hfdff
New member
I thought I would post some pics of my powersteering reseal and how I did it on my 2001 TC33 w/FWD. Mine was leaking past the wiper ring on the galnd nut.(you can see the wiper ring(colored green) and galnd nut in the second pic).First off you need to get the right reseal kit for your powersteering cylinder, the TC33's w/FWD has two different cylinders it could come with, this will determine which seal kit you get. In order to get the right kit you need to get your axle sereal number, you will need to take off the tire and it will be stamped on the wheel hub it will be stamped inbetween lug holes(mine was located under the LH tire). Their is a big price difference between the two kits one is $50 and one is a $100 not sure why such the difference.
The fittings at the cylinder are not swivel so just trace the lines to the swivel fittings and disconnect from their. I then removed the pin at the stationary rod end and the nut at the piston rod end(if I remember right the bottom nut is 1" and the top nut is 1 1/16", you just need to take the bottom nut off).
Next you will need to take off what they call the gland nut. In the manual they say to remove the crimp away from the gland nut by using a chisil. I didn't have to do this it seemed that someone may have resealed it before. I used a hook spanner wrench to loosen and tighten the nut. If a spanner is not available you may be able to use a pipe wrench, just be careful as theirs not alot to grab on even with a spanner I had to be careful. Now you can remove the piston rod from the cylinder. It comes out pretty easy just have a bucket underneath to catch what ever fluid is left in the cylinder.
You will need to remove the nut so you can take the piston off the rod. I tried using a wrench to take the off while the the piston rod was in the vise but all it was doing was flexing the whole rod. I was afraid if I kept using the wrench I would snap off the rod end from the rod, so I used a impact gun to remove, the nut came off easy. The piston wouldn't come off b hand so I placed the piston rod in the vise. I placed the piston on top of the jaws and gently with a dead blow hammer tapped on the rod. Once you have the piston off you can remove the gland nut.
Now you can put the seals on. You just need to match what seals go where. 4 seals go on the gland nut and the piston takes 3 seals. The piston takes the 2 teflon split seals and one thicker o-ring. The gland nut uses the u-ring seal (green in color, this is in the bottom left in the seal kit pic), wiper ring (green in color inserted in a aluminum housing, bottom right in the seal kit pic), and the other two orings left. The uring seal is inside the galnd nut. In order to take out the wiper ring you need to remove the snap ring. Then you can remove the wiper ring by using something to punch it out from the bottom side.
Seal kit pic
Putting it together is just reverse on how took it apart. The nut to take the piston off has a torque of 26ft lbs. and the gland nut has a torque of 94 ft lbs. I didn't torque the gland nut I had no way of doing it I just tightened it as much as i could. They do make a spanner wrench that u can put on a rachet if you like to torque the galnd nut.
The only reason I could see that my cylinder was leaking was I found some pretty good nicks on the piston rod. I looked for some cuts in the uring seal and wiper ring and didn't see any I even looked at all the orings and didn't see anything. Heres a pic of the nicks I found
I tried to polish out the nicks as best as i could by placing the rod in a drill and using sandpaper and steel wool.
I reinstalled and leak checked it and no leaks so far . I hope this will help someone out one day if they have a powersteering cylinder thats leaking and how to reseal it. This would be cheaper than buying a new cylinder which can run $500. If theirs any questions just reply or pm me and i'll try to answer them the best I can.
The fittings at the cylinder are not swivel so just trace the lines to the swivel fittings and disconnect from their. I then removed the pin at the stationary rod end and the nut at the piston rod end(if I remember right the bottom nut is 1" and the top nut is 1 1/16", you just need to take the bottom nut off).
Next you will need to take off what they call the gland nut. In the manual they say to remove the crimp away from the gland nut by using a chisil. I didn't have to do this it seemed that someone may have resealed it before. I used a hook spanner wrench to loosen and tighten the nut. If a spanner is not available you may be able to use a pipe wrench, just be careful as theirs not alot to grab on even with a spanner I had to be careful. Now you can remove the piston rod from the cylinder. It comes out pretty easy just have a bucket underneath to catch what ever fluid is left in the cylinder.
You will need to remove the nut so you can take the piston off the rod. I tried using a wrench to take the off while the the piston rod was in the vise but all it was doing was flexing the whole rod. I was afraid if I kept using the wrench I would snap off the rod end from the rod, so I used a impact gun to remove, the nut came off easy. The piston wouldn't come off b hand so I placed the piston rod in the vise. I placed the piston on top of the jaws and gently with a dead blow hammer tapped on the rod. Once you have the piston off you can remove the gland nut.
Now you can put the seals on. You just need to match what seals go where. 4 seals go on the gland nut and the piston takes 3 seals. The piston takes the 2 teflon split seals and one thicker o-ring. The gland nut uses the u-ring seal (green in color, this is in the bottom left in the seal kit pic), wiper ring (green in color inserted in a aluminum housing, bottom right in the seal kit pic), and the other two orings left. The uring seal is inside the galnd nut. In order to take out the wiper ring you need to remove the snap ring. Then you can remove the wiper ring by using something to punch it out from the bottom side.
Seal kit pic
Putting it together is just reverse on how took it apart. The nut to take the piston off has a torque of 26ft lbs. and the gland nut has a torque of 94 ft lbs. I didn't torque the gland nut I had no way of doing it I just tightened it as much as i could. They do make a spanner wrench that u can put on a rachet if you like to torque the galnd nut.
The only reason I could see that my cylinder was leaking was I found some pretty good nicks on the piston rod. I looked for some cuts in the uring seal and wiper ring and didn't see any I even looked at all the orings and didn't see anything. Heres a pic of the nicks I found
I tried to polish out the nicks as best as i could by placing the rod in a drill and using sandpaper and steel wool.
I reinstalled and leak checked it and no leaks so far . I hope this will help someone out one day if they have a powersteering cylinder thats leaking and how to reseal it. This would be cheaper than buying a new cylinder which can run $500. If theirs any questions just reply or pm me and i'll try to answer them the best I can.