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  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    2
    Tractor
    1968 Ford 3000

    Default 1968 Ford 3000 Diesel

    I recently became the proud owner of a 1968 Ford 3000 diesel tractor. It's still running pretty strong, but I'm wanting to do a full overhaul and rebuild to bring it back to factory new. Anyone know where I can find parts (especially body parts (Whoever had it before couldn't drive that well.)) also any technical or other information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Bigfoot62's Avatar
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    Aug 2008
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    W. Central Louisiana
    Tractor
    JD 5083E; JD 5085M; NH TN70A; Ford 2600

    Default Re: 1968 Ford 3000 Diesel


    Welcome to TBN.

    Unless the tractor has many thousand hours on it, save your overhaul money. Those engines and drivetrains will last almost forever. As for the sheet metal, tractor salvage yards are a good place to start. Also, there are places like this one, near me, that sell aftermarket replacement parts: Sheet Metal - 3000 Series - Ford 1965 & Up - Parts
    '12 JD 5083E Cab MFWD FEL
    '10 JD 5085M Cab MFWD FEL
    '07 NH TN70A MFWD FEL
    '81 Ford 2600

    JD 457 round baler; JD 265 & Kuhn GMD 600 disc mowers; Sitrex V-10 rake; Hardee 10', Rhino 7', & Modern 5' rotary mowers; JD 13' & Ford 6' tandem discs; HayKing 10' rennovator plow (sub-soiler); etc, etc.
    My other tractor is a '95 Kenworth.

    Don't ever wrestle with a pig. You'll both get dirty, but the pig will enjoy it.

  3. #3
    Bronze Member HakanTh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    65
    Location
    Sweden
    Tractor
    Ford 4000

    Default Re: 1968 Ford 3000 Diesel

    Some links that may be useful:

    How to identify your tractor: FORD CODES and SERIAL NUMBERS
    Specifications: 3000 Ford Tractor Specifications

    Edit:
    Diagrams and parts lists:
    It seems like it is not possible to directly link to the page I was referring to, do like this:
    1. Go to Messick's
    2. Click on the "NewHolland Agriculture" badge.
    3. Type "3000" in the search box under "Enter Your Model Number" and click the "Search" button.
    4. Choose 3000-SERIES 3 CYL TRACTOR (1/65-12/74)


    Strange, whenever you write "New Holland" in a post you get a link to a Boomer 555 contest.
    Last edited by HakanTh; 08-16-2011 at 08:27 AM.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Bigfoot62's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    2,081
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    W. Central Louisiana
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    JD 5083E; JD 5085M; NH TN70A; Ford 2600

    Default Re: 1968 Ford 3000 Diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by HakanTh View Post
    Some links that may be useful:

    How to identify your tractor: FORD CODES and SERIAL NUMBERS
    Specifications: 3000 Ford Tractor Specifications
    Diagrams and parts lists: New Holland 3000-SERIES 3 CYL TRACTOR
    Another good link:
    TractorData.com Ford 3000 tractor information
    '12 JD 5083E Cab MFWD FEL
    '10 JD 5085M Cab MFWD FEL
    '07 NH TN70A MFWD FEL
    '81 Ford 2600

    JD 457 round baler; JD 265 & Kuhn GMD 600 disc mowers; Sitrex V-10 rake; Hardee 10', Rhino 7', & Modern 5' rotary mowers; JD 13' & Ford 6' tandem discs; HayKing 10' rennovator plow (sub-soiler); etc, etc.
    My other tractor is a '95 Kenworth.

    Don't ever wrestle with a pig. You'll both get dirty, but the pig will enjoy it.

  5. #5
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    111
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Tractor
    Ford 3600, diesel, Ford 755 TLB

    Default Re: 1968 Ford 3000 Diesel

    "Whoever had it before couldn't drive that well."

    I had to laugh when I read that. When I bought my beautifully redone Ford 3600, I even put rags and cardboard under the chains around the axles when I loaded it on the trailer. When I got home and unloaded it and was parking it, I bumped into the loader of my old backhoe and put a small dent in the brand new grille that the p/o had put on. Boy was I mad at myself, but all I could do was smile and think "well, I got that out of the way, now it's a working tractor again".

    Congrats and enjoy your new toy.

  6. #6
    New Member
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    Aug 2011
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    Tractor
    1968 Ford 3000

    Default

    Well, I don't know how many hours are on it, when I got it the gauge cluster didn't work because it wasn't hooked up. The wires are there and so are the connections. I think the gauge cluster said something around 7000 hours. I asked the previous owner and he said it was like that when he got it 15 years ago. It seems to be running fine though, I've had no trouble pulling a bushhog or a box blade except that the pto is hard to engage, when I push the lever back, it grinds. It'll eventually engage, but it almost takes an act of God. I've tried shifting into neutral and throttling down but it still does it. Am I just not doing it right, or is there something wrong?

    Thanks everyone for the info, I appreciate it.

    Hahaha I would be mad at myself too. But any good tractor is supposed to have a little character. Hopefully that won't happen when I get Ol' Blue fixed up.

  7. #7
    Super Member RickB's Avatar
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    Sep 2000
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    8,507
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    Eastern NY
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    Case 885, Ford 4000

    Default Re: 1968 Ford 3000 Diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by Soldierboy20113 View Post
    Well, I don't know how many hours are on it, when I got it the gauge cluster didn't work because it wasn't hooked up. The wires are there and so are the connections. I think the gauge cluster said something around 7000 hours. I asked the previous owner and he said it was like that when he got it 15 years ago. It seems to be running fine though, I've had no trouble pulling a bushhog or a box blade except that the pto is hard to engage, when I push the lever back, it grinds. It'll eventually engage, but it almost takes an act of God. I've tried shifting into neutral and throttling down but it still does it. Am I just not doing it right, or is there something wrong?

    Thanks everyone for the info, I appreciate it.

    Hahaha I would be mad at myself too. But any good tractor is supposed to have a little character. Hopefully that won't happen when I get Ol' Blue fixed up.
    The PTO stage of the clutch is stuck, the linkage is broken or out of adjustment, or the transmission disc is worn thin affecting the PTO stage operation.
    We have too much gun control.
    What we need is more idiot control.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Bigfoot62's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    2,081
    Location
    W. Central Louisiana
    Tractor
    JD 5083E; JD 5085M; NH TN70A; Ford 2600

    Default Re: 1968 Ford 3000 Diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by Soldierboy20113 View Post
    Well, I don't know how many hours are on it, when I got it the gauge cluster didn't work because it wasn't hooked up. The wires are there and so are the connections. I think the gauge cluster said something around 7000 hours. I asked the previous owner and he said it was like that when he got it 15 years ago. It seems to be running fine though, I've had no trouble pulling a bushhog or a box blade except that the pto is hard to engage, when I push the lever back, it grinds. It'll eventually engage, but it almost takes an act of God. I've tried shifting into neutral and throttling down but it still does it. Am I just not doing it right, or is there something wrong? . . .
    IIRC, the hourmeter/tachometer works off a cable that runs from the back of the instrument cluster down to the rear of the injector pump.

    If it's running fine, and not blowing blue smoke, again I would encourage you to save your engine rebuild money for diesel fuel. It may outlast you as it is.

    As RickB pointed out, that is a clutch problem. Could be an adjustment issue, but most likely the drive clutch is just about worn out. NOTE: if you have to break it down to replace anything, do it all. (drive clutch, pto clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing) The time required and labor cost to split the tractor are more than all of the clutch parts combined. It's also very important that you get it all adjusted correctly.
    '12 JD 5083E Cab MFWD FEL
    '10 JD 5085M Cab MFWD FEL
    '07 NH TN70A MFWD FEL
    '81 Ford 2600

    JD 457 round baler; JD 265 & Kuhn GMD 600 disc mowers; Sitrex V-10 rake; Hardee 10', Rhino 7', & Modern 5' rotary mowers; JD 13' & Ford 6' tandem discs; HayKing 10' rennovator plow (sub-soiler); etc, etc.
    My other tractor is a '95 Kenworth.

    Don't ever wrestle with a pig. You'll both get dirty, but the pig will enjoy it.

  9. #9
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    111
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Tractor
    Ford 3600, diesel, Ford 755 TLB

    Default Re: 1968 Ford 3000 Diesel

    Soldierboy20113,
    As others said, could be an adjustment issue on the PTO clutch (cross your fingers). Mine was WAY off when I bought it but a couple of minutes with a wrench fixed that. Don't know if you got a manual with it, but that should be your first purchase. I'd try and get the original Ford Service manual for it if you can. Look on Ebay, Craigslist and even call the Ford NH dealers. They're not cheap but it will be money well spent.

  10. #10
    Old Timer Soundguy's Avatar
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: 1968 Ford 3000 Diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigfoot62 View Post
    IIRC, the hourmeter/tachometer works off a cable that runs from the back of the instrument cluster down to the rear of the injector pump..
    I'd look at the back of the genny first...

    soundguy

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