Tips for winter deisel operation of Ford 1720

[OldBulldogger]

Hey all,

This will be my first full winter with my Ford 1720 diesel and I am looking for some sound advice. Some have warned that I must start treating my fuel due to low temperatures. Is this legitimate advice and if so, what product do you recommend I use?

I am in Minnesota and we have quite a bit of snow and mostly low temperatures below 30 all winter and sometimes down to 10 degrees below zero. I will be doing my own snow removal with my loader and 3 pt blower, so it will be getting use all winter if that makes a difference. My tractor and fuel is stored in a shed(non heated).

I have installed new glow plugs and they do seem to be working. I do also have a block heater. About how long should I plug it in before starting? Also, how important is it to change the fuel filter before the cold hits as some have suggested. What is the reasoning behind that? As far as fuel goes, I have easy access to buy diesel at Casey's or Kwik Trip. Do they automatically switch over to a winter blend of diesel and if so, would I still need to treat it? Some have also suggested always keeping the tank topped off? Thoughts as to why? Lastly, once fired up, how long should I let it idle to warm up before putting it to use?

All advice is appreciated! Thanks in advance. :thumbsup:

 

[90cummins]

I've owned my 1720 SSS since 1995 and it has been trouble free. For winter use I treat the fuel with Power Service adding a bit more than the recommended amount and also use synthetic 5w40 oil which helps cold cranking speeds. I use Rotella T6 synthetic because of the price/quality value but there are better oils when it comes to extreme cold weather such as Mobil Delvac1 (very expensive) or Amsoil.
These tractors start very well without aids but a block heater plugged in for 1 or 2 hours will let it start like summer time.
Change the fuel filter and buy your diesel where there is a good turn over.
After using it prior to shut down set the engine speed to approx 1200 rpm because the hand throttle cable may freeze preventing you from setting the idle for a warm-up.
During the very cold months if I need a short break while operating it I will set the throttle around 1500 rpm to keep the engine temp up.
Your engine temperature should run approx 1/2 on the guage if not it may not be warming up properly; there was a recall on the thermostat & housing to cure this.
I've had the thermostat fail & I replaced it with gates super stat. The ford thermostat was gold plated.
As far as warm-up after 5~10 minutes you can start to work it depending on temp.
tim

 

[OldBulldogger]

Thanks 90cummins for the advice. I have not changed the fuel filter before on this tractor so my next question is this - will I have to bleed the lines after changing the filter? One fellow I know said there should be a fuel shut-off valve on the sediment bowl that I can shut off the fuel with before I change the filter. He said if I do that, I will NOT have to bleed the lines. What has been your experience with this? I don't have any good way to haul this to a shop without driving it so if I can't get it started that would present a bigger problem. I am just trying to understand if this is something I should tackle or drive to the local shop and have them do it? Thanks.

 

[mguitas]

I heard of putting half kerosene an deisel in. They say kerosene won't gel. Has anybody else heard of that?

 

[nybirdman]

You have to be careful with a kero mix with your fuel.No lubricants in kero.
I live in northern NY,gets very cold and my tractor sits outdoors.I have a block heater but seldom use it,make sure you have winter blend fuel and add powerservice(ups the Cetane).As stated use more than recommended,can't hurt.Start-up and let idle for 5-10 minutes.I try to keep my tank full also.

 

[90cummins]

Yes you will need to bleed the line between the filter and injection pump after the filter change but it is easy to do.
First start & warm up the engine this will make it easier to start after changing the filter.
Note; the fuel shut-off may be frozen, do not force the shut-off lever & break it.
If it is frozen pinch the fuel line between the filter & fuel tank with vice grips to stop the fuel but only pinch it enough to stop the fuel flow.
Remove & replace the fuel filter then remove the vice grips & check for leaks. Now follow the line from the fuel filter to the top of the injection pump; at the banjo fitting there will be a small 10mm screw on top of the larger screw that secures the fuel line.
Loose the 10mm screw until fuel runs out there will be fuel & air bubbles continue to bleed until there are no more air bubbles, tighten bleed screw.
Start your tractor & have some fun.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Hey all,

This will be my first full winter with my Ford 1720 diesel and I am looking for some sound advice. Some have warned that I must start treating my fuel due to low temperatures. Is this legitimate advice and if so, what product do you recommend I use?

I am in Minnesota and we have quite a bit of snow and mostly low temperatures below 30 all winter and sometimes down to 10 degrees below zero. I will be doing my own snow removal with my loader and 3 pt blower, so it will be getting use all winter if that makes a difference. My tractor and fuel is stored in a shed(non heated).

I have installed new glow plugs and they do seem to be working. I do also have a block heater. About how long should I plug it in before starting? Also, how important is it to change the fuel filter before the cold hits as some have suggested. What is the reasoning behind that? As far as fuel goes, I have easy access to buy diesel at Casey's or Kwik Trip. Do they automatically switch over to a winter blend of diesel and if so, would I still need to treat it? Some have also suggested always keeping the tank topped off? Thoughts as to why? Lastly, once fired up, how long should I let it idle to warm up before putting it to use?

All advice is appreciated! Thanks in advance. :thumbsup:

I would imagine yur fuel will be treated for winter starting in October-November. Some places blend the fuel in October with less anti gell or #1 diesel than they do in November and again in December through January. if you 're not buying fresh fuel regularly, you may have fuel that won't hack the ambient temperatures. You don't want to find this out the hard way.So treat your fuel with a good diesel fuel additive( Power Service, Stanadyne, Howe's etc), especially if you still have summer blend in the tank.

The reasoning is that you don't want fuel gelling, you want any water in the fuel treated so that the filter removes the water and makes in stay off the filter and drop down near the drain. Finally, most fuel aditives have cetane boosters to assist with starting. Keep the fuel tank full to minimize condensation.

You should plug your block heater in for a minimum of two hours, maybe longer if it's below zero. You can leave it plugged in all the time but it's a waste of electricity. The coolant will only get so hot. ALWAYS TURN THE BLOCK HEATER OFF BEFOR YOU START THE ENGINE! Otherwise you can damage the element. (Rememberto unplug it before you drive off!)I have mine on a timer and it turns on two hours before I feed.
Replace your filter before the winter. A partially clogged filter will ice up or clog with gelled fuel faster. Drain the sediment bowl before start up to get rid of any water.
You'll have to bleed the fuel delivery system after changing the filter. Your owners manual will tell you how to do it. In case you don't have one, here's are some general instructions:

Warm the tractor up and make sure the battery is fully charged.

Close the tank valve on the fuel tank. Drain the filter body. Remove the old filter and clean the filter retainer. Install the new filter and gaskets( if required) and tighten down.

Open the bleeder screw at the top of the filter body and then open the tank valve. Bubbles of air and fuel will eventually come out of the bleeder. When the air bubbles cease, tighten down the bleeder screw. (Be patient and make sure you get all the air out of the filter!)

If ther is a bleeder screw on the injector pump, bleed it the same way you bled the filter-til no air bubbles come out.

Follow the fuel lines from the injector pump to the injectors. I usually loosen the fitting one injector at a time and crank until I see fuel come out eith no air bubbles. Repeat on each injector. The engine will usually start before you get to the last injector.

hope this helps you.

 

[RetBFDLtE22]

Follow the fuel lines from the injector pump to the injectors. I usually loosen the fitting one injector at a time and crank until I see fuel come out eith no air bubbles. Repeat on each injector. The engine will usually start before you get to the last injector.

hope this helps you.

Not sure I understand this last point...when you say that the engine may fire up before you get to the last injector...does this mean that when you get to the last injector/injectors... and it starts before the bleeding on that injector is completed successfully, its not necessary to bleed the last injector/injectors because if the tractor starts, the process is finished.

 

[90cummins]

Not sure I understand this last point...when you say that the engine may fire up before you get to the last injector...does this mean that when you get to the last injector/injectors... and it starts before the bleeding on that injector is completed successfully, its not necessary to bleed the last injector/injectors because if the tractor starts, the process is finished.

That is correct!

If you are doing a routine fuel filter service and did not run out of fuel then you do not need to bleed the injectors.
Bleeding the injectors is generally needed only when you run out of fuel or if the engine stalls because of gelled fuel.

90cummins

 

[Soundguy]

swap to winter diesel and go power service white bottle or similar..

soundguy