Couple of questions

[hfdff]

I have a couple of questions.
1st question: Is the flow control valve that allows you to control how fast you raise or lower your 3pt an option? I was under the impression that it was standard. I saw that their is a kit you can buy. The reason I'm asking is the tractor I bought used doesn't have the valve.

2nd question: Can buy this part for the tie rod or know where I can get it? Its the metal wire that goes around the rubber boot to keep the grease in. I looked on New Hollands online parts catalog and didn't see it just saw the tie rod.


Thanks for the replies

 

[jinman]

On the non-deluxe class II tractors, the drop speed knob seems to be optional as you discovered. It DOES NOT control raise speed. That valve only controls how fast the 3PH goes down. It has no effect whatsoever on 3PH raise speed.

I'm not sure about your grease boot retainer wire. It seems you could buy a roll of safety wire and just make your own. Safety wire is very strong and you could easily duplicate the grip of that wire shown. It's designed for use with safety wire pliers that twist the wire, but for the boot, you cold probably use needle nose pliers or even vise-grips.

 

[DieselMonk]

My TC55DA has a spring like looking grease retainer in there. The Boomer 1030's are not greasable.
On my Case 580 SMII I used a zip tie to hold on a boot. Works fine.

 

[hfdff]

Thanks for the replies jinman and DieselMonk. Raising the 3ph is smoother than lowering it, is that normal? I guess I can buy the kit at a later time if I feel I need it. As for the boot I guess I'll have to decide wether to use the safety wire or zip tie.

 

[mostly_gas]

My money is on the zip tie to be easier on the rubber if you can get it tight enough

 

[k0ua]

My money is on the zip tie to be easier on the rubber if you can get it tight enough

A couple of notes on zipties.. They are not all created equal. There are zipties that are all Nylon including the "tooth" and there are zipties, most notably the Tiewrap brand that have a small stainless steel insert for the "tooth" part. They are superior to the all Nylon ones. They can be cinched tighter and will hold more securely under these heavy loads. Now lets talk about color of these zipties or Tiewraps. Black is better if exposed to sunlight. The lamp black in the Nylon mix will block the Ultraviolet rays of the sun, and these typwraps will last a very long time. Natural color Nylon tiewraps/zipties will degrade in sunlight within a year or two, and become brittle and break. Safety wire is impervious to sunlight There you go, free information, worth every penny that you paid for it

STAINLESS TOOTH TIE WRAP PAGE


James K0UA

 

[jinman]

Thanks for the replies jinman and DieselMonk. Raising the 3ph is smoother than lowering it, is that normal? I guess I can buy the kit at a later time if I feel I need it. As for the boot I guess I'll have to decide wether to use the safety wire or zip tie.

I don't have any experience with the grease boots, so by all means go with the suggestions of these folks who have been there and done that. I was just suggesting safety wire since it is very close to what you showed in your photo. It would seem that a ziptie or wired ziptie would be the ideal choice.

I think your lift is smoother than the lowering because when lifting, you have to build up pressure to the point the load lifts and then pump fluid into the lift cylinder as the load comes up. When you lower the 3PH, it is just dumping the lift cylinder fluid to the reservoir. What you described makes perfect sense for a tractor without the drop speed adjustment valve/knob. I was really surprised to find that the non-deluxe Class II tractors like the TC29 and TC33 don't have that valve. All Class III tractors have the valve whether they are the deluxe or standard models.

 

[DieselMonk]

always buy the Tiewrap black ones with the metal piece as tooth. Every thing else is junk in that department.

 

[sparc]

always buy the Tiewrap black ones with the metal piece as tooth. Every thing else is junk in that department.

Not nesessarily. Depends on the intended use and the conditions its used under. Some applications where I have used zip-ties do not allow the Ty-Rap brand or similar design zip-ties specifically because of the metal 'tooth'. I agree they hold the best, but that does not mean the rest are junk.

 

[DieselMonk]

Not nesessarily. Depends on the intended use and the conditions its used under. Some applications where I have used zip-ties do not allow the Ty-Rap brand or similar design zip-ties specifically because of the metal 'tooth'. I agree they hold the best, but that does not mean the rest are junk.

I use ty-rap to hold feed lines on various towers. If the zip ties aren't black and uv treated, they last maybe 18 month. The ty-rap brand last nearly forever. I have some up my tower for 10 years and they are still strong.

Since tractors are mostly stored outside, not inside, the ty-rap get's my bet. Not that I am a dealer for ty-rap, I just use tons of them.