Replacing the Battery on a TC25D

   / Replacing the Battery on a TC25D #1  

MikePA

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Tractor
Had TC25D, now JD X310
I went out to check the fluids on my TC25D this morning and had to use a piece of wood as a pry bar to get the hood opened! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif There I found the battery a 'cottage cheese' mess. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I had cleaned it off last fall, so over the winter, during the few times I used the tractor, this occurred.

I decided I will replace this original, gassy /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif, battery with an AGM battery from BatteryStuff.com. Based upon the size of the battery area, it looks like there are two potential replacements. Measurements are LWH in inches.

An 8A22NF at 9.38 x 5.50 x 9.25. Post type T881
An 8AU1 at 7.75 x 5.13 x 7.25. Post type T873
Orig. battery is 8.80 x 5.25 x 8.63.

The 2 problems will be;

1. The original battery has posts whereas the 2 replacement batteries do not. See attached picture.

2. The taller battery will require longer hold down J bolts.

Has anyone replaced the battery in their Boomer?

Are there adapters that would allow me to connect the original cables to the new battery or do I have to replace the cables too?

Where can I get the longer J bolts?
 

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   / Replacing the Battery on a TC25D #2  
Hi Mike,

Does your battery have any warranty left with NH? Is it possible they had a bad batch that was installed? What can your local NH dealer do for you?

I’m sure a battery “shipped” would cost a few dollars, and if somebody via mailorder/web is selling it… then it should be available locally… or at least an equivalent.

I’d try some local “national” auto parts places or even a “rural” WalMart should have a replacement… if this problem was to occur again in the future… it would be easier to deal with on a local basis… and somebody like WalMart would replace it without giving you a hard time…

(and buying an equivalent replacement would eliminate playing around with modifying post/cable changes and possibly introducing other problems... no sense in trying to reinvent the wheel over it...)
 
   / Replacing the Battery on a TC25D #3  
I would replace the original battery with a good Maintenance Free one of similar size and the same type post. Make sure the + & - post are on the same side as your old one. Much simpler and more than likely cheaper. Clean the outside of your old battery with a mixture of water & baking soda to neutralize the battery acid on the case. Place it in a cardboard box and take it with you when you go to buy the new battery. Most places that sell batteries will charge you a deposit unless you have the old battery to exchange for the new one. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Replacing the Battery on a TC25D #4  
Mike:

I hope you don't let your computers get the "cottage cheese" look on their circuit boards....Anyway, what we do when we replace the factory batteries in our tractors is we use Optima saturated mat batteries. The Optima batteries are sealed so you don't get the "cottage cheese" effect and come in all sizes up to group 31. Another benefit is the fact that a normal lead-acid battery will sulphate, especially if it sits over a long period (such as over the winter) and Optima batteries seem not to be effected by long idle periods. We use Optima Red Top batteries in our Ag tractors, gas driven welding sets, I have 2 in my F-350 Ford and a yellow top deep cycle in my camper. My partner got a little tipsy last year and shot a hole (accidently) in the red top on his Miller gas welder and it is still starting and running the welder. If you shot a hole in a lead acid battery, the electrolyte would leak out and the battery would be junk.

As far as J-bolts, go to the hardware store or Lowes for that matter and get some 1/8" rod, measure the length you need and bend one end into a "J" and thread the other end. A single carbon steel die will probably cost you about $3.00. You don't need a die stock, grip the die in a vise and thread the rod into it with a pair of vise grips. You need a 1/8" x 24 NC die. Don't forget to chamfer the end of the rod so it will feed into the die easily. When you get the die, grab a couple of hex nuts for the "J" bolts. Make them insert nuts and do away with the lockwashers

Daryl
Forage Services, L.P.
 
   / Replacing the Battery on a TC25D #5  
Mike, I replaced my OEM battery at about 25 hours with an OPTIMA unit. They have a reverse post ( type 34R I think ) that fits well. I bought a rubber strap ( kind of like a dog bone ) and new j-bolts at the local auto parts store. The OPTIMA has been excellent and no gas leak rust either.

I don't know anything about OPTIMA warranty problems ( as noted by your link vendor ). I do know they aren't cheap, and I do know they are excellent batteries.

Here is a link to one vendor Optima Battery Source
 
   / Replacing the Battery on a TC25D #6  
Just goe's to show you, I didn't know they had a website. I never claimed to be very computer literate.

Murray's auto parts sells Optima batteries at a nice discount and can special order their entire line. That's where we get them.

Optima claims that they even work upside down. I know they don't "gas off" like regular flodded cell storage batteries. I also have one in my Lincoln AC/DC gas driven welder/generator and the battery box is enclosed. The OEM flodded cell just about destroyed the battery box. I fabbed a new box and put in an Optima. No more problems.

Daryl
Forage Services, L.P.
 
   / Replacing the Battery on a TC25D
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks to all who replied! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

tc35dforme
<font color="blue">They have a reverse post ( type 34R I think ) that fits well.</font>
The 35D is Class III Boomer, so there's room for a 34R. My Class II only has 5 5/8" inches between the rear (closest to the radiator) lip that locates the battery and the hood latch mechanism at the front.

I checked all the batteries at the link you included and none of the Optimas will fit, since they're all 6.8" wide. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
   / Replacing the Battery on a TC25D #8  
Sorry Mike....I didn't realize that the batteries were that much smaller in the smaller Boomers. You'll be a lot better off with any gel type battery though...let us know what you come up with.
 
   / Replacing the Battery on a TC25D #9  
MikePA,

I couldn't believe it when I began reading about your battery troubles. I thought you were telling my story!

I, too, when out last weekend to fire-up my TC29D (212 hrs). It had not been started since the end of February, so it had sat for about 5 weeks without any "action". Same story as you, I fought to get the hood latch open, and found an unbelievable mess at the (+) terminal. I knew it was a battery problem due to the fast clicking noise when I tried to start it, but never anticipated the following ordeal.

I removed the rubber hoods and cleaned both terminals. I knew I needed to remove at least the (+) terminal and wire brush both the post and cable clamp with my battery terminal brush. After loosening the nut and spreading the clamp, the (+) terminal still would not budge! Trying to avoid the desperate attempts of prying upward and damaging the battery, I tried rotating it ever so slightly with a large wrench. Yep, it started to turn, along with the entire battery post! Yes, the post broke free from the battery. Now as many are aware, the Class II Boomers had a battery problem where they would overheat & overflow (or something like that) during shipment and initial use. You can find the thread here at TractorByNet. I found it right away. It was probably the first problem I was alerted to by using TractorByNet (Many thanks to all /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif). My dealer took care of the mess it caused, repainted the battery base and tractor frame. I never had another battery problem. Now with this new problem, I decided that a new sealed type battery was in order. I measured the factory battery, noting the small space that the battery must fit into (between the hood latch and the radiator stop). Off to WalMart I went. I located a battery with the correct dimensions, but The TC29D needs the reverse (+)-(-) terminal configuration and WalMart had nothing to offer. Convinced that I could just modify the hold-down bracket and mount the battery with the (+) terminal on the proper side for the cables, I turned in my old battery to avoid the deposit charge. It seemed like a great deal - 535 cca instead of 420cca, and a sealed no-maintenance unit to boot! Once home it was another story.

Upon arriving home I immediately tried to install this new addition to my beloved friend. Yes, the Class II Boomers do have a tight space situation. Although the battery was of the correct dimmensions, I had neglected to consider those little flanges, or "wings" sticking out on the long sides toward the bottom. These kept the battery from even getting close to sitting on the bottom of the battery compartment! Frustrated, I just figured I'd return the battery the next day, get another unit, and go forward.

Well you can guess that WalMart had nothing else close, nor did either of the other two local auto dealers. So I decided to bite the bullet, and call my dealer, have him order the battery, pay the inflated price, and move forward. Don't get me wrong here, my dealer is a good guy, it is just my kind of luck that my needs are never in stock for anything.

Well in fact my dealer had a battery for the TC29D (in fact he had four). I drove the 20 miles the next afternoon to pickup the factory replacement battery. Yes, and since I now did not have my old battery, I had to pay a deposit! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif (It seems like it is so hard to win!)

And yes the battery fit well, I didn't have to modify the cables or hold-down. So I thought the adventure was over. Then it happenned. The hood latch would not "latch" around the hood post; now what. After removing the latch mechanism and cleaning the unit out, it still did not work and it was hard to see what was wrong. So back to my dealer I went, latch in hand. It seems that the battery acid leak two years prior had finally frozen the latch; all it needed was to be left unused for the winter. Periodic spraying with WD40 had not prevented it from going over to the dark side! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Soaking it in penetrating oil for a couple of hours returned it to its full functioning self.

So it went for my plans to quickly jump on my trusted friend and move that dirt out away from the new heat pump. . . . . I'm sure I'll get to it someday.
 
   / Replacing the Battery on a TC25D
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Misery loves company, Boomerboy!

Just to be clear to the lurkers, I could move the latch to the Open position, but the hood was stuck shut and needed some leverage to open. My tractor will start, but I have a mess at the + terminal. I haven't tried cleaning it yet, though, probably next weekend.

How much did you pay for the new NH battery? I assume it's not a gel battery, right? Same old style that will probably 'cheese up' as well?
 
 
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