. Most have a small hole to allow some water passage. As the engine quickly warms up during the start up it then slowly opens up.
"Cool Paul" . . . Is that a pun?
JC, I'm including a photo of my thermostat with the faulty checkvalve/bleedvalve. Paul, these thermostats can fail because the little valve plunger gets out of position and jams the thermostat open. When this happens, the engine never gets hot. The easiest way to solve the problem is to just snip off the little "dangle" and remove it. The tiny hole will slow your heat-up, but not much. It will ensure the thermostat never fails this way again and you can put the thermostat back into your tractor instead of spending money on a new one. If you check your sensor/sender and it is okay, this is probably your problem.
Remember, if you remove the hose adapter neck to get at the thermostat, you are going to lose some coolant. It's best to drain part of your coolant (maybe 6 quarts) into a bucket by using the drain valve on the bottom of the radiator (normally on the bottom right side on the front of the radiator). you don't have to drain all the coolant, just enough so the level is below the thermostat. Before you do that, you will need a gasket, item 48 in the illustration I posted earlier. When you finish, you can put the coolant back into the tractor.
If you end up removing the sending unit, you will also need to drain the fluid the same way so it doesn't leak on the ground.