ford 1910 glow plug issues

[bwhoffman]

so it all started with a charge wire to the starter terminal getting hot.
I replaced the regulator and also the ignition switch, since it had a spot were it would not connect to the glow indicator if not in the right spot with a steady hand.
I replaced the original switch with an aftermarket 4 position, with 5 terminal locations.

At this time, all works except the glow indicator, as I have left one side disconnected., and an issue of no heat from the glow plugs.
Putting the ignition in the 3 position (off/key removable, on, on, glow plug, crank and glow plug these are the positions in order) I get B+ voltage to the glowplug rail but no heat up and I can crank and make smoke for a while.

Does anyone have a pic of the wiring diagram or the sequencing of the glow plug system I could get???

I have heard both ways on voltage at the glow plugs....some say B+ others say like 4v or less.

Help!
Thanks,
Brett

 

[RickB]

The original switch provides power to the glowplugs in two of the four positions. In the preheat position, power is provided to the indicator coil and from there on to the glowplug rail. In the crank position, power is provided directly to the glowplug rail.

 

[bwhoffman]

the two leads from the indicator....
this is a heating coil, operating on 12v.
Does one of these need to go to ground? or does the indicator ground thru the mounting?
I do get power to the plugs on 3 and while cranking. Just no heat from the plugs so it seems.

Seems odd the plugs would fail at one time.

 

[RickB]

Ground one of the leads connected to the indicator coil and you will create a dead short; not good. The glowplugs themselves complete the indicator coil circuit.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

If I understand you corectly you left off the wire for the indicator. You cannot do this. In the pre heat position the power goes through the ign switch through the indicator to the glow plugs. With the switch you have chosen it would be verry easy to leave the glow plugs on . This could burn up the glowplugs or if you ran it verry long could damage the engine. A factory switch would be a much better choice.
Bill

 

[bwhoffman]

positions 3 and 4 on this switch are spring loaded, so no means to be left in the on position without my intent.

If I have this figured, I need to supply the B+ to the indicator on its inbound lead, take the outbound lead and tie that to the lead that feeds the glowplug band,(Which makes its connection on this switch)

does B+ voltage burn up the plugs,... does the indicator act as a ballast resistor and step the voltage down?

What should the voltage be to the glow plug bank???

I very much appreciate the input!

 

[bwhoffman]

positions 3 and 4 on this switch are spring loaded, so no means to be left in the on position without my intent.

If I have this figured, I need to supply the B+ to the indicator on its inbound lead, take the outbound lead and tie that to the lead that feeds the glowplug band,(Which makes its connection on this switch)

does B+ voltage burn up the plugs,... does the indicator act as a ballast resistor and step the voltage down?

What should the voltage be to the glow plug bank???

I very much appreciate the input!

Can anybody answer my questions?

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

The indicator does not act as a resistor. There should be 12v going to the glow plug bus bar. However with all the glowplugs hooked up you will only have arround 9-10v because of the draw of the glowplugs.
Bill

 

[bwhoffman]

UPDATE... BUT A QUESTION HEREIN!

replaced the battery, cured the issue!
The Kicker...
I have B+ voltage to the glow plug bank, but no heatup at the indicator nor the glow plugs doing their thing.


Is there, or what is a good way to test the glow plugs, either in block or removed???


BTW, the former issue.... the batt had voltage but no amps, so any load (even an indicator light) would drain it instantly.

 

[jinman]

Is there, or what is a good way to test the glow plugs, either in block or removed???

With power off, remove the busbar connection to the glowplugs. Measure the resistance from the busbar terminal of each glowplug to ground. Make sure it's a clean surface and that the meter is making good contact. Your glowplug should read approximately 1 ohm to ground. You may read as high as 1.5 ohms due to change with age, but not much more. If the glowplug is open (infinite ohms) then it is bad. If it is zero ohms (shorted) it is also bad, but most likely if bad, it will be open. If it is shorted, it will normally blow a fuse because it will draw too much current.

If you are using an analog ohmeter, you need to set it on the lowest scale and zero it very carefully before making this reading. If it's a digital meter, you probably have no way of zeroing the scale.