TC40D STICKY PTO LEVER

[ENTS]

And I mean sticky, to the point I have to take a bar underneath and tap on the linkage to get it to disengage.

HISTORY: Haven't used the pto for about 2 yrs. Now I'm pumping water onto garden via a roller pump. The linkage has been very difficult for the past two days. Today, could not disengage the pto. Had to use a shale bar (long enough to reach) to tap the linkage forward. Tried the lever several times but each time had to revert to the shale bar again. I will crawl under there tomorrow to get a closer look.

Any thoughts??

Hope all is well,



Fred

[Spicer]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/n...-pto-hard.html

Mike

[ENTS]

Thanks Mike. I figured there was a thread on this subject but didn't know what to use for the search. I'll hit that today once I can get into the garage (gonna be too hot to work outside today).

Hope all is well,

[ENTS]

Just came up from garage. Cleaned that linkage. Bushings and pin were a bit scored. PTO level now moves freely. HOWEVER, once connected back to shaft still can't move. I'm afraid it's the hyd. sw. That's coming off next.


later,

[ENTS]

O.K. Here's the story. Took that hyd. sw. off and pulled (EXTREMELY DIFFICULT) the spooler out. No scoring, no gunk, no nothing that was obvious. I cleaned the outside ends of the spooler with fine steel wool. Put the spooler back in and ran it around 360 degrees a good couple dozen times. Moves easier then before but still stiff. Buttoned up everything. It is workable now but still very stiff. I'm thinking that hyd. sw. may need to be replaced. Something is amiss inside there.

Has anyone pulled that hyd. sw.? If so, how difficult was it to turn that spooler? With the sw. in a vice and vice grips on spooler I could just turn the spooler. I felt it was still too tight.

Sure wish the cleaning the linkage would have cleared this up. But it's par for the course. Had to pull the seat and of course one of the four bolts holding it down spun. Had to cut it off with a hack saw. And of course, once I put the hyd. sw. back on the tractor I had to test it to make sure it was working. WHOOPS. Forgot to put that oil line back on. Good think I had some kitty litter. And I ask you, why oh why do they put those split pins (I call them roller pins) in the most awkward places (held the shaft to the spooler)?

Well, alls well that ends well. Hope this fix works for a few more years. I'll bet that hyd. sw. is BIG $$$$$$$.

[jinman]

There are two PTO control valves. One is a Kayaba and the other a Nan-Yoh. I don't think you can get the Kayaba anymore. The Nan-Yoh is a bargain at $685 and you can buy a seal and regulator valve repair kit for around $385. Save your pennies and nickels.

[ENTS]

I'm athinken that I'm ahopen that what I did will last. If it comes down to buying a new hyd. sw. I think I'll trade the tractor in.

Thanks for the heart attack Jim.


Hope all is well,

[LarryD]

I went over to help a friend replace an electrical switch on his boat today but he had to make an unexpected run for his job. So as I'm soldering the new switch his girlfriend tells me it was $200! Now this is just a momentary pushbuton to disable the auto pilot and I assume she's mistaken about the cost, there must have been more in the bag for that amount. But she swears that was the price.
I know marine parts are expensive but I told her this was a $10 weatherproof switch everyday of the week. I'll have to ask Dave when he gets back.

[ENTS]

With my situation i can't understand why this just can't be an electrical switch. Or a hard linkage to engage the pto clutch. I don't know what's inside that gear box so maybe both are out of the question. BUT, how were PTOs engaged in the good ole days?

hope all is well,

[jinman]

I know marine parts are expensive but I told her this was a $10 weatherproof switch everyday of the week. I'll have to ask Dave when he gets back.

I'm thinkin' ol' Dave may not be too happy with you, Larry. You just blew his cover on $190 worth of "happy money."