drakefamily2
Member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2011
- Messages
- 32
- Tractor
- ford 1700
Check this out Ford Clutch S.70911 Clutch Alignment Tool
Ford 1900
- Thread starter Brmosh
- Start date
JC-jetro
Elite Member
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There is a plastic aligning tool that matches the spline for your clutch and fits like the input shaft in the pilot bearing hole. A lot of places put that in as part of clutch overhaul kit. If you don;t have it Google it for your tractor and I'm sure some Fleabay seller would have it for a nominal fee.once you have the clutch disk aligned then you would torque the flywheel bolts. I have heard people used a wooden dowel pin with success. you want the center of of the pilot bearing hole to line up with the center.
JC,
Below is a listing that shows the alignment tool but it pictures a single clutch. Are you sure you have a double clutch jobby?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-compact-tractor-model-1000-1900-clutch-kit-FS1014-/190332801686
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,238
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
and if nothing else.. the tractor has an alignment tool... the input shaft.. 
JC-jetro
Elite Member
yep, input shaft can be removed from the transmission housing to line up the disk. You'll need to put the input shaft in the same way you found it. Too much extra work in my opinion. Do you have a pic of your separated tractor and busted clutch? just curious
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,238
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
only reason I mention it is i always repalce input shaft seal when doing a clutch.. so.. you got to work on it anyway..
JC-jetro
Elite Member
only reason I mention it is i always repalce input shaft seal when doing a clutch.. so.. you got to work on it anyway..
Good point. Do you normally change the seal even if you don't have any seepage. I look at the inside of my tranny and it is bone dry, nothing coming out from crankshaft or transmission input shaft seal. I still got 90% of oem clutch disk thickness left after 30 years... fancy that !!
JC,
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,238
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Good point. Do you normally change the seal even if you don't have any seepage. I look at the inside of my tranny and it is bone dry, nothing coming out from crankshaft or transmission input shaft seal. I still got 90% of oem clutch disk thickness left after 30 years... fancy that !!
JC,
30yr old seal might start weeping tomorrow, and a split is still a few hours of work. since the seal is cheap, I do it as cheap insurance. If I had to resplit a machine after a short period for some reason i wouldn't again re-do the seal.. but if it's been a while ( decade? ) since i split something.. id' seal it )
soundguy