Counterweight 3pt

[Anonymous Poster]

Hi all: Although this might be posted under attachments/build it yourself, since it is painted blue will do it here. If needs to be moved I guess it can. Since eventually I will be using my TC40 with loader only (right now I am mostly doing BH stuff which gives plenty of rear weight), since I will need a counterweight to offset a loaded bucket, since I wanted something less bulky than a large implement in the rear (as a counter weight), since the weight bar/weights sold by NH run a lot for a cheap SOB like myself I had a 3pt counterweight made up. It uses a straight barrel which is around 8.2 cubic feet. Gravel weighs about 2500 pounds per cubic yard (dry). So, filled, I will have around 750 pounds of easily attached, and compact counter weight to offset the front weight. If I need more weight, I can use scrap iron. The cost? The barrel was free for the hauling, the 3pt hitch bar I had laying around (I think they are only about $10 or so new), 2 cans of "Ford Blue" paint was $8, it will use a couple dollars of gravel to fill and I paid a machinist $50 to weld it up (my welding is between poor and pathetic). So, for around $75 I have a simple, cheap, quick and easy to attach compact rear weight that will do as well as the $300-$450 set-up that NH sells. I will be doing one for the front eventually built similarly but with jacks (similar to camper jacks) to hook over the front when the loader is not on. I am enclosing a pic of the finished counter weight ready to add the weight. JEH

 

[jinman]

John,
Nice job! I like the color. One of the local farmers uses a large milk can filled with water, but your barrel looks much nicer than that rusty milk can. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif It's hard to see from the picture, but did you use any additional reinforcement for the barrel? My only concern is that the metal in the barrel may not be strong enough to handle the 750 lb live load as you travel over bumps. Let us know how it works out after you've use it a few times.

 

[hazmat]

Looks good

I'l echo jinman's concern about the barrel holding up to the weight of the gravel. It may not be a problem, but there are ways around it.

Simple solution, use concrete, the barrel will be the "form" the cement will provide the strength. Be sure to use some rebar and/or mesh. Also, it is good if you can tie the drawbar to the top link somehow.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

My uncle has a setup like that for his 404 (or 414?) IH loader. Used it for 35 years or more, lots of manure, snow, & more - that tractor is & was used!

He used rocks & cement in it, and that upper bracket should be anchored somehow on the inside, into the concrete or onto the hitch bar. Also you might want to consider sticking a square tube receiver into the barrel & anchoring that to the hitch - then you can put a hitch on it. That is something you will miss a lot, having a hitch on the tractor with the weight box in the way, & so much work to remove the weight for just one hook-up... You don't really want something solid sticking out the barrel, or you will leave an ugly dent in all the things you back into. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

My uncle left a 3" lip on the top of the barrel (not quite full), & it is a real nice tool & chain carrying area.

--->Paul

 

[Steven]

I made a weight similar to the ones I posted for use when backhoe is removed. I used a 22 gallon rectangle plastic storage bucket as the mold. this gave me a weight of 400lbs. maybe you could fill barrel with concrete and attach some steel plates to draw bar with holes on other end for the toplink. I would think that over time the barrel will weaken as it flexes from bouncing around. toplink bracket could tear off and cause a problem. with concrete and plates mounted to drawbar and toplink the whole unit becomes one piece, may need to lower barrel height for proper fit to your tractor. you still have a great idea and it looks good to.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Steven: Yours looks nice too-the "chunky" look makes it look heavier as well. It "looks" like a counter weight! Also, comments of others appreciated. On reflection, I think I will add two straps welded to the trailer hitch bar and run them up to the top to use for the upper link before adding the weight. As far as the metal bending under load, I had figured on using gravel/scrap iron in a layer, concrete then more fill, more concrete,etc. Guess I could use rebar to tie it all together and pour that way-but havn't looked up the specific gravity (weight per cubic foot) of concrete alone-also, gravel such as 1 minus is cheaper. In any event, thanks for the suggestions. Havn't needed a counter weight yet as I am mostly doing BH stuff at the moment, but will be doing FEL stuff only, soon. Thanks again, guys. JEH

 

[Hoeman00]

concrete 137#/cu ft.
Limestone 163#/cu ft
Loose earth 75#/cu ft
wet sand 125#/cu ft (dry -25#)
Cast iron 449#/ cu ft
Iron 487#/ cu ft
Lead 710# / cu ft
Aluminum 160#/ cu ft

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Hard to believe, but true- Aluminum is heavier than concrete /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Steel 495#/cu ft

I added a piece of 3" x 5.25" x 55" steel bar that I found in a scrap yard to the top rear edge of my box blade. It's 24" behind the 3 pt link ends and not only adds a nice amount of counterweight (245 lbs), but makes my box blade cut like a knife thru butter. Best part is the scrap yard only charged me 15 cents a pound.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Hoeman00: thanks-saves me looking it up. I kinda figured concrete was a bit lighter than gravel (planned on 1 minus). But, even concrete would give the necessary weight. Thanks again. JEH