Oil & Fuel injection pump
- Thread starter achallie
- Start date
Your injection pump is comprised of 4 separate pumping elements. It is unlikely that three of the pumping element would fail simultaneously.
It is more likely that there is air trapped in the pump. Air in the pump will prohibit fuel reaching the pumping elements.
1. Open the bleed screw at the injection pump until a steady amount of fuel flows.
2. Tighten bleed screw.
3. Loosen all of the injector lines at the injectors.
4. Crank the engine until fuel flows at the loose injector lines.
5. Tighten injector lines.
Mike
It is more likely that there is air trapped in the pump. Air in the pump will prohibit fuel reaching the pumping elements.
1. Open the bleed screw at the injection pump until a steady amount of fuel flows.
2. Tighten bleed screw.
3. Loosen all of the injector lines at the injectors.
4. Crank the engine until fuel flows at the loose injector lines.
5. Tighten injector lines.
Mike
Mike,
I have already attempted to bleed the system, not saying that there is still not the possibility of air still in the system, but I was having other problems prior to removing the pump such as hard starting and extremely low power. I removed the fuel filter to find it filled with crud. After replacing the filter I was still having problems so I pulled the pump to clean and inspect.
I have already attempted to bleed the system, not saying that there is still not the possibility of air still in the system, but I was having other problems prior to removing the pump such as hard starting and extremely low power. I removed the fuel filter to find it filled with crud. After replacing the filter I was still having problems so I pulled the pump to clean and inspect.
I believe you removed your pump prematurely.
Your filter bowl filled with crud was most likely the cause of your lack of performance, but not the failure of the 3 remaining pump elements.
Sometimes it is necessary to use compressed air on the fuel line to get the pump primed. It is also necessary to loosen the injector lines when priming.
Mike
Your filter bowl filled with crud was most likely the cause of your lack of performance, but not the failure of the 3 remaining pump elements.
Sometimes it is necessary to use compressed air on the fuel line to get the pump primed. It is also necessary to loosen the injector lines when priming.
Mike
I entertained the idea of using compressed air to "force" the fuel into the pump. I just want to make sure I didn't miss something in re-assembling the pump. Better to ask around now than to spend a day trying to prime the pump only to find out something is out of alinement. Quite possibly someone has rebuilt one of these before and can say "you can slap these things back together any old way" or "you have to make sure the alignment mark on the rod is positioned in accordance with the lobe on the plunger assembly". I can't be certain if either is the case as I don't have any specifics on the pump itself.
Jerry/MT
Elite Member
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- Feb 2, 2008
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- New Holland TD95D, Ford 4610 & Kubota M4500
The injection pump is a precision metering system with a governor. It can't be "slapped to gether any ol' way" and be expected to work properly. If you took it apart without following detailed diasassembly/reassembly instructions, you are in the hurt locker. Best find someone who knows about them at a diesel repair shop or hope that someone like Dieseltech can help you.
Ok gang...problem solved. Thanks to a local injection pump rebuild shop, I was able to find out the information I needed. There is indeed a relationship between the hash marks on the geared rod and the other components. Each hash mark on the geared rod lines up with the center of each injection port. Once this is lined up, the geared hub is inserted into the cylinder. Note that on the bottom of the geared hub (the end opposite the gear itself) there is a very tiny indention. It almost looks like a flaw in the material and if you weren't looking for it you probably wouldn't pay it any attention. When inserting the geared hub, line the indention up with the hash marks on the geared rod and slide it in place so that the gear and geared rod engage. Next, insert the plunger. The plunger has a lobe on it which will lock it in place once its inserted into the geared hub. Note that on the lobe of the plunger there are some markings. numbers on one side, and something that looks similar to a target on the other side. When inserting the plunger, the side if the lobe with the "target" faces the geared rod. Other than these specifics, the pump goes together pretty much as the parts breakdown diagram which can be found on the New Holland web site. These are not difficult pumps to rebuild. Anyone with a little mechanical knowledge shouldn't have any problems. I can't advise anything on the cost of individual parts but the shop that gave me the specifics on the pump said they charge about $325 for a rebuild.